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No heat/intermittent heat. Ignitor glowed but no gas flame.
White Westinghouse WDG547PB Dryer. Removed access panel (lower left front of dryer) by removing phillips head screw below access panel. Removed two phillips head screws holding bracket that holds coil in place. Removed coil, disconnected electrical connector. Connected electrical connector to new coil and set in place. Repeat for second coil. Reinstall bracket and access panel. Job complete. Dryer back in service with no problems.
CLothes weren't getting dry enough for the dryer.. also made a squeling, rubbing noise while aggitating. Had a repair man for my dishwasher..told him I thought it was the transmission.. he hand turned the aggitator and said that was the problem.. Just needed a new aggitator....whew what a relief!
I'm a 70 year old widow.. ordered the part which came in 2 days..(.very reasonably priced) My son came over and in no time had the old out and new in...works like a new machine... Thank you Part Select. A few months ago ordered a stove ignitor..it too came really fast... stove is good for another 15 years..LOL
1. Removed face of dryer (drum 'holder') 2. Disconnected door switch wires 3. Tore off existing felt
NOTE: The length of the felt that I recieved from PartSelect was incorrect (too short). Since the existing felt was worn and torn at the top, I replaced only a length that matched the length of the new felt.
4. Used a razor blade-type gasket remover/scraper to remove the exisitng glue 5. Applied new glue (which comes with the felt) onto the felt and let it set up
NOTE: In hindsite, I would apply the glue to the drum holder instead, as the glue otherwise soaks into the felt. If applied to the drum holder instead, the glue will spread out and provide more surface area for adherence.
6. Installed the new felt, starting at one end and working my way around to the other end, being careful not to stretch it 7. Trimmed the remainder of the existing felt (see first NOTE) 8. Scraped the drum holder below the pulled away ends of the exisitng felt 9. Applied glue to the existing felt, including the trrimmed ends so that the ends do not pull away from the ends of the new felt 10. Re-attached the existing felt 11. Let the glue set-up overnight 12. Reinstalled the face of the dryer, turning the drum so that the felt will not get pushed away 13. Reconnected the door switch wires 14. Turned dryer on, with lid still raised, to check for any drifting of the felt 15. Once assured that the felt would stay in place, put the dryer in service
NOTE: I replaced the felt becasue of the gap that opened due to compression of the felt. The gap, as well as a torn piece of the felt that entered the interior of the drum, was catching clothes and tearing them as they were rotated between the drum and the drum holder. The new felt eliminated this problem.
Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!
1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down 2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet. 3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face. 4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together 5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum 6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out) 7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer 8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time) 9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease 10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum 11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down 12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner 13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet 14) Put the cabinet back together
I went online with Model number and put in a search for a timer knob. The piece I ordered turned out to be the timer knob for the washer (stackable washer/dryer unit). I called and ordered the correct part and had to mail back the 1st one. I learned that it is better to speak with a person when ordering parts to make sure you are getting the correct on. You can avoid a lot of expense for postage this way. Once I had it, it was just a matter of sliding it on to the metal post on the dryer.
The Dryer Drum Would Not Move. Motor Worked But Drum Didnt.
First I read the manual on how to replaced the dryer drum belt. Second I took off the front panel. This would involving taken all screws from the top of the dryer face and the front panel. Thirdly I removed the exhaust attachment. Then I saw that the belt broke. Really it looked torned apart. I believe too heavy of a load in dryer. I then installed the new belt and reversed everyhing I did to start. The dryer runs great. This is not that bad of a job. If you can do it yourself, why pay hunreds on a service man to do the job.
removed old agitator by loosing a bolt at top, after removing the detergent dispenser. agitator came off easily, new one on, bolt on with rachet wrench, dispencer on. works like new. thanks for the great service. the part came in faster than i thought it would, and i would have had to travel for miles to get a part around here. VAL
I removed the front panel to see the belt was snapped in two. The front roller is sping loaded, so I gave it a little tention, slid the belt back on and viola! it was that easy. If your washer starts to vibrate more and sounds louder than normal, get a belt as soon as possible because that may be the problem. Once I put on the new belt, the machine ran as quiet as it did when I first bought it.
Unpluged the dryer, took out the light assembly, unpluged the wires to the unit, replaced the old unit with new unit from Partselect. Plugged dryer in, problem fixed. Taa Daa
I removed the top of the washer by removing two screws on the back. I located and bypassed the lid switch to make sure that wasn't the problem. The problem still existed so I removed the two screws that hold the front panel of the washer. Using a flashlight, I located the drive belt and immediately saw that it was out of position and had pieces missing. I cut and removed the old belt, placed the new belt on the tub pulley and slowly maneuvered it onto the motor drive wheel. I then squeezed the tensioner pulley so that the belt was seated. I turned the timer dial which started the washer and it immediately began pumping the water out of the tub. Problem solved!
Replaced pump, by removing back panel and removing the two screws holding the pump to the bottom of the machine. The only difficult aspect was dealing with the hose clamps, these were extremely awkward to work with in a confined space. The repair would have been less than 30 min if the hose clamps weren't so difficult to put back in place.
Unplug the unit. The top of the dryer is held down by 2 simple friction pins. By lifting the dryer top above it's front door panel the top will swing up. Prop the top up so you can reach down the front panel. There are 2 Phillips screws about 6 inches down on the dryers front panel. Remove the 2 screws, tip the front panel toward you it will slip off the dryer drum. Remove the 2 push on wires attached to the door switch. Gently lift the front panel off the 2 hinge points at the bottom and set it aside. The parts that your going to replace are the 2 solenoids on the burner assembly. The burner assembly is located on the lower left side of the dryer. Remove the 2 Philips screws that "clamp" the solenoids in place. Pull the 3 & 2 wire friction connectors off the solenoids. Lift the clamp off the top of the solenoids. Pick the 2 solenoids up off the valve assemble. Put the 2 new solenoids on the valve assembly push the wires back on, put the clamp back on and resemble the dryer. *Note: just to make a quick check on the continuity of the solenoids. I suspended the dryer drum so it could rotate without damaging it, put my clamp on amp probe on the 120v line to the solenoids the 3 wire one was good the 2 wire one was open.