3RAWZ481EML1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Remove wire terminals, & four screws, install new parts. Very simple fix! This is the second time I've used Parts Select to fix my appliances. Very satisfied customer!

When the part came in my husband was not home and I figured I could put this part on myself. I took the part downstairs, used the nut driver to remove one screw, took the two wires off the old therma fuse, put the wires on the new therma fuse, and screwed the new therma fuse onto the back of the dryer. It really couldn't have been any easier.

took of the back , took out the drying coil ,put the other in , but back on . now it works saved alot of money. love it. Thank you parts select.

First I removed the front kick panel to observe the drum and blower to see that both were running. I watched the element inside the heat can as well, and saw that it wasn't receiving a current (no heat, wasn't glowing). First thing I did was test the element itself by removing it from the heat can, and with a multimeter set to its lowest ohm setting, touched both terminal ends to check for continuity. The MM read 0 so it was fine. I then removed and tested the thermal fuse and the relay on the blower in the same fashion, removing them and checking them for continuity. They were fine also. I then moved on to the thermal limiter and relay on the heat can, and that's where I found a broken current. After installing both parts on the heat can, I observed the element receiving a current and the problem was fixed. I've done several loads since then and it is drying better than ever. Problem solved, for now.

This has happened several times to my KitchenAid dryer. It cost more than $100 to bring someone in to repair. Fortunately, I saved my bills and saw the part "thermal fuse" listed. I researched that and found your website. I couldn't believe how easy it was to fix. The part cost less than $15 and the diagrams you provided were a big help. I was about to purchase a new dryer, easily $500. Your site saved me a bunch of money. How I fixed? Unscrewed the back panel of the dryer. Found a part that resembled the part you sent me. Slipped it out. Put the new one in...that is it. I also figured that one reason the part keeps burning out is because my duct has to bend to get to the outside vent. The obstruction probably causes the dryer to overheat more often than not. I pulled the dryer 6 inches more away from the wall to see if that helps. My fuse was going out about every 2 years.

Was working fine one load and not the next. I remembered we had used this site for our dishwasher so gave it a try. Went with most common problem first. Ordered Sun rec'd Tues. Took longer to vacuum the back of dryer then it did to replace the fuse. Cost less than 30 bucks including shipping. Video was cool too.

i still cant get it to start i keep having that 06 code revision after i ran the diagnostic i replace the thermistor right after that the dryer start but only dry one load and wont start again then i replace the thermal fuse still not working i order the door switch hopefully that might do it

Previous consumer help advised to check the Thermal Fuse. A quick check using an ohm meter or simply connecting the leads together, confirmed that the Fuse was open and bad. The other essential item is to clean & vacuum all lint from all other dryer parts on the top, drum & back of the dryer. Be sure to also perform a check of the Cycling Thermostat, located near the Thermo Fuse. This is not a difficult repair. Just be sure to disconnect the 220 V and the circuit breaker. A $9 fuse was better than the cost of a repairman or new dryer. Barry Burke, Cincinnati, Ohio.

I put my mind into the repair based on what I saw for a problem and what was given for advise. I was steered toward the thermal fuse, ordered and installed it. Not repaired, in checking the power backward to the panel I found that the dedicated panel had one side blown still allowing for the motor to run but not the element. hmmm

I found some help on-line that suggested some of the most likely causes. The on-line videos showed how to remove clips/panels to access the parts. Once I found the possibly failed parts, door switch and thermal fuse, I did a quick continuity check and found that the thermal fuse had an open circuit.

Took off the backplate of dryer, replaced fuse, done.

My way of replacing the pulley was much faster than the parts select video that showed how to replace the belt tension-er pulley. They took off the door, the entire front AND the drum to get to the pulley. I ACCESSED THE PULLEY BY REMOVING THE 4 INCH EXHAUST PIPE, (ONE SCREW) WHICH GAVE MORE THAN ENOUGH OPENING TO REPLACE THE NEARBY PULLEY! I suggest you remake that video

took the back panel off by unscrewing all the little nuts..replaced thermal fuse and put back panel and screws back on...

Six(6) screws were removed to separate the front and rear sections of the dryer door to get access to the rear of the catch.Pliers were used to maneuver the catch through the opening in the cabinet from the rear. The new catch was easily snapped into the catch opening from the front of the door.

Used wire schematic and locate thermal fuse. Disconnect power and remove rear panel. About 8 screws. Remove the two wires from fuse and check fuse continunity. Fuse was open and prevented power from going to gas solenoids. Replace fuse and clean exhaust ducts. Dirty ducts might have caused fused to over heat.