Models > 3ZMED5705TW0 > Instructions

3ZMED5705TW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 3ZMED5705TW0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 3ZMED5705TW0
31-45 of 711
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Drier would not heat

  • Customer: Jason from Birmingham AL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Wife said the drier was not heating. I looked on the internet and found Parts Select. Followed the instructions to test the heating element, thermal cut-offs, and thermostat. This is really easy, you just touch the terminals with the voltage meter to see which ones are not transmitting current (with the drier unplugged). One of the thermal cut-offs was not transmitting current so I ordered the part Sunday night and had it by Wednesday morning and put it on it about five minutes. Steps:

1. Unplug drier
2. Unscrew back of drier
3. Unplug wires from terminals of the parts shown in Parts Select instructions (one at a time)
4. Get a basic voltage meter (I bought a cheap one at the big box store)
5. Test terminals (touch the red terminal on the voltage meter to one side, black to the other)
6. If the needle moves to the other side, the part is OK, if not order the part and replace.

old lint screen -torn at wire mesh

  • Customer: Chris from Morgan City LA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Local stores did not have any in supply. Went to Partselect and located lint screen, ordered, received in 3 days. replaced screen, Wife now happy again...

Drum spinning but no heat

  • Customer: Chad from Derby KS
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Purchased thermal cut off kit but only replaced the top most thermostat. There were some extra wires wired into the bottom thermostat, that were not described on the video or any other repair user posts. It checked fine on my multimeter anyway.

Broken door switch

  • Customer: Michael from Maricopa AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Followed your online video for disassembly and it was not only educational but actually quite simple. I would recommend that you start the video with," make sure the power cord is disconnected from the power source". I have worked on numerous pieces of large electrical equipment and would strongly suggest this be added. Some people think if it's, "off", it's safe. Your phone staff when ordering was great. We will do business again.

No heat in dryer

  • Customer: Kenneth from Durham NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Once I unpluged the dryer and then removed the back cover, I located the heating unit and then removed the thermostat. Once that was done, I installed the new thermostat and connected the wires. I tested the dryer to make sure that it would heat. Then I replaced the back cover.

Dryer would not heat

  • Customer: Gary from Seguin TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two wires from the overheat fuse, then I removed the 1 screw and removed the fuse. I installed the new overheat fuse and attached with 1 screw, then reconnected the 2 wires. I attached the back cover with two screws and tested the dryer. It was working, so I finished attaching the back with the remaining screws and exhaust duct. Installation complete.
Note: Two weeks later I had to replace the fuse again because I had checked the duct pipe and exhaust chute, but not the bottom at the fan. Be sure to remove the flat exhaust duct and check for bulid-up at the bottom under the fan.

Push start and the motor would hum.

  • Customer: Doug from Manitowoc WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
**** Remove power cord from the wall****

As said earlier, you will need to lift the top. Drop the two screws holding the lint shoot and pop the top by sliding a screw driver into the corner on the front. Lif tthe top and rest against the wall behid the unit. remove the two (4 total) screws at the top and bottom of the front door assembly.
Place sometin under the front portion of the drum. At this point you'll see the need to clean everything! :) Slide the belt off and around the drum, (take note of the routing it takes.) Remove the drum by gently pulling it towards you. Set it aside. Clean more. :) (It is nice to have a vacuum handy.) At this point you really need to get to the rear of the system. So I tipped the top back down, and spun it around. Removed the rear panel and cleaned some more. (15 years of a lot of lint in there!) Then you'll need to remove the rear cover on the left side, covering the blower impeller. Get read for a whole lot of debris. Vacuum again. So now you have the motor exposed in the front and rear. You need to remove the impeller by turning that clockwise to loosen it. The trick is holding the shaft in place from the front at the same time. I used an old rag and wedged it into the impeller edges and worked it around until it jamed up. Once the rag was wedged pretty good, I went back to the front spun the shaft. Then you can remove the impeller by hand. Vacuum more. You may get by without having to remove the lint shoot completely, but I did just to clean it up more. I did have to remove two screws in the upper corner near the top of the lint shoot. (Basically the hold the back in place.) I took a few notes at this point about the wiring harness. Used a heavier screw driver (standard), You can push down on the clips that hold the old motor in place. Then work it out the front. Clean more. The new motor is not an exact replacement slightly differnt but the instructions with it were ok. Follow them for the correct wiring. You will need to remove one wire and cut and recrimp a spade lug or two. I used ty-wraps to secure the lines back in place. Look closely at the diagrams and make sure you set the motor down in the same direction the instructions say, if you twist it slightly it will sorta lock in place where it needs to be. Re-install the hold down clips to the front and rear of the motor. Clean up your impeller, and reinstall it too. Then basically reassemble the dryer...tracing your steps backwards. This isn't really difficult, it just takes time and as you can see, you will/should clean as you go !

Dead motor

  • Customer: Robert from Glencoe IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 12 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
1. Shut off gas and disconnected dryer.
2. Opened cabinet. Easy sheet metal screws and fairly obvious how everything goes together. NB: You'll need a block (or a helper to hold things while you run to look for one) to hold the drum while removing the front.
3. The motor is connected with a single harness, so wiring is a snap.
4. Removing the blower wheel from the back was hard. I braced the motor shaft and turned with all the leverage I could muster, but it was stuck. Plan B: Recip saw to cut the shaft. Motor comes out one side and the fan comes out the other.
5. The fan, of course, was unusable because there was still a piece of motor shaft stuck in the thread. This is why I had to spring for a new wheel.
6. Put everything back together and receive wife's adoring praise...

