4KMTW5405TQ0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Started by unpluging and disconnected water hoses.Removed agitator retaining bolt and pulled off. Tipped machine onto a support on it`s front side. Unplugged motor connector and removed drain hoses from pump.Removed the three motor bolts and rotated and pulled out motor and shaft. Removed retaining clip and installed new clutch assembly. Plastic clutch drive looked ok but since it was apart removed retaing clip and changed it too. Slid shaft and motor assembly back into machine and reconnected everything,works like a new one.

followed repair instruction,( bought on line and down loaded ) some instructions were unclear but when you have the machine apart its obvious. your parts breakdown helped more than the instructions once the cabinet was opened.

The lid switched arrived as indicated by the order information. Pulling the washer out to remove the rear panel was the most difficult part of the repair. 5 screws had to be removed before changing out the switch and installing the new part. The repair proved successful after the washer filled with water and began agitating on its own.

Many kudos to the folks who posted here. The instructions with the part didn't help much, but your comments did. I found it quite easy to replace the retaining clips using a pair of pliers at their wide setting to press the clip back into place. Oh, and when you tip the washer over, have a can of bug spray handy, you might be upsetting a black widow or two.

Replaced broken and worn wear pads per online instruction.also replace tub springs and counterweight spring.all very simple.

I completed the repair EXACTLY as shown in the YouTube video. I went Googling for some ideas when I came upon the PartSelect video which showed the repair being completed on the EXACT make and model of my unit. Screw Sears, which listed the repair as 'difficult'; it was easy! Nothing like seeing it done before attempting it. I am very pleased with both the product and the help!

Replaced clutch and direct drive assembly and associated parts. Found a broken pin on the plastic part that moves the cam.

went well but alas the problem still exists.

We search on line the possible cause for our problem and Partselect offered the possible cause and solution. We watched the video on replacing the water pump.We then ordered the pump and 2 hoses.We followed the instructions and after removing the front panel, we found out one of the pump retainer was rusted away. We tried to look for local supplier and was shock that Sears was charging 20 bucks for a single retainer, which Partselect only charge dollar and eight cents. We ordered the 2 retainers on Thursday and it arrived on Saturday afternoon. We were able to fix the problem and are very happy there was no more leak. I wish the retainers come with the pump even if you include the extra cost to the pump pricing. We could have save the extra shipping charge for ordering the retainers only. I would definitely order more parts from Partselect and recommend it to my friends. Thanks again for your help.

You have to determine if it is the COUPLING or the TRANSMISSION or the CLUTCH. I checked the coupling and that wasn't it. The machine did rotate back and forth in the wash cycle so I thought it would be either the clutch or the timer assembly. I ordered the clutch and used the video to guide me through the installation. One problem was the PUMP was stuck on the shaft so I removed the hosed and took out the rest as one unit. The clutch was full of crud and after replacing it and checking for leaks, the machine runs perfectly now! I would suggest you replace the hose washers when you reattach them to the machine as I rechecked after turning on the water and found a TINY drip that would have been a problem over time!

My brother-in-law did the repair. He unscrewed the back of the top part of the machine. He located the lid switch, which is on the right from the back of the machine (left if you look at it from the front). He then unscrewed the ground wire and unhooked the old lid switch. He put the new one in place, hooked it back up, screwed the ground wire. Reconnected everything and now it works.

Lifted up the control panel, removed the broken lid switch and replaced it. Replaced missing Lid hinge mounting screws. It was great. Fixed the problem. Felt empowered to fix it ourselves for such a reasonable cost. Thanks

remove 2 screws holding top control panel down one on each side at the back / slide panel toward the front lay it over on the top of machine / unscrew ground wire /pop gray part off machine unplug wire // plug in new wire place part back into slot screw down ground wire / slide top control panel back on / replace screws on the back/ plug up and wash / it is so easy would have been faster but i had 3 kids helping to take out and put in the screws for me /

Unplug washer from the electrical receptacle. Remove one phillip screw on each side from the rear of the control panel and one hexnut with plastic strap from the rear of the control panel on each side. Pull control panel towards the front of the washer. Locate gray lid switch on the top left, rear side. Remove metal grounding screw with green wire from the metal top of the washer. Detach the gray lid switch from the electrical module and remove entire switch. At this time, open the washer machine lid carefully and gently install the new lid switch. Reattach the ground wire and metal screw to the chassis. Put control panel back in it's original location, carefully align each of the rear side phillip screws and tighten. Do the same with the two hex nuts and plastic strap. Close lid and remember to plug the washer back in to the electrical receptacle. Start the washer with your normal procedure! It should now start!!! Good luck!

Old seal just kept falling off due to age wear. Took old one off (kept falling off) and popped the new one right in place. Very easy. Thanks Parts Select