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The middle tub would not come out
Sprayed wd40 - limescale - boiling water , NOTHING WORKED after half an hour reapeted spraying and pulling the tub and shaking it back and forth - still nothing Finally I replaced the center nut loosely than putting a piece of wood on top of it and with me holding the tub slightly high - my wife than whacked it hard several times , I also was turning the tub every whack When it came out it was full of rust and grime - it would have never come out without what we did Replacing the the rubber washer was easy - machine works and no more leaking- thank you for your video which really helped to start the job
washer wouldn't spin with load, then not at all with rapid clicking sound
Clutch was noticibly worn compared to new part. Direct drive flange had broken, this part should be steel. found a you tube video that was simple to follow. no problems
Lid Switch Case was Broken and would not hold screws. Not draining or spinning.
I watched a youtube video made by the site on how to replace the lid switch assembly. It showed you exactly how to do this repair. Without watching the video, it would probably have stumped me. After watching the video a couple of times, it was really pretty easy to do. The timer on our washer also needed replacing. I followed the instructions by Joe from Covington, GA. That repair was really easy. Thanks, Joe, for the easy to follow, complete instructions.
the washing machine would pump the water out, but the agitator would not spin, and it was making noise.
The video that was shown about how to perform the repair was spot on. I wasn't sure exactly what part I needed. I took the advise from you stating that these symptoms I described usually meant that the part I ordered was the correct repair In 65% of the cases. I was delighted to see that when I followed the instruction video, and the motor was removed, there was my coupling, In several pieces. At that point I knew that I ordered the correct parts. Thank You, Mario for Eastchester, NY.
I removed the cabinet and agitator, layed the machine on it's back, removed the pump, motor and gearcase. I found a way to prop the gearcase up so it rested level, removed the cover, drained the old oil. I removed all internal parts, disassembled them and cleaned them. I reassembled the gearcase using the new uetral drain assembly, and replaced the oil. I made sure the brake assembly was pushed into position and then put the gearcase, motor and pump back in. I sttod the machine up, put the cabinet back on and tested the machine. It still did not spin, so it wasn't the coupler, clutch or nuetral drain assembly.
Direct drive, no belt. Motor sounds like it's spinning but the agitator is not. Bought the coupling (that goes between the motor and the transmission) and replaced it in less than 15 minutes. Two screws and two clips to open the cover. Two clips to move the water pump out of the way. Two screws and two clips to take out the motor. Replace the coupling and reverse the steps.
Disconnect power & water then drain hoses. We flipped the washer on it's side to gain access to the bottom. There was no need to take off the back panel. Keep a 5 gallon bucket and a few rags handy for the extra water in the pump line. Disconnected the wiring harness. Removed the brackets holding the motor. It's a little tight on the back bracket. It has a 1/4" hex nut on the back side, so I used a 1/4" drive socket (see: small). Removed the bolts holding the gear case (this makes it a lot easier). Disconnected the pump hose and rotated the motor & gear box and pulled forward. This gives you access to the coupling. Remove the broken part. Clean the area for debris. NOTE: each part of the coupling has 3 fingers (these are what breaks off), so check to make sure you get all broken parts. Insert the new coupling. It has 3 parts; the plastic fittings go on tight and need to be snug to the shaft. Use a screwdriver handle on the center and tap down with a small hammer. Spray silicone on the rubber coupler to allow a little better slide. Reverse the process. Line the gear box and motor up and push back into the tub assembly. We used 2 people to do this. It's easier to have someone stand over it and hold / rotate the gear box while the other one can align the motor & bolt everything back on. It took us an hour, however, if you were doing a couple you could get it down to 30 min. flat. Go wash your clothes!
Washer would stop mid-cycle - Lid switch was broken.
