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replaced the ice maker with the new assembly kit, the longest time taken was to fit back the pull out door .. had to align the slots correctly and check that it slid back and forth easily.
I popped the old switch out of place and then disconnected the wire harness from the switch with a pair of needle nose pliers. I then inserted the harness into the new switch and popped the switch into place. Super easy and fast.
light was not going on sometimes, or needed wiggling to work
purchased a new switch. The old switch just needed to be lightly pried out with a screw driver, then it was simple to unplug the old, and plug in the new. Voila! Light !
Remove door seal and cam shaft (one piece). Remove broken cam by removing Philips head screw. Replace broken cam with new cam and reassemble. The actual repair took about 15 minutes however the majority of time was spent figuring out that the door seal and cam shaft had to be removed, no tools required.
Uncoupled the old connector, replaced with new connector and attached supply line. Repair easy with right part, prior to ordering the right part I had tried a compression fitting and it still leaked. U-tube and others demonstrating repair assured me I was on the right path.
I found a crack in the pex line from the valve up the back of the refrigerator to the water filter. I could not find the correct 5/16" size line locally to replace it. A guy in plumbing at Home Depot said he always repaired them by cutting out the crack and finding a piece of clear vinyl line that would fit tightly over the cracked pex to splice in a fix with hose clamps. I did that and it was a really bad idea. The line was obviously fatigued and failing because it just cracked further up and leaked again. I then looked up and ordered the correct line (actually both the supply and return since they were available). Installing the new lines was a breeze. The pex connectors are simple to disconnect and reconnect. Wish I had done that to start with. I looked for a youtube video for the proper replacement steps but all I found was a video of a guy who cut out a crack and stuck a pex connector in to replace the cracked section. By doing that he pulled slack from the valve end of the line which didn't exist and cracked the line again. I don't know why anyone would mess with patching one of these lines. The correct parts are available, cut to the right length, and removing and replacing them at the valve and the filter is dead simple.
Tape off the light button so door alarm does not go off. Take off the clear light shield and remove the light bulbs. Be careful, bulbs may still be HOT!! With Phillips head screw driver unscrew the light plate assy. Drop it down in a comfortable position. Disconnect the connector, unscrew the thermal sensor and remove light assy. Install new light assy into light plate assy. There is no thermal senor in the new assy. Snap light plate assy back into place and install the two screws previously taken out. Install bulbs and clear cover. Remove tape from light door switches and you are done. Lights should go on and off when door buttons are pushed in and out.
I removed the old lamp cover and case. Discovered that the last repair person had not re installed it correctly so the case had melted from the bulbs. I Removed the screws that was supposed to hold it up, assembled the case and cover, inserted the screws and anchored them in where they belong. Problem solved!
Each time we've had to move we have to remove the doors from the fridge to get it thru the front door.since water and ice run thru the freezer door there are 2 tubes that connect at the bottom of the freezer door that aren't meant to be separated very often if ever.it's easier to cut the tubing on b
With alot of elbow grease and a pair of pliars we managed to get the old connector off wo cuttig the tubing as the tubing was getting to short from being cut once to many times & there was no more play in the length.Original connector was a different color and shapped slightly different than the new one so was a bit concerned that I had ordered the wrong part but it went one very easily & did not leak. We even managed to remove it again just to see if it was possible wo cutting again. it came off with no trouble.I would say the replacement part was a better fit than the original simply because we could remove it easily wo having to cut the tube!