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Door Lock Switch Replacement
The video from PartSelect showed removing the retaining ring from the rubber washer tub boot to then allow access the door lock located behind the boot for replacement. That ring can sometimes be a real pain to put back on. This can be avoided altogether!
It's much easier to access the door lock switch by removing the two retaining screws on the top cover of the washer found in the back of the machine. Remove the top cover and you can then reach down to remove the wiring connector, unscrew the two phillips screws on the front of the door latch and remove the door lock. Put the new switch on in reverse order; plug in the connector, replace all screws and the top cover, and you are done! This method took than 10 minutes from start to finish.
Please note that the washer should be unplugged from power while working on any electrical component.
I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.
Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.
I followed the video. Everything worked exactly as described. i ran a quick cycle and everything seemed to be fine. Started a wash and the machine was going fine but stopped, and wouldn't drain. I thought that maybe it might be the Rotor Position Sensor assembly, which I had already purchased just in case.But first i drained the machine and checked out the pump filter. Plugged solid. I'm guessing when the pump went there must have been a lot of lint and debris in the machine. something you might want to check out, after that repair. Thanks. you guys saved me a couple of hundred dollars
just put new part in very simple only problem was shipping yall used fedex went to 4 states and one state twice they finally gave it to USPS so it took almost 9 days to get here
Door lock was unable to disengage - couldn't open washer door after cycle. Would cycle constantly through three clicks and be unable to open the door. Eventually had to unplug to get it to stop clicking constantly, and after some careful prying, able to release the door to access the screws we'd n
Watched the easy video instructions on the product page and did the same on our machine - pop off the top, unscrew the plate from the front of the door inset. Its a little challenging to unplug the old lock assembly because it is a tight fit and not enough room for two hands to fit to provide a bit more leverage when pulling the power lines out, but once its out it is easy to install the new one and reattach the strike plate frame and top of the washer. Plugged back in and we were back in business. This $50 part ended up saving us at least $300 in repair fees to get it working again.
Incredibly fast shipping - arrived in less than 2 days - which was really helpful as we were unable to use the washing machine until we were able to get this fixed. Excellent pricing as well. Couldn't be happier I found this site and the product I needed so easily.
It went great. First of all, thank you Part Select for the video on how to do this myself. My home warranty company was giving me a hard time. Blah, blah, blah. A mechanic friend of mine referred me to this site. Within minutes I found the part I need and a GREAT!!!! price. Ordered it, got it super fast, fixed it my self and my second hand washer is no longer peeing all over the floor. Very very happy. I will definitely be a repeat customer, hopefully not anytime soon. Thank you again for an amazing experience.
Followed instruction from you tube. Removed gasket holder, then gasket by door switch assembly then replaced with new assembly! I am a 63 woman and found this easy to do, with help from you tube guy.
My front load washer was making a loud roaring sound while spinning out the water
The repair went good but time consuming. I replaced both inner and outer tub bearings along with the tub seal. I removed top by removing two screws in back then pulling back slighty then lifting up. I removed soap tray by pressing down tab and pulling out. Loosened soap dispenser and folded back on top. I removed control panel then front door panel. Remove back panel. Remove motor and shocks and hanging springs which there are two. Disconnect the hoses attached to tub then pull the tub. Remove screws holding the tub halves together. Use punch to remove bearings. NOTE: If you put the bearings in the freezer prior to installing, they go in much easier. I used the old bearing, set it on the new bearing then I tapped the old bearing so not to damage new bearings. I replaced the seal then put everything back together. Not difficult but time consuming.
Seal on front loading washer failed, causing basket bearings to fail.
I removed the tub. Thin included disassembling the washer and disconnecting various hoses electrical connectors to facilitate the removal of the tub from the machine. Once removed, I separated the two halves of the tub and removed the metal basket to gain access to the bearings and seal. Removal of the bearings was much harder than expected as they were very difficult to drive out of their pressed in mounting. I finally was able to remove the bearings and fabricated a press using a piece of all thread and two steel plates to install the new bearings and seal. I would not attempt to do this again with the proper bearing pullers and an official press to install the bearings gently without beating the tub housing. This repair I feel is beyond the scope of your average DIY. The bearings can be damaged easily without the specialized tools to install the components.