This website was such a big help. I just followed the directions of the other prople who answered. I was able to do this even though I am not that mechanically inclined. The toughest part was removing the two metal clips that hold the back to the top. I needed a screwdriver to lift these out, but after this the repair was a simple matter of following the old switch line along the inside top of the washer body, removing the ground wire (a bit tricky because you have to lean the unit foward while trying to remove a screw that hangs down at the same time). and screwing in the new unit. Thanks to everyone who posted comments before. You were real life savers (and saved me hundreds of dollars in repair costs or replacement fees!!!!!!!). Thanks again!
Remove metal cover; remove pump, remove motor, remove tub spin assembly; remove transmission. Remove clutch be removing retaining ring. Installation was reverse. No problems, part worked like champ.
Note: Called Sears to see if I could get the part locally. Turns our I had to call an 800 number. Lady said that the part was not carried and would have to be shipped from warehouse. Tried to sell me some discharge hoses. Then said the part would cost $65 before S&H. Told her I didn't want to spend that much, she asked how much I wanted to spend and seemed upset when I told her your price. She didn't comp it, just said that theirs was an official part from Sears, blah, blah, blah. Anyway, thanks for the great service!
Woulkd have taken alot less time had I not taken off the control board, back...etc. Laying the unit on its back is perfect. Took it out into the garage when I could have done it in the laundry rooom with very little water loss. 1. Removed all hoses connected to top of motor. This was not very easy since the spring clamps had been in the same place for 20+ years. Also removed all wire harness connected to and from the motor. 2. Removed metal clamps from top of motor unit, and removed the plastic "valve". 3. Removed screws holding in clamps on each side of the motor used to hold motor on motor plate. Removed motor. Trick is to make sure that the back clamp stays in place...makes it a little easier when you go to re install. 4. Cleaned out around agitator shaft, and fitted one side of the coupling and the neoprene type joiner on to the agitator shaft. 5. Fitted other side of coupling on to motor...This is where it got a little tough......and then placed motor unit on the motor plate, making sure to line up teeth to neoprene joiner. 6. Replaced clamps on each side of the motor and screwed in nuts holding them in place. 7. Replaced plastic "valve" and the clamps that hold it in placed...back one is a little tough. 8. Reattached hoses to "valve" and hooked all wire harness back into place. 9.Tested perfect...little burning smell on first spin....but works great now!!
unpluged the washer. removed the two screws on console. unpluged the lid switch connector and seperated it from the cabinet.removed the body clips. removed the washer cabinet. removed the two screws holding the lid switch. removed the two cable or wire clips. checked new part against the old. put the two screws mounting the lid switch back in. put the two cable clamps back securing the lid switch wires. put the cabinet on.reconnected the lid swich wire connector to the cabinet.pluged in the lid swich to connector.put the body clamps back in place.put the two screws holding the console back in. plug washer back in to main power. stared the washer and ran it through a cycle testing the lid switch. worked great. Thanks
Removed the outside body of washer. Used 1/2 plywood between drum and wear pads to make space to pry out pads with screwdriver. Replaced suspension springs and tub spring (use waterproof grease on end of springs. Put washer back together and tested. Problem solved washer not walking all over floor anymore. Thanks for you help.
I did a Google search for the model number and found this site, PartSelect.com. Based on the diagrams on the site and what I could see underneath the washer, it was clear that the motor coupling was now gone and the shattered pieces of it were all over the floor. So I ordered a new coupling and waited for it to arrive, it was shipped in just a few days. Once I had the new coupling all I had to do was remove a couple of brackets holding the pump onto the motor, and the motor onto the gearbox; unplug the electrical terminals and lift the motor out. There are two halves to the coupling, one sits on the shaft of the gearbox and the other on the shaft of the motor. Both of these are seated into a rubber boot that is also a part of the coupling. Once the motor is sitting on the gearbox with all the coupling parts seated in place, just plug everything back in and replace the brackets. You will need a 1/4 socket to remove/replace the motor brackets. Also, it should be noted that you will want to unhook everything that is hooked to the wall (hoses, power cord) but it assumed you've already done this if you have access the the underneath of the washer.
