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Latch broke on dishwasher
Look at the exploded parts diagram, that parts select provides on their website.
You have to take off the nine star pointed screws. So you need a special screwdriver or I had a socket set of them and I used a ratchet to make it easier. I think there are nine of them around the base of the door. Then remove the door and set it on the counter. Flip it over and there is a small plastic cover that has to be removed from the back of it, and it is easily removed by gently pulling on it.
Now comes the difficult part. There is a locking piece on it that holds the latch onto the door by interlocking with a piece on the back side of the door. I took a pair of wire snips and just cut the old interlocking piece off. This way I didn't have to try and slide the two interlocking pieces apart.
When you go to put the new piece on before you interlock them make sure they are put on right. Specifically the latch is pointing the right way to seal the detergent door. Otherwise it can be a pain to separate the interlocking pieces again. (which is why I cut it off the old one).
Disconnect power supply to dishwasher. Open door and remove screws on inner door cover. Carefully remove inner cover while watching how inner parts are arranged. Found return spring on detergent cup linkage had rusted and broken causing detergent cup not to open. Installed new spring and re assembled inner cover. Rotated timer dial one full revolution to check operation of detergent cup. Worked like a charm. Re connect power supply to dishwasher and your good to go.
it would turn off and on mid-cycle and finally quit completely
I turned off the circuit. I removed the interior side of the door and then the plastic covering over the electrical wires and switches (I counterbalanced the door with a couple of half gallon juice containers). I removed the wires attached to the switch on the door handle and the door handle itself. The handle and switch parts disassembled and I replaced the switches (part of kit). I cut off the singed wire and the other three beyond the damaged portion and stripped the wires and connected the extensions (part of kit). I attached the new wires to the switches and closed up the interior door. Lastly, I turned the circuit breaker back on. All was well!
removed old parts and re-installed new parts. The spring is a little hard to get to the right point without a jewelers screwdriver, after that everything worked fine.
After doing some research in a repair book I decided to take a stab with a water inlet valve. With expedited shipping I ordered the part and within three days it was delivered. I installed it and the dishwasher seemed like it was trying to fill but still would not. After much cocnsternation I turned the water supply valve to the dishwasher a partial turn to close and I felt the water rush through the valve and the dishwasher then filled. Apparently the shut off valve must have been clogged plus it now leaked. I then replaced the shutoff valve and the copper pipe to the water inlet valve with flexible 3/8" tubing and the dishwasher thus far is running fine without leaks.
I removed all the ( what my Husband called star screws ) star screws and removed the housing panel ( holds dish detergent cup and silverware basket ) I discovered everything accross the bottom was all gucked up with detergent soap accumulation. I took the part to the kitchen sink and used the sprayer hose on the part with hot water and it cleaned up beautifully, and the detergent latch then worked ( the spring that operates the latch was all gucked up with detergent accumulation ). I am the wife and did all of this myself and it only took around 5-10 min. My Husband had to help me figure out the type of screws because they turned out to not be phillip screws, but as Hubby called them.."star screws". Soooo, I did not need to use the Latch Kit I purchased, so will store it in my parts supply! :) Happy repairs to you.. Judy Estes Park, CO
Valve was leaking from plastic after water line change
Turned of water and unplugged the dishwasher. Disconnected the incoming water line. Drained on to the floor (have paper towels ready) Disconnected the electrical feed wire. Disconnected the rubber hose. Unscrewed screw holding the fixture to the frame. Took off the brass elbow from the old part. Put pipedope around it and screwed into new part (carefully, so as to not crack plastic again). Attached part back to frame. Attached water lines. Turned on water, plugged it in and ran dishwasher looking for leaks. No problem.
replaced the two water defiector's, I had changed the door seal and should have changed the defiectors at the same time. Save yourself some time and ordor both parts. This is a easy fix, anyone can do.
I unscrewed the old water inlet valve from the frame of the dishwasher so that I could manuever my hand around to the backside where the rubber hose was connected. That was the easy part. I then had trouble holding the old valve while trying to unscrew the hot water copper tubing so I screwed it back on the frame. My dishwasher is close to 18 years old and I think that was part of the problem. After soaking in WD40, I finally got the valve out. Then I had to remove the "L" shaped connector to put on the new valve. Everything went back together a lot faster and it's like I have a new dishwasher again. By the way, I am a 53 year old female so that may be why it took me so long.
Was able to replace and repair without taking the dishwasher out. Thermostat is behind and to the left of the power junction box. Has 2 wires going to it. It is up against the bottom of tub. I used an angled mirror to see what I was doing. 1 small screw to detach and pull down thermostat. Be sure power is off before you start. Also reprogrammed defaults. Hit any button 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3, fast and close door. Let it sit 15 min to run and re-set defaults. Now I have heat and dry dishes.
The old gasket came out easily, but had calcium deposits in area. I cleaned the area with vinegar and water and waited until it was completely dry. The new gasket went in very easily and looked great. I started the dishwasher and alas, it still leaks, so the problem was apparently not with the gasket, but some other area. But the gasket is nice and new. Any suggestions on next step0 in troubleshooting?
first i picked out the old seal, use a screwdriver to get it started. Then I pushed the new one in after cleaning the seal channel. I fixed it during a commercial while watching my favorite tv show.
I first removed the old part. when i removed the old part i could not get the conector piece off when i when to get a new one they told me i should replace the copper tubing with the more flexable tubing because the copper tubing can kink up and possibly break from the kinking. so i screwed the inlet valve on i put teflon tape on the all the threads of the conector piece screwed it into the new inlet valve with and adjustable wrench then i conected the new tubing, and tightend it down with the wrench i slowly turned the water back on to cheak for leaks. When i saw there were no leaks i turned the water on the rest of the way pushed the dishwasher back in and screwed it into place an i was done.
My dishwasher's heated dry cycle wasn't heating up
After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.