4YED20TKFN05 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

The Video on U tube was helpful. I have a side by side model and it was difficult to work in such tight quarters to attach the new part . I found that by removing the cable assembly it was much easier to attach (cut and crimp) the new part on the outside , then reinsert the assembly. The new part resolved my problem. Don't panic when you try and remove the cable assembly. Hope this is helpful.

Took out old drawers, slide new drawers in.

First empty the shelves on the refrig. door. Then removed the upper hing cover and removed the three screws holding the hinge to the body of the refrigerator. Lifted the door off the bottom hinge and placed it clear of the unit.
Inspected the bottom hinge and cleaned off the screw holding the closing cam, then with a nutdriver removed the screw holding the cam and removed the cam from the hinge. Installed a new cam closer, secured the cam with a screw. Hanged the door back on the lower hinge and re-installed the upper hinge. Job Complete!

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

Fridge/freezer warm. After unpluging and plug in again, both would get cold. Then, ice would partially melt in the freezer only to refreeze later. Noted large temperature swings in freezer-up to 48 degrees during defrost cycle. Finally after a day or two, both sides warming up permanently to room temp. Tapping inside the fridge near the cold control (thermostat) would cause the warm fridge/freezer to cool again. Installation is simple. Remove knobs and snap on face plate in front top of fridge. Remove screws allowing plastic cover to drop down which houses the thermostat at the inside top of fridge. loosen two mounting hex head screws from thermostat mount. Remove two plastic covers concealing thermostat wire that travels to vent at back of fridge. Remove thermostat. remove plastic tube over wire on old thermostat by slipping it forward and slide tube on to new thermostat wire. Install is the same in reverse. A thermometer in the freezer confirms very little temperature variation after install (3-4degrees); ice no longer melts, unit stays on!

Simply remove the cover over top hinge and remove the three outer screws (Do NOT remove the center screw). Lift the door off the lower pivot pin. Turn door upside down and replace the upper cam and then the lower cam on the pivot at the bottom of the refrigerator case. Reintall the door by setting the door on the lower pivot and then reinstall the top pivot and cover. VERY easy and what a difference. No more "POP".

Placed tray on lower part of refrigerator.

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

Purchased the closing cam (both pieces). Removed door (3 bolts under the dust shield on top of door) and replaced the plastic cam pieces. So easy a caveman could do it. I actually had my 13 year old son do it while I supervised!

easy - remove the door, replace th part, put back the door

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

One front roller was flat on one side. Decided to replace all rollers at same time. Placed shims under unit and removed mounting screws for one front and one rear roller. With new rollers in place, I was able to level the refrigerator side to side, but unable to do so, front to back. Left the new front roller in place and reinstalled the old rear roller. Have decided to replace refrigeratorin the near future. This is one of my few repair failures!

watched your instructions

I did some tests and determined that the tub-to-pump drain hose had a leak in it.I then looked on the web to find disassembly instructions. I have a stacked washer dryer combination in a very confined space. The repair involved disconnecting both the washer and dryer from the water, gas, electric and venting systems first, then unstacking the dryer from the washer (not so easy, it required a helper). The machine was then pulled out so I could get at the parts necessary to remove the outside components and sheet metal. Then, I disassembled the top, front and access panel in the back. The disassembly went very well. I got access to the drain hose assembly and removed it fairly easily. I ordered a replacement drain hose assembly and found that installing the large port of the assembly was very difficult. (The two other ports were easy.) After thinking about it, I tilted the machine back a bit so I could try it from the bottom. That worked fine.I then reassembled and tested the machine. No leaks. Good luck with yours!