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icemaker stopped working
This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water dispenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.
Pulled fridge away from wall, unplug electrical connection, open fridge door, use knife to prize out door switch, pull off and replace switch from electrical wiring.
Very simple Removed wire rack Removed 3 phillips head screws, requires large phillips screw driver Removed old rail guide Installed new rail guide and screwed back in place Reinstalled rack
Pull off the grill cover and remove the 2 screws from the old part and simply screw in the new part. Don’t lose the screws there are no new ones with the new part. Replace cover.
Like the customer who put a review on your site before me, I was unable to complete the repair because the inlet tube did not fit my refrigerator. I was hoping to speak to someone regarding this issue.
Unplugged the refrigerator, Taped around the edges of switch as I had read to prevent possible scratches, used very thin flathead screwdriver to pry out old switch, unplugged old switch, plugged in new switch, put it back in opening, plugged fridge back in, and I had beautiful light! Hardest part was unplugging the refrigerator!
Right rail drawer guide plastic was broken in rear
1st, emptied top freezer basket, used drill to remove 3 mounting screws, held new rail guide in place, installed same screws into freezer wall. Hand tightened with hand screwdriver to avoid over torquing with drill.
Just slid out the broken drawer and slid in the new one. The web site was very user friendly and my drawer arrive in only a few days. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!
Refrigerator light would not reliably turn on when the door was opened.
Switched the refrigerator circuit breaker to off. Put tape around the switch to prevent scratches. Wedged the putty knife into the right side of the switch and pried up.the switch and connector popped out. Removed the connector from the old switch and connected it to the socket in the new switch. Stuffed the new switch and connector back into its home. Switched on the circuit breaker. Now we have light in the refrigerator with every opening!
Removed broken door basket and snap in replacement. The ordering process was quick and effective and shipped quick. Perfect replacement part. The do great work
After noting frost in freezer Right rail started to jam. Noted freezer door was closing crooked. Rail replacement resolved issue. It had been frosting up for some time so Rail must have been broken for a while. Check door seals they were not closing flush.