First I disconnect the breaker. I removed the defected receptacle and cut the wires. I connected the new receptacle with parts with the new part. Turned the breaker back on and everthing worked fine.
We unplugged the range from the wall first so as not to get electrocuted. We removed the face of the control panel by removing the screws and 2 hex nuts underneath that hold it in place, and removed the trim. Then we disconnected the malfunctioning control switch, taking note of what order the wires go in. Hooked the new switch up and popped it through the face of the control panel. We then put the trim back, and reattached the control panel with the screws. Very easy!!
The 6in burner would go to max heat regardless of the setting.
Un screwed the two screws in the downdraft section enough to release the unit that holds the surface burner controls.Then removed the control nob, unscrewed the two screws that holds the switch in the unit, removed the wires, making sure the color of the wires were placed on the same contact point. Put it back together and it worked fine.Of course I did shut off the power before starting any of the above
Pulled out electric heating element and replaced with new. I have had this frustrating problem for 2 years and after replacing the elements they now work like new! My only question, why did it take me so long to replace???
After buying a 'universal' part at Lowe's and it not fitting correctly and shorting out the burner, I went online and found this source for an exact replacement part. Beside having to disassemble the drop in stove burner two or three times it went well when I had the correct part. I lost one screw somewhere and that delayed me a short time to find a replacement. Thus the 1 to 2 hours. It would have been about a 30 minute job if I had been smarter.
I removed the burner elements for three burners by lifting the surface top and unplugging them. I snapped out the plug sockets that were burned out and cut the two wires, one element at a time. Using the included wire nuts I stripped the ends of the cut wire and connected each wire to one of the wires on the new socket. Once the wires were connected I snapped the sockets in place and reinstalled the elements, lowered the surface top and the range was ready to use.
Replaced one of the four burner control switches on my Jennair cooktop. One of the tricks I use to prevent mistakes is putting the new switch along side the existing one and swap one connector at a time over to the new switch preventing any confusion and negating any need to mark the wires. This differs from your video assistant who disconnected all the wires at once. gc.
Sparks shot out from under knob, then, no surprise, the burner didn't work
I've ordered parts from you twice now, and both times the service has been absolutely amazing!!!!!
Now, on to how I did this without fire or electrocution:
Turned off breakers. Grabbed a beer. Removed two screws holding in plate. Removed electrical connectors. Removed two screws holding switch. Put new switch in place with screws. Reattached connectors. Reseated plate & screws. Turned on power & tested. Finished beer and felt very manly.
The hardest part was getting the plate to re-seat.
