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Cord was not tightened enough by delivery crew.
PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.
Most of the job is simple fastener mechanics. Use a nut driver or Phillips screwdriver. Remove rear panel.
Pull out control knob. If it is stuck, wrap a small rag around the back of it and pull the rag steadily.
Carefully match marked terminals on the replacement switch with those on original. Switch terminals may not be in the same location. Replace wires one for one, one at a time.
Carefully select the correct knob filler for the switch post. Several are supplied. Proceed with logic and measure the shaft length and the filler length and type to match.
Burner would consistantly go to high no matter where the dial was positioned.
First I unplugged the stove.Removed the upper control panel back (10 phillips screws). Removed the plastic dial( pulls straight off). Removed the 2 screws behind the dial that is holding the switch in the control panel. Took one wire at a time off the old switch and put them on the new switch according to each electrical spade marking. L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. Installed the new switch in the control panel securing it with the 2 screws. Installed the dial, installed the upper back panel using the old screws. Plugged the stove back in and tested it. Note: My new switches shaft was 1/8 of an inch longer so it does put the dial a little further away from the control panel. Wife says: It's OK, don't worry about it.
Video makes it look easy. Kenmore refrigerator does not have "groove" along the right hand side of switch that allows for pushing down on release. Used a thin screwdriver to get under to push while holding switch edge with pliers. Kept slipping. Tape sides to avoid scratching inside of refrigerator.
First of all I removed the top panel then removed the switch. I then took pictures of the switch & drew a sketch with all the info. Then I went to your web site, matched up the switch & ordered. When the switch arrived I went thru the above replacing the bad switch.
was more of a job of splicing wires together than anything else. Loved the heat shrink electrical tubing to put over the wires for insulation. used a hair dryer. must buy more of that amazing stuff
I simply removed the old drip pans and inserted the new ones which matched and fit perfectly. I'm glad I found you on line. Your service was fast and the whole transaction was easy!! Thanks.
Block terminal burnt out, hot plate not working, needed to replace the terminal block
This should take approx 15-30 mins. It took me 1.5 hours as I pushed the terminals into the wrong end of the block. It's very difficult to get them out when you do that... However, there are no easy instructions on the block or in the instructions to tell you which end to push the terminals into!!! So, with a 50:50 chance of getting it right, I got it wrong. I think most people would need to buy a new part if they do this. It would be very much easier if the block, had an arrow that simply said IN here so that this type of simple mistake is less easy to do... If you get that right, the fix is quite and straight forward. Good luck.
The smaller element of a dual element stove would not heat up.
Unplug the unit or turn off power at the electrical panel!!!! I removed the 2 screws that hold the top surface of the stove down. On my range, these are located in the front, under the the top surface. You have to open the oven door to remove them. I propped the top up with a couple of 10 inch pieces of 1 x 2 then removed the screws on each end of the bracket that holds the elements in place. I used a 1/4 inch nut driver for these. With needle nose pliers, I removed the 3 retaining clips from the bracket and removed them from the element with a screwdriver and transferred them to the new heating element. The holes around the outside of the element are numbered so it's easy to know where they go. Laying the new element next to the old one, I moved each paddle-type electrical connection one at a time to the corresponding place on the new one. Put the retaining clips back in the slots. Screw the mounting bracket back in. Put the top down and secure it with screws. Very easy repair.
The left front burner would not turn off, and the switch was sparking
First I unplugged the stove, and removed the upper-back panel. Then I pulled off the control knob. Then I removed the two screws holding the switch to the stove. Then one-by-one I removed the wires from the old switch and connected them to the corresponding tabs on the new switch. Then, using the knob adapter supplied with the new switch, I figured out how much of the knob shaft I had to remove from the new switch to position the knob the correct distance from the face of the stove. Then I tested the switch with a voltmeter as instructed, and then I hooked up the last wire. Partselect.com is an awsome website!!! I was able to review comments form other do-it-yourselfers that had similar problems. Then I looked up the Partselect schematic drawings of my stove and was easily able to find and order the part I needed. The part arrived at my house within a couple of days and I had the stove fixed in no time.
Burner would stay on high heat only. Repairman wanted $278.00 to fix...I bought the switch for under $30.00 delivered and spent 10 minutes fixing it myself.
Turned power off to the stove at breaker box. Pulled the 4 plastic knobs off of the stove. Unscrewed the 4 round parts that are directly under each knob to gain access to the switches. Took the two small phillips screws out holding the bad switch. Installed the wires from the bad switch to the new switch and then reinstalled everything in reverse order. I saved over $200.00 by doing this repair myself with only two screwdrivers.
Burner not cycling Went to Hight heat even at low settings
Disconnected power,(Breaker OFF}
Followed directions as directed by instructions. Removed mounting screws for burner control Switch panel. Disconnected wire leads to switch. Replaced Switch and reassembled. All directions were well established. Your Quick delivery of the Switch was next day delivery. Down time approximately 30 minutes in time for wife to fix dinner. Thanks for your help!
Pulled the heating elements out took the bowels out that didn’t fit, threw them away and replaced them with the perfectly fitting bowels from this site and replaced the heating elements.