687AJ-TKSAW Admiral Range - Instructions

I removed the back of the range to disconnect the wires to the igniter. Then I removed the two screws holding the igniter, screwed the new one in and reconnected the wires in back.
I was really pleased how easy it was to find the part on the website and how quickly the part came. The whole job was a snap. Thanks!

Same as the other entries in this section.
The only thing I would add is a hint for removing the broiler igniter. As you can see from the oven igniter, the wires connect with a plug. For the top igniter, the broiler, the plug goes through the insulation and then through a hole in the rear panel of the oven. So, when you pull on it, you will think it is stuck or the wire is pulled taut. That is because the plug hangs up on the rear panel.
Stick your finger through the square hole that you can see inside the oven, and follow the wire through the insulation. You will feel the small round hole in the back. You have to wiggle the wire up and around a bit to get the plug to fit through the hole. Then you will have the slack you need to change the plugs.
That way, you don't have to pull the whole oven out and break all the caulking seals.

I replaced the igniter in both the oven and the broiler. This was my first time ever working on a range.
I removed the oven door for easy access. To replace the oven igniter, I took the bottom floor out of the oven. The igniter is readily visible at the rear of the burner. I removed the two screws holding the igniter with a socket wrench. The screws were somewhat stubborn but yielded rather quickly. I gently pulled the two wires attached to the igniter from the back of the oven until the connector was exposed. I disconnected the old igniter and connected the new one. Then I simply reversed the the procedure, tucking the connector and wire back through the hole it came from and re - installed the two screws in the bracket. The insulation provided with the kit was used to plug the hole in the back of the oven.

To replace the broiler igniter, I essentially followed the same procedure. However, I chose not to remove the broiler baffle. This made it more difficult to both remove and re-install the two screws holding the ignitor. Otherwise, everything else went smoothly. If I had to do it again, I'd remove the baffle.

The igniter was located in the bottom of the stove or broiler section. It was hard to get at, but with a little trial and error I figured out how to take the plate between the oven and broiler. Now the igniter was easily accessable. 2 screws on the igniter bracket, then simply unplug the electrical. The igniter supplied had the identical electrical plug (plug and play). The new igniter works like a charm-oven ignites in about 15 seconds. Piece of cake!!!!!

removed the shield and removed the old tube. Replaced with the new tube and replaced the shield. The only place I could locate this tube was through the internet. This Co. had as good a price including shipping that I found.

First I went online to find out about the availability of the part. In my search, I found what others had experienced and how they repaired it. Second, I ordered the part and followed others stories on their repair efforts. Third, I unplugged the range and removed the racks. Fourth, I removed the bottom of the oven which lifts out back first. Fifth, I removed the wing nut securing the flame difusser making it easier to access the element. Sixth, I had read that others had problems saving the original screws and/or threaded holes. I sprayed some wd-40 on both screws. They came out and back in without a hitch. Seventh, I removed and replaced the element, snap out, snap in. Eighth, I turned on the oven. It took about 15 seconds to glow but wow, it lit 5 seconds after that. I am my wife's hero!

removed oven floor, removed two screws in element . pulled out element wires, secured them so they would not fall back into slot, snaped in new element . scewed it in place , replaced floor . thanks partselect.com

If your igniter glows but the burner doesn't light, your igniter is more than likely bad. It should have at least 3.2V to gas valve when the igniter is glowing in order to open the gas valve. The repair is very easy with only a 5/16" nut driver equired to remove and replace the igniter. It's pretty much a plug and play reair.

I read all the reports on your site pertaining to oven igniters and decided to order one. I was amazed when it arrived the next day. I got a lot of tips reading others replys so I lifted off the oven door, took out the racks, removed the 2 screws holding the old igniter and tried to pull it out. There was hardly any slack in the wires, so I pulled the stove away from the wall, took off a breadpan size cover in back and found the wires were zip tied to a tube. I cut the tie and unplugged the wires, but the new plug didn't match so I cut the new plug off and rejoined the wires with butt to butt crimp connecters, which I prefer to wire nuts. I used the insulation and new cover from your kit as my old part had the long ceramic insulator and put it all back together. It works like new again and saved me a lot of money. I am very pleased with your product and service, thanks.

Very easy to repair, but you have to be able to pull your stove out. Two screws in the oven and then remove part of back cover of oven and one plug from there. Simple to do, but did not fix our problem. We are waiting repair now from service company as it looks like it needs a control panel. Worth trying yourself to fix the problem. Inexpensive part and easy to install. Also be sure to turn power off your oven to reset the control panel as this may fix the problem - try this first and also after installing new part - like rebooting a computer...

Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.

Remove the door... it just pulls up and out... set the release tabs so you can remove the bottom plate .. pull out broiler drawer... unscrew the 2 screws on the igniter ..let that hang... remove the cover for the termination.. and unplug the old igniter... then reverse everything to put back together..

I removed the flame baffle , removed the two screws that held the ignitor. Then I pulled the wires thru the back wall and disconnected . I had to cut the the connector and install with wire nuts because connector was different. Works fine now .

my sreen wasn't working , but when i touched the buttons i could hear the sounds.so i decided that the screen just burnt out.so i took it apart 4 phillip head screw.that easy then i un pluged the wires 4 of them all different shapes and sizes no brainer.4 more screws to remove the screen.Insalled new screen.matched up the wires with there pin count.and whala done replace it back on to the oven.replace the the 4 screws and done.works like a charm.Oh don"t forget to kill the power unplug it and if it's hard wired shut it off at the panel.should be marked stove oven ect.most important kill the power or they"ll be trying to fix you good luck

Removed burnt bulb. On replacing the bulb I glued the bracket, retainer gasket and bulb cover together- I used only a small amount of glue-just enough to hold the three items together. You need to do this since the three items slip in your hand while you attempt to screw the bracket to the oven wall. Need my help, email me @ Lexidog999@tx.rr.com