41739012890 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

followed your instructions, unscrewed old part, screwed on new timer knob. Done.

took the back panel off then removed the rubber belt. Using a screw driver to stop the pulley from turning I removed the bolt holding the pulley on. Replaced the pulley tightened the bolt back up again using a screw driver to stop the pulley from turning put the belt and back panel.

took 2 screws out and took broken part off and then put on new part. About 3 minutes. would have been faster if mouse hadn't run out from under dryer and startled me. Best part was how easy to find part at part select with just number off of old piece. At GE website had to search to find it and then it was 4 times the price. Thank you for fast service.

I took off the bottom cover by removing the two screws on the bottom cover. The shock absorber was completely broken off from its bracket. I pulled the plastic pin on the top and bottom of the shock absorber and installed the new shock. The machine works perfect again spinning out all the water. With the broken shock absorber the drum will shake violently and the machine shuts down. It makes it appear to be an electric control problem.

Using a youtube video, (which might have actually been related to parts select), the door lock replacement went smoothly AFTER I couldn't SEE the SPRING around the rubber boot, as the spring was the SAME color and with a little bit of dust on it, was indistinguishable. As soon as I found it, the rest was fairly simple. I MIGHT even try replacing the moldy boot on these stupid front loaders...I paid for overnight shipping as I also had Geek squad guys on hold for repair, and needed to know fast, whether or not this would do the trick. HOORAY!

I watched a tutorial online (don't believe it he only showed the easy side) you have to hold the clip on the nylon pin and drive it out on both ends of the shock. on the rite side the lower pin hits on the back side and wont come out far enough to release the shock,i had to get on the backside and cut the pin off(thankfully their was a spare pin in the kit,you also have to disconnect a hose in front of the top pin on the rite side,i don't know how you would ever get this pin out if you ever had to again as you have to drive it in backwards. I neglected to tell you this was a top loader and the fron lower panel gives you access to these shocks.

Remove the 2 screws on the rear of the top panel. Open door and remove the 2 screws holding the latch assembly. Reach down and pull up latch. Remove the 3 wire connectors. Plug wire into new latch and re-install in reverse order.

Straight-forward: remove hose wire-clamps, unplug electric/ground, unbolt bottom pump bracket (two studs), reset new pump outlet to match factory configuration (easy, but watch to not roll/pinch o-ring seal), reinstall in reverse order (wire-clamps are toughest part - clamping tools, as noted, are helpful). Also, clean hoses, esp. if old, and it helps to use some kind of vinyl guard (like Amorall) on them for lube and preservation. Leak-test. Plan for some water leakage during removal - sopping/vac'ing out the drum, catching hose drainage in a shallow pan or with a towel will help.

When I was examining the catch, it broke in three pieces. The lock/switch assembly had a piece that seemed to be hanging down, not looking good. I didn't know which part was at fault, so I had to bite the bullet and order both. It took a while to find the parts on your diagrams, but eventually I figured out which one had them. I'm not sure I would have had the nerve had not your video on how to install the lock/switch made it seem really straightforward and simple (nice job!). As it turned out, once the door catch was replaced (two screws) the door started behaving. So perhaps the $70+ for the lock/switch wasn't necessary, but it's probably just as well to have it in reserve. I saved your video on my computer for future reference. Thanks for saving us from what initially looked like a really bad situation.

Everything went great, except replacing the rubber seal, that was a little bit harder to put back in place. But other then that, went very well and easy to repair.

I removed the back cover after disconnecting the electric and shutting off the water. I then proceeded to disconnect the water lines and then removed the water inlet valve by removing the two screws holding it in place. Then I used pliers to remove the hose leading to the washer. After that I did everything in reverse and was back in business. The video was very helpful and it made me feel comfortable with the procedure. I now know a little more about washers. Thanks for the excellent information.

Remove the top cover and the doorlacth and unplug the old parts as simple as that

took off front an back panels-pushed half inch socket over pins and pulled them out with channel locks from opposite side of socket-need a piece of broom handle or something about 2 ft. long to tap pins back in to make installation easier

Removed 2 screws, removed broken catch, seated new catch in correct orientation, replaced & tightened the 2 screws. Total time 2 minuets tops. Took longer to get & put away the screw driver.

The entire process, from diagnosing the problem, ordering the part, and instalation was fantastic! I ordered the part Friday afternoon and had it at my door Saturday afternoon. I was so relieved to read the installation posts from other customers demonstrating how common this issue is and how easy it was to fix! I simply watched the installation video that was sent with my confirmation email. It is also conveniently located on your website. I had the new part installed in less than 30 minutes AND before my husband got home! Thank you Partselect.com!