Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
soap dispenser door/spring broken
removed old parts and re-installed new parts. The spring is a little hard to get to the right point without a jewelers screwdriver, after that everything worked fine.
it would turn off and on mid-cycle and finally quit completely
I turned off the circuit. I removed the interior side of the door and then the plastic covering over the electrical wires and switches (I counterbalanced the door with a couple of half gallon juice containers). I removed the wires attached to the switch on the door handle and the door handle itself. The handle and switch parts disassembled and I replaced the switches (part of kit). I cut off the singed wire and the other three beyond the damaged portion and stripped the wires and connected the extensions (part of kit). I attached the new wires to the switches and closed up the interior door. Lastly, I turned the circuit breaker back on. All was well!
Diagnosing the problem, i.e. finding the source of the leak, was the hardest part. The best clue was the leak only occurred well into the cycle when the water was hot and steam was coming out the vent. I then assumed there was a bad seal and steam & condensed water was leaking down into the door. I replaced the vent duct & seal, a broken drip cover (an internal part in the door), and replaced a missing rinse aid cap. This stopped the leak.
Upper nozzle "spinner" had degraded to the point where it no longer worked
The only difficult part was taking out (relatively easy) and returning (hard) the clips from the rails. This required bending the end of the metal rails with pliers. Otherwise the dishrack just rolled in with no issues.
The spinner is somewhat lower than the one it is replacing, making the clearance over items in the lower rack to be serviceable but marginal.
I removed all the ( what my Husband called star screws ) star screws and removed the housing panel ( holds dish detergent cup and silverware basket ) I discovered everything accross the bottom was all gucked up with detergent soap accumulation. I took the part to the kitchen sink and used the sprayer hose on the part with hot water and it cleaned up beautifully, and the detergent latch then worked ( the spring that operates the latch was all gucked up with detergent accumulation ). I am the wife and did all of this myself and it only took around 5-10 min. My Husband had to help me figure out the type of screws because they turned out to not be phillip screws, but as Hubby called them.."star screws". Soooo, I did not need to use the Latch Kit I purchased, so will store it in my parts supply! :) Happy repairs to you.. Judy Estes Park, CO
upper spray and middle spray arms had broken apart due to age leaving unusable.
The video offered was perfect and walked me through the exact process and gave me the confidence i could handle this repair myself. It was very intuitive and went step by step. Thank you for taking the time to post the repair steps on video. Ordering the parts was very simple and they arrived on time. Flawless in every aspect. i would recommend your company.
Rubber hose disconnected and accidentally thrown away
This part is different than the original but works great. I used Geronimo's instructions, but cut the ring (see below) so I didn't have to glue it back together.
1-remove upper rack by removing holding clips.
2-remove old assembly from Rack
3-Use exacto knife to cut old ring guide at top between 2 hooks to accommodate new style (one solid plastic piece). No need to re-glue since the hooks hold it up okay.
The spray arm snapped off from the mounting bracket.
First of all, we were very impressed with the ease of finding the parts, the ordering, and the velocity in which the parts were shipped. We received them the next day. I had to remove one of the screws from the old kit, since the new one only came with one. I looked at the diagram on the website of the assembly, and also remembered what the assembly looked like before I took it apart. The first time I tried it, I could not get the spray arm to spin without hitting the dishwasher rack. Since I had ran out of time, I had to wait until the next day. Once I started, I realized that I had the mounting bracket on backwards. Once I turned it around, I tightened the screws, and it was done within 5 minutes.
replaced the two water defiector's, I had changed the door seal and should have changed the defiectors at the same time. Save yourself some time and ordor both parts. This is a easy fix, anyone can do.
Was able to replace and repair without taking the dishwasher out. Thermostat is behind and to the left of the power junction box. Has 2 wires going to it. It is up against the bottom of tub. I used an angled mirror to see what I was doing. 1 small screw to detach and pull down thermostat. Be sure power is off before you start. Also reprogrammed defaults. Hit any button 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3, fast and close door. Let it sit 15 min to run and re-set defaults. Now I have heat and dry dishes.
The old gasket came out easily, but had calcium deposits in area. I cleaned the area with vinegar and water and waited until it was completely dry. The new gasket went in very easily and looked great. I started the dishwasher and alas, it still leaks, so the problem was apparently not with the gasket, but some other area. But the gasket is nice and new. Any suggestions on next step0 in troubleshooting?
Steam venting past gasket causing short in switch at handle lock.
Removed inner cover of door. Pried Vent Assembly from door, peeled off thin sponge gasket strip from inner door, installed new thin sponge gasket strip on inner door vent opening bottom, snapped Vent Assembly into inner door opening, reinstalled inner door cover to door. Recommend removing Vent screen from inner door first to expose locking tabs of Vent Assembly to ease removal and installation of Vent Assembly. I assume vent cover will come off if pried with small screw driver. I didn't remove vent cover and had difficulty removing and installing Vent Assembly. (I did accomplish it though)
The plastic disc which sprays the jet has snapped off. This is the disk with swirl pattern on the back face.
1) Removed the two white clips from the left and righ hand side of the top tray roller rail. this allows the tray to be completely removed and ease access to the washer assembly. The clipe looks like the letter "k", so you will need to close the "k" to almost straight line in order to get it through the hole.
2) Put a sheet or a towel at the bottom of the machine, just incase you drop the two small cross head screws. This prevents the screws from falling to the bottom of the machine.
3) Remove the screws. At this time the washer assembly will/should slip out very easily. very little force is required to pull the assmbely out.
4) Slip on the new washer assembly and put the screws back in place. Tighten screws, Be careful not over tighten the screw as you may crack the plastic flange.
Note: My machine is an older model, so the washer assembly had two screw fixing. The new assembly only had one hole. Although one fixing appeared to be sufficient, I decided to drill a hole on the other side and this worked fine.
5) Replace the top tray, taking some care to ensure rollers are correctly located within the rails. Then replace the clips and job's complete.
first i picked out the old seal, use a screwdriver to get it started. Then I pushed the new one in after cleaning the seal channel. I fixed it during a commercial while watching my favorite tv show.
