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Ice maker did not work in the bottom freezer
Shut down refrigerator at the breaker. Placed freezer items in a cooler. Removed top shelf. You must release roller covers on each side to remove the shelf ( Two front screws must be removed) Took off freezer door. (4 screws holding the door to the bracket) Disconnected ice maker electronic plug. Totally removed bottom screw holding ice maker. Loosen two top screws and remove ice maker. Reverse process to install.
Removed the drawers and shelf unit above the shelves. Installed the new rail and put the shelf unit and drawers back in. Less than 5 minute repair. Very fast delivery of part and reasonable pricing.
Ice maker was leaking fresh water into the tray freezing large clumps of cubes together.
First and foremost shut off the water supply to the Ice maker. Some recommend unplugging the refrigerator or disabling the circuit breaker to the refrigerator. Then after emptying the freezer remove the freezer door by loosening the four hex head screws and lift the door straight up and set it off to the side.You can then remove the lower basket. Now locate the clamps located at the rear sides of the inner basket and use a small flat blade screwdriver to gently push the tabs toward the outside of the side clamps while pulling up at the same time and releasing the clamp. Now repeat this procedure on the opposite side of the inner basket. The inner basket can then be pulled out being careful to not damage the roller tracts or gear rollers. Three hexhead screws secure the ice maker to the wall. The screw under the ice maker must be removed while the two on top just loosened. The electrical plug is removed by depressing the tabs on the top and bottom of the plug and then pulling outward. Carefully lift the ice maker upward and out from the two upper hex head screws. You can then install the replacement icemaker by reversing the procedure.
Refrigerator would ice up around the condenser and through out the air vents. Stopping all air flow in the refrigerator. If you defrosted the refrigerator it would work for about 24 hours then ice up again.
Unplugged and empty refrigerator, completely defrosted refrigerator using a hair dryer to speed up the defrosting, put a lot of towels on the floor to soak up the water when the ice melts. Removed all refrigerator racks and drawers, then remove the white plastic and styrofoam condenser cover. You will then see the thermistor, cut the two small wires connecting the thermistor to the harness leave yourself as mush wire as possible. Splice in the new thermistor and put the refrigerator back together.
tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok
Original bracket foot brake screw hole was stripped and foot brake would not extend
The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.
The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.
To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.
Removed door from slide bars with small nutdriver, pulled old gasket out of retaining slot, cleaned slot & area around it, pressed new gasket into place with fingers, relatively easy. Used hair dryer to make sure gasket was formed properly and contacted fridge unit eavenly.
I was easily able to find the part using the online search. I order the part and it arrived in about two days. Installing the part meant pulling out the two crisper drawers, emptying the shelf above the crispers, removing two glass shelf plates, inserting the new part, replacing the glass plates, replacing the food on the shelf and sliding in the two crisper drawers. All in all, about 3 minutes.
Watched Partselect video of P-trap installation.Removed water line & back cover& disconnected wires to water solenoid .Removed old drain tube & old problematic rubber funnel. Used contact cleaner to clean rubber residue from drain line and used a little silicone to aide reassembly. Job went well thanks to video.
Refrigerator not defrosting properly. Evaporator froze on three different occasions.
I watched the video provided on-line in your website, which was excellent. The information provided gave me everything I needed to change the board. I already had experience handling control boards and was aware of the static precautions; however, your paperwork was very good detailing how to program the new board. The only small problem I had was reinstalling the temp sensor in its bracket. The lead was very short. Other than that, all went well! The project took between 20 and 30 minutes.
Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one. But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.
I removed the crisper drawers, glass shelf, and frame assembly to install the ladder hook. Before reinstalling the glass shelf on top of the crisper frame, I installed the center crisper rail. Thank goodness for websites like this!