3RLEQ8000KQ0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Removed the top panel of the dryer via a couple of screws from the rear. Remove the rear panel swing it open light a door to the right, minding the electrical connections. Removed the belt from the pulley, removed the Tri-ring from the shaft and slid the pulley off of the shaft. The shaft was slightly rusted so I used a steel brush and brake cleaner to clean it up, placed the new gasket, pulley, and tri-ring on, replaced the belt, and put the panels back into place. As the dryer is about 7 years old, also removed the front lower panel and cleaned out unit which had quite a bit of accumulated dust and glitter especially in the vent lines. (3 girls live here). Pretty easy, most screws remove with just the one tool.

remove&replace

After disassembling, I orderedparts.was told it could be the thermal fuse.found that the belt was broken.disassembly was simply removing screws, but as a novice, it was difficult to determine what to remove and how to remove only what was needed.after watching your video, it was much easier.replaced thermal fuse and belt.made sure to clean lint from motor and interior of dryer as well as vent lines and vent blower.the old machine works fine, until something else goes.

there were 5 ,1/4 screws in the back panel . The heater box was right at the rear when the back was removed.. Replaced the two controls that were in the kit with a 1/4 nut driver. Checked the terminals for tightness and contact. No discoloration on contacts. Ran unit after reassembly for 20 min cycle to test ,Put into service

replace the burnt fuse.

My front- loading dryer is 4 years old and lint screen felt liner never lasted long without falling out. When I received my Part Select I knew the quality surpasses manufacture screen. It is so much better and we are your new customers forever Thank you Cheryl

take back from dryer all parts right in front of face replace part and try dryer and it work just like it said

UNPLUG UNIT FIRST!!! Removed back cover. Make sure to note not all screws hold the back cover by closely observing the screw. Take a picture of the belt routing before removing from the idler pulley. Use headlamp or flashlight to light up pulley area. Remove belt from idler pulley by pushing idler assembly towards the right. Use small screwdriver to remove the existing pulley by prying off the existing tri-ring from the back of the pulley. You may have to "feel" the ring since it in facing away from you. Once tri-ring is removed, slide off old pulley and gasket or old second tri-ring. Replace with gasket first, then pulley then tri-ring. Reroute belt. Use picture if needed. Replace back cover.

I checked all the thermostats with a OHM meter and found a bad sensor it was pretty simple using U tube as a guide and the parts were here in a day and a half I'm now getting ready to replace the transmission in my GE washer

I ordered kit to your recomendation, took machine appart as per your video (Very helpful), put machine back together only to find that that was not the problem.No other recomendation as to what else I should.

Tool of the back & cross brackets. I did not have to mass with electric panel. I did not have to remove the drum.

Just took the old one out and slipped the new one in! That's it! That easy. Thank you!

I highly recommend the videos on this site for repair information. It wasn't exact for the age/model of my dryer but very close. Remove the top panel and then the control panel. Remove the lower front panel and finally the door and main front panel. Unloop the belt from the motor and remove the drum. I found one of the drum rollers was bad, which was causing my problem, but I replace all 4 rollers, the belt, and the idler wheel. Sounds like it did when it was new! Find the video for your model and watch it!!

It was all put together... I just switched them!

this belt is too thin for the capacity of this dryer.I had only removed the front panel,replaced the belt and immediately the dryer start.