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inlet valve cracked
I first removed the old part. when i removed the old part i could not get the conector piece off when i when to get a new one they told me i should replace the copper tubing with the more flexable tubing because the copper tubing can kink up and possibly break from the kinking. so i screwed the inlet valve on i put teflon tape on the all the threads of the conector piece screwed it into the new inlet valve with and adjustable wrench then i conected the new tubing, and tightend it down with the wrench i slowly turned the water back on to cheak for leaks. When i saw there were no leaks i turned the water on the rest of the way pushed the dishwasher back in and screwed it into place an i was done.
Pulled off the old valve using a crescent wrench and screw driver. The replacement part was a 100% exact match. Slapped on the new valve and that baby was water tight. $50 on a new valve is a lot better than $500 for a new washer.
Partselect.com was so easy to use and find the right part. Way more helpful than whirlpool's site, but that's not surprising seeing as they have an "authorized repair technician" page.
i determined that the impeller was not free. ordered and installed an impeller kit which included a new bushing, which was the culprit. it was a fairly simple fix, needing only to remove the pump housing from the back of the motor. access to the impeller was by removing the screw-in, x shaped connection on the back side of the impeller housing. runs like new again. the fix was far less expensive than a new washer.
Turned off electricity. Removed the interior door cover. Removed door switch. Replaced switches & reversed process. By the way - I am a woman & diagnosised, ordered part & fixed it myself - I have no experience in this field. THANKS for all your information on your site.
removed two hose clamps and old hose. slid new hose on existing fittings on dishwasher drain and disposal and tightened hose clamps. Turned it on for test run.
remove star screws holding inside door panel. remove plastic cover that protects latch assembly. hook one end of spring on stationary pin on inside of slider bar. Hook other end of spring on pin on slider bar. replace cover and door panel.
Replaced door gasget took 5 minutes tops. Ran cycle and still had leak. Called local repair person. After thoroughly checking out the dishwasher and running soapless cycle determined problem to be soap build up over time. He ran a commercial cleaner through a complete pots and pan cycle. No more suds and no more leak repair complete. Did not actually need door gagset but it was super easy to change and delivery service was great.
I watched the video link sent in an email and followed exactly what they did in the video. I removed the star head screws holding the door liner in place. Then removed the protective cover on the inside. I disengaged the component holding the latch in place. I replace the component that holds the latch in place and then snapped the new latch in place. I turned the dishwasher dial until the prongs were fully retracted. I replace the protective cover and then put the door cover back in place. I initially only placed the left bottom star head screw until I was sure that the latch was going to release. I tested that it was working properly by slowly turning the dial on the dishwasher control. Once I knew it was working I replaced the rest of the screws.
Got the new door and tried to put it on. The door went on very easily. However, there's a spring that opens the door when the main wash cycle comes around. I never did get that spring right. None of the drawings showed the correct position and after an hour of trying to get it to work right, I gave up. The door comes open slightly (but not because of the spring) when it's time, and the liquid soap runs out due to gravity. But I wouldn't try to use soap powder because the door doesn't come open far enough.