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No power to burner until after dial setting 3 reached and would not reach highest setting.
1. Remove all four control knobs. 2. Unscrew all four plastic "nuts" found under each knob holding front panel to stove. 3. Lift front panel off. 4. Removed all Phillips screws holding metal shield to which control switches are fastened. 5. Lift entire assembly up. 6. Remove two screws holding bad switch to metal shield. 7. BEFORE REMOVING ANY WIRES LABEL EACH WIRE ACCORDING TO CODE EMBOSSED ON BACK OF BAD SWITCH. These will be H1, H2, L1, L2 and P. They are not in the same place on the new switch as they are on the old one. The reason for labeling is that in case you make a mistake you have this back-up to go by. Also to double check your finished job.If just one wire is connected to the wrong terminal a disaster will happen. 8. Remove each wire, one at a time from the old switch and connect it to the correct terminal on the new switch as indicated by the codes on the back of the new switch. When done double check to be certain the labels on each wire match the code for the connected terminal. 9. Slide furnished bushing onto the new switch. 10. Insert new switch through the back of the metal shield and attach with the supplied screws. The old screws were too short in my case so be certain to use the ones supplied with the new switch. 11. Re-attach the shield assembly to the stove. 12. Install the front panel back over the switch stems. 13. Secure the front panel with the four plastic nuts. 14. Install the control knobs. 15. Test the new switch.
Broil worked on the stove, however in bake mode, the oven did not make temperature. Turned off the stove, unscrewed and inspected coil. I noted there was a section of the coil that had a "corroded" appearance. (it was evidence of the coil being burned out). Checked with a ($9.00) voltmeter, showed infinite resistance. Found the original envelop for the stove taped to the back of the oven from 1973. It has wiring diagram with schematic and noted the coil was 3000 W, 19 ohms.
Bottom Line found comparable replacement online and tested resistance, measure dimensions of the old coil, matched with Watt rating, replaced, tested installed and works great, Oven has been in use for a couple weeks now. New stove would have been around $500.00. Not to mention some remodel work, as the house is old and stove is a built in.
Coil was $60.00 and should buy the time I need until I remodel the entire kitchen.
Took back off the oven unscrewed the time control scaped old one off and put new one on. Than I put it back together again. What a great place to shop!!!
my mother blew up the old element. she wanted to tie it for 8 minutes but set it to 800 deg. f. lol:)
searched on the computer for the name and part number that was damaged, found that it was the bake element so i ordered it with part select.com. when it arriver three days later (as expected) i disconnected the gas and electric to the range and simply removed the old element with a phillips screw driver. installed the new element, hooked the gas and electric back up and began cooking again...
While removing burned out light bulb, the glass cover fell to the floor of the oven and broke!!
Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)
Pulled out stove, took side panel off on switch side of oven, unplugged old switch, pulled the old switch out the front of the oven, put in new switch and plugged it in. Then put oven back together and pushed it back into space. (Make sure to turn oven off at breaker box before you make repair) you could easily get shocked if you don’t.
With no install instructions (NOT good for diy-ers), looked through reviews and watched video for help. Replacement part - not same as original. Had to use magnifying glass to id the terminals / take a picture before disassembly. reassembled - found out terminals are different & black wire is too short. Took off element - rotated the clips one number counter clockwise, reassembled - removed black wire from harness for extra reach. Hooked up, lowered top for test. power on - everything OK. Power off - complete assembly. Power on - test. Seems to be good. When I called customer service for assistance because there was no instruction, they told me I should contact a local appliance repair person. (big joke).
Simply took oven out of wall, removed back plate, unplugged old sensor, went in the front and unscrewed old sensor, put in new sensor, went in back and plugged in new sensor, put on back plate, push oven in wall. Turn on power
1. Turn off power to the electric oven 2. Removed the two screws in the top side of the oven that hold it into the cabinet. 3. Made a support to set the oven on once you remove it from the wall. Or set it on the floor. You will need help this is not a one person job. 4. Used a Philips head screw drive removed the back of the oven panel. I did not have to remove the whole thing just took out half the screws and the electrical plug for the temperature sensor is right on the edge. 5. Unplugged sensor 6. Took out the two screw on the inside of the oven that holds the thermal sensor in place. Pulled it out the front. 7. Side the new thermal sensor in place replace the screws. 8. Pull the plug out and plug it back in. Check and push the insulation back in place where the thermal sensor. 9. Replace the back and replace the screws. 10. Slide oven back into the wall. 11. Replace the two screws that hold the oven in place in the frame. 12. Turn power back on Check the temperature
Drawings on web site somewhat hard to read, resulting in more disassembly than actually necessary. Turns out, simply removing the threaded plastic securing rings around the bases of the controls frees up the faceplate, and allows access to the phillips screws that hold down the bracket. Then it's a simple matter to replace the control unit by swapping out the leads one at a time from old to new. Be careful when re-attaching those plastic securing rings, they can cross-thread pretty easily.
Dual infinite range switch on left front burner of glass top range would stay on full high no matter what setting was selected on the burner knob.
Remove 4 knobs from front of stove.
Remove plastic nuts that are directly underneath oven knobs. Loosen with plyers and unscrew.
Remove front cover.
Remove 8 screws holding down electrical panel. Remove panel. Remove 2 screws holding switch into place. Transfers wires from old switch to new switch so you hook them up correctly. Then reinstall in reverse order. Job complete in 15 minutes.