4KMTW5405TQ0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Follow the video to remove the cabinet. Did NOT have to lay the unit on its back in order to replace all 5 springs. These may be easily replaced with the washer standing upright. The back Suspension Spring was removed by using the access hole in the back of the washer to remove the screw holding the back spring bracket in place. Reassembled the cabinet per the video. Except for moving the washer around, this was an extremely easy repair. To facilitate moving the washer - use Moving PADS placed under the 4 feet of the washer.

Disconnected electrical and then water inputs on the rear of the cabinet. Tipped the machine onto its front. Found that a spring was unhooked and dangling from a bracket. I searched for the location to secure the spring and found a hole on the rear base of the cabinet rusted through. I drilled another mounting hole nearby, Since the original spring had also broke, I replaced it with a new one from PartSelect, securing it between its bracket and the new retaining hole. Returned the machine to its upright position, reconnected water input lines, then its electrical. The machine works fine once again.

Unplugged washer, took out screws that held on the dial panel, lifted dial panel, disconnected the ground wire, released the clip, lifted the lid which released the switch. Installed new switch closed the lid which holds it in place set the clip connected ground wire reattached dial panel secured it with the screws, plugged the washer back in and I was on my way the conquer that pile of laundry that had built up.

I watched a Part Select video on replacing the augitator and just followed the directions to replace the thrust washer (which was showing wear) and the washer. The instructions that came with the thrust washer were helpful as well.

First, I moved the washer with water in it from the wall. Then, I removed two screws with a phillip head screwdriver from the back cover to the controls. Then I used a little bitty wrench to remove two small bolts that also held the back cover of the controls to the rest of the washer. The control panel was all attached, so it had to lay forward on the washer to remove the broken lid switch and then to install the new lid switch. There was one screw that I removed with a phillip head screwdriver. I removed the broken part and placed the new part into the hole. Then I had to move the control panel with limited space to lift the lid of the washer; the part would not fit property without lifting the lid. Once it fit into place, I closed the lid and replaced the screws and bolts. It worked beautifully. Thank you for your online help and the remarks from other people who had previously fix this lid switch.

Leaned the washer back to get at the bottom, removed the water holes, removed the water pump, removed the motor, replaced the direct drive motor coupling. Put it back together and it's all good. No clutch or drive problems. Simple fix.

I generally followed the video. Disconnected the water hoses, removed the front, laid the washer on its back. My water pump is rusted onto the motor shaft so I left it in place. I removed the water pipes from the pump then removed the pump/motor/gearbox as one unit. Watch out for more water than you think being released from the pipes and pump!! Everything works well with the new clutch fitted.

I replaced lid switch. Take off two screws off the back of insterment panel. Unscrew switch and unplug. Then reverse. Easy!!

When I pulled the machine out, I noticed one of the suspension springs on the floor. I followed the video supplied by PartSelect.com and suggestions by other folks. I started with the spring that was missing, which was a mistake since I did not know that there are custom spring clips which hold the spring to the drum. Once I found the missing part the installation was very easy. I used the suggestion by another post, of wedging a block of wood between the back of the machine and drum, to relax the rear suspension spring, which eliminated having to remove the back of the machine or tipping the machine on the back to get at the screw. I will always look to PartSelect.com for any future appliance repairs. You are the greatest

It was easy with the video.I watched trouble shooting videos till i found the problem. wrote dwn the tools needed.watched video[lucky for me i would have forgot a step without it]orderd part, and was the hero

Unscrew the screws from the back of the control panel and lift the panel back. The lid switch is on the top left side of the washer. I unscrewed the ground wire, lift the lid switch out and replaced it. Then I reversed the whole process to put it all back. All being three srews and the lid switch. There was no need to remove anything else. It could not have been any easier.

So Easy! Just slid old one off and sled new one on. This is the rubber seal that you touch when you open the lid. I was afraid I would get the wrong part but am so glad others left notes so I could tell this was the right one. And it definitely is worth the replacement cost.

I simply watched the video that was on YouTube for this site. It was dead on with my washer and super easy to do. The step by step was just awesome and easy to follow. The repair took just over an hour and I even cleaned the entire inside of this 12 year old washer which was pretty cruddy. The washer now spins great and works like new again. All for about $50. Thanks.

A word to the wise watch the repair video first guys and save an hour or 2 of aggrivation. I saved a couple hundred bucks instead of having the repair guys do it. It was easier than I thought. Machine runs like new again. Thanks Partselect. L.A.B. Rocland, Mass.

the video pretty much told the whole story except I forgot to put the plastic collar piece on the new clutch when I put it back together so I got to do it twice. second time went even easier. Thanks for the video,it was great.