Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Lights didn't come on when door was opened
I have moderate to good mechanical skills, but getting the old switch out was a sizeable challenge. Since this switch suffered some damage during extraction, I was lucky to have ordered a new one to replace it. Reinstall took approximately 90 seconds. PartSelect saved me an expensive service call.
Replace with new switch. this is the third switch i have replaced in 10 years. the only part, besides a light bulb, that has gone bad. obviously this is a problem with this model for Kenmore, or just poor switch design.
Door switch would not turn on interior refrigerator light.
I had previously watched a YouTube video (do this first!!) on a similar Kenmore model so I knew what to look out for: (1) turned off power, (2) took thin putty knife to slip under outer lip of switch (most screwdrivers are too thick), (3) wiggled switch at front end to release the tab, (4) unplugged from the socket, (5) plugged in new switch, (6) popped new switch back into door, (7) turned on power. Voila !! Super easy. I couldn't believe it.
the light did not work when door was opened. At first it would flicker then off completely.
My son just pried out the old switch with a screw driver snapped out the old one and snapped in the new one. Pretty sure even I could have done this. Very quick and easy. Thanks. :-)
Cover the putty knife with tape so you do not scratch the side wall where the switch is located. Slide the knife under the edge of the switch and push in a bit towards the switch and slightly twist to pop the switch out of its hole. Disconnect the wires from the switch and simply plug in the new switch. Push wiring back into the hole and careful push the switch into the hole until it snaps into place.
Used a screwdriver to remove covers. Used a blow dryer to defrost coil in freezer. Cut zip tie and removed old controller assembly. Inserted new controller assembly and secured with zip tie. It took 24 hours for the fridge to cool completely. Now it works fine.
Ice maker not working but making a sound when turned on (buzzing). Water valve not functioning when tested with a multitester (multimeter).
I removed the old water valve, disconnected the water tube going in and tube going out to the back of the refrigerator. New water valve bracket different than the previous one which resulted in my having to modify it to fit. Not an easy task as it was preformed metal. Once hooked up, water turned on, and ice maker turned on, the sound I'm getting now is clunking and not making ice. My debate is whether or not to purchase a new ice maker or revert to the tried and true method with ice trays which work every time.
Refrigerator light had a short in it and would randomly work
Unplugged the fridge. Used a screwdriver to loosen the switch. Easy to disconnect from fridge and just plugged the new switch in. Popped right back into the side of the fridge and worked perfectly.
Pulled the fridge out of its space. Removed a metal shield which covered the bottom 12" of the fridge with a Philips head screw driver. The water valve is on your right. turned off the water to the supply line. Removed the supply line using an adjustable wrench. Removed the water line gong from the pump into the fridge. It is held on with a "C" clip which can be pulled off with needle-nose pliers. Removed the old pump, held with one Philips head screw. Then installed the new pump, reconnected the lines, replaced the metal shield and turned the water back on. Vacuumed the fridge and its space before cleaning up. The ice-maker now works perfectly.
Caution removing plastic molding with putty knife or flat bar . Roll the gasket toward the inside of frig ,push old holder up carefully out of gasket. Half way out tilt holder back to avoid ceiling . Save old holder for template ,remove screw from bottom,push out rod ,caution clip is spring loaded, install in new holder in reverse,slide back into gasket(carefully)!!replace molding
