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Leak in water filter supply line
I found a crack in the pex line from the valve up the back of the refrigerator to the water filter. I could not find the correct 5/16" size line locally to replace it. A guy in plumbing at Home Depot said he always repaired them by cutting out the crack and finding a piece of clear vinyl line that would fit tightly over the cracked pex to splice in a fix with hose clamps. I did that and it was a really bad idea. The line was obviously fatigued and failing because it just cracked further up and leaked again. I then looked up and ordered the correct line (actually both the supply and return since they were available). Installing the new lines was a breeze. The pex connectors are simple to disconnect and reconnect. Wish I had done that to start with. I looked for a youtube video for the proper replacement steps but all I found was a video of a guy who cut out a crack and stuck a pex connector in to replace the cracked section. By doing that he pulled slack from the valve end of the line which didn't exist and cracked the line again. I don't know why anyone would mess with patching one of these lines. The correct parts are available, cut to the right length, and removing and replacing them at the valve and the filter is dead simple.
Remove door seal and cam shaft (one piece). Remove broken cam by removing Philips head screw. Replace broken cam with new cam and reassemble. The actual repair took about 15 minutes however the majority of time was spent figuring out that the door seal and cam shaft had to be removed, no tools required.
Uncoupled the old connector, replaced with new connector and attached supply line. Repair easy with right part, prior to ordering the right part I had tried a compression fitting and it still leaked. U-tube and others demonstrating repair assured me I was on the right path.
Replaces door switches - removed screw from door hinge cover, lifted cover and removed switch. Plugged in new switch and reversed process. Removed screws from light bracket. Attached new frame to slots in roof and used screws to attach. Clipped on light cover.
door mounted cold water tank was leaking at seam of polyethylene tank.
The part labeled as water tank was not pictured on web site, and when it arrived it was a large coil of plastic tubing wire-tied in an oval shape,not a blown p/e tank as original.The oval of tubing would not fit into the door compartment, because of the bulk of the actuating solenoid. No instructions were included. It was necessary to hacksaw the steel solenoid mounting bracket off the solenoid, then contort the solenoid into the compartment to get all parts inside the cover. new connectors had to be purchased, because the the tank/tubing coil was 1/4" od, while the original tank had 5/16"od connections.
Simply used a flat head screwdriver to get the first few inches of the gasket out of its track and after that just pulled it by hand. New gasket slipped over the door, lined up the corner and pressed into in the track. Checked to see that it was snug all over and we were done. 5 minutes at the very most. Never would have noticed this. Took all the bins out of the freezer to give it a good cleaning and noticed the torn piece hanging. Our refrigerator runs much less often. Expect to see a difference in our electric bill!
I removed the old lamp cover and case. Discovered that the last repair person had not re installed it correctly so the case had melted from the bulbs. I Removed the screws that was supposed to hold it up, assembled the case and cover, inserted the screws and anchored them in where they belong. Problem solved!