Old motor was making noise and tripping after a few minutes

  • Customer: John from Midland TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I disassembled the dryer once to clean the motor and compartment. After reasembly, the problem persistes. I ordered the motor and the second diasasssembly was accomplished in 10 minutes and the entire job took 45 minutes and the dryer was running like new. Tip- Leave the motor secured while removing the blower fan.

Door switch was broken

  • Customer: Anthony from Orlando FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I typed in on my brouser Repair Kitchen Aid Dryer door switch.
And on You Tube up came several videos showing me how to ewmove the switch and install the new one.

The hardest part of the job was not instaling the switch but the dryer Vent hose from the back of the dryer after I puled it away from the wall, it disconnected and the I had to Pull the Washer out which was right next to it so I could put the vent hose back to the dyer. I has to disconnect the Hot/cold water line pull the washer out connect the dyer hose reconnect the cold /hot water lines and yada yada yada

dryer would not turn off when the door is open

  • Customer: James from Webster NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
it took loess than 10 minutes to change the door switch after watching the repair video

dryer would stall and the motor would hum before tripping circuit breaker

  • Customer: Charles from Placentia CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
When the problem first came up, I took the dryer apart without first looking up any instructions. This wasn't difficult, but didn't realize when removing the fan from the motor, there is a square lug as part of the fan hidden by the rear clamp securing the motor. I was able to remove the fan by holding the motor shaft with a crescent wrench and removing the fan by hand, but was difficult and gloves were necessary in case the fan loosened quickly and my hand came in contact with the sheet metal (very sharp).

I took the motor out and attempted to clean it as it was loaded with dust as was the dryer internals. I tried to lube the motor bearings and appeared to free up, but the sight of metal shavings on the rear bearing seal had me concerned. This ultimely did not work and was trying to buy some time until the new motor arrived.

This is when I looked up the motor part number and found that Parts Select had the part number in stock. I ordered the motor on a Saturday afternoon and got a quick response acknowledging my order. The motor shipped that following Monday from Fresno and arrived on my Southern California doorstep Tuesday. These guys have their act together and are helpful in making the repairs. In my case I did not have to make any adjustments to the wiring or the pulley for my model and replaced the motor the following weekend in about 45 minutes. Since I had the unit apart several times before replacing the motor, the installation went quickly.

The dryer is again working fine for a unit 12 years old and my wife is once again happy that we didn't have to purchase a new dryer.

DRYER DIDN'T RUN

  • Customer: William from Long Valley NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
UNPLUGGED WASHER,REMOVED THE TWO SCREWS BY THE LINT TRAP,MOVED THE TOP FOWARD LIFTED THE TOP (IT'SHINGED IN THE BACK )THE SWITCH IS RIGHT INSIDE THE DOOR TOP RIGHT HAND CORNER REMOVED THE TWO SCREWS THAT HOLD THE SWITCH IN PLACE USED A FLATBLADE SCREWDRIVER TO SEPERATE THE CONNECTIONS PULLED OFF THE OLD INSTALLED THE NEW SWITCH PUT EVERY THING BACK TOGETHER WORKED AS THOUGH IT WES NEVER BROKEN

Dryer belt broke- drum would not turn

  • Customer: Ronald from Oakdale CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
This was so much easier than I though it was going to be. Pulled up on the top part of the dryer and folded it over to the back. Removed 2 screws for the front panel and disconnected some wires. Laying down I fed the new belt on and made sure the tensioner was put back into the right spot, because when the belt broke the tensioner sprung to the other end of its travel. Put everything back together. This was made super easy because you guys had the parts and the shipping was super fast. Alot of the local shops in the area didnt even carry the belt or were not helpful..

Humming noise then quit after pushing start. Drum would not turn manually.

  • Customer: Derek from Missouri City TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Looking at the schematics, it wasn't clear exactly where the motor was located. I took off the rear panel thinking I could get to the motor through the blower. Realizing that was a no-go, I did some web searching and found that the lint screen chute had to be unscrewed, the top had to be lifted to gain access to the top 2 screws holding the front panel to to the main body. The barrel was then dropped and the rib belt removed from around it so I could set it aside. The clips were removed from the front and the back of the motor to gain access to the blower shaft. .The motor shaft is screwed into the blower shaft but it took me a while to figure out how to grab the blower shaft( made of hardened plastic?) with an adjustable wrench while torquing the end of the shaft with a (3/4"?) socket wrench. Access to the rear was rough, but getting the motor out an back in was easy. The spring tensioner for the belt was the next hurdle. With the s-curve facing outward and clipped to the base, the belt with the rib side wrapped around the barrel, the belt was slid between the roller and the tensioner bracket and wrapped around the motor drive rib side inward. I had to take the old motor to kind of prop up the barrel so I could at least see the tensioner and motor interface. I had to do a balance trick where I held the barrel up while centering it to the belt and the rear panel while ensuring the cloth seal was seated to the outside of the chamber. The front panel went on, and the front cloth seal was seated by spinning the barrel. The rest was just a matter of reversing the steps. Tons of lint/dust is probably what crashed this motor. Disassembling the front and the back allowed a thorough clean up - vacuuming and wipe down. Should go another 10 years/
All Instructions for the 3ZMED5705TW0
31-45 of 711