4KSRS25KLT00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

First removed the three screws at the top that holds the door at the top. Removed the worn out lower door cam after removing one screw. Did the same on the door closing cam (in fact this cam has worn and broken into two pieces). Replaced with the new ones, put the screws back, mounted the door and replaced the three screws on top. The door closed perfectly.
Since this did not help with keeping the refrigerator cold, a day later I had to vacuum the dust off the coils (on the underside of the refrigerator) and thaw the ice from the freezer compartment clearing the ducts to re-initiate the proper flow of air between the two compartments (I learnt on the internet that cold air from the freezer is drawn to maintain the temperature in the refrigerator compartment). The faulty refrigerator door ended up icing our frost free referigerator's freezer compartment and the air ducts in it. Therefore I had to simply turn off the refrigerator for 12 hours, thaw everything and restart! I know nothing about refrigerators. Just did it after visiting your site and a couple of other sites. Saved me about $300!!

Super-easy... First, empty refrigerator door. Then, just remove the bolt that goes through the cover over the top hinge. This exposes three more small bolts. Remove these and the top hinge assembly will lift off. Lift door off. Remove cam from door and lower hinge, slip new cams on, and reassemble. The hardest part was pulling all of the junk stuff out of the refrigerator door. Who know you could accumulate so much salad dressing?

Removed the top bracket (3 5/16 size hexhead bolts)
Lifted door free of the bottom cam and hinge socket
(after, of course removing the items from the door shelves!)
removed one bolt holding the lower came to the cabinet.
Pried the cam loose, replaced with new and re-bolted
removed one bolt from cam on door - unable to remove cam until I removed the guard bracket (two more bolts)
worked the plastic cam from the door by twisting it and pulling the socket from it's hole.
Slipped the new cam into the socket hole, aligned the bolt hole and bolted it tight.
Aligned the top cam to the bottom cam as I replaced the door. Re-attached the top bracket.
All bolts were 5/16
Door now works perfectly again.

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

It took 2 minutes to search and find the correct part for half the price of the original part that I had inquired about.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

Removed old switch and installed new - but did not solve problem

Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,

Fit in perfectly. Slid out the old one, replaced with the new one. Very easy. Very satisfied with the transaction.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

This was a very simple job. Remove the top Hinge bracket, a total of 4 screws, lifted the door off the bottom hinge, removed the bottom hinge set up, 2 screws, replaced it, and attached the new bottom black door cam, lifted the door back onto the bottom hinge and aligned the top hinge, and reinserted the screws, and Ta Da, The door works like a new refrigerator door. 15 to 30 min tops. I did not even have to take the refrigerator items out of there door holder.

I added an icemaker kit. Everything I needed was in the kit. The refrigerator was presetup for an icemaker it was just never added. The only problem I had was that the holes for attaching the water solenoid were not pre drilled so I had to drill them myself and use sheet metal screws. The icemaker is working great.

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!