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3LGR5434BN1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 3LGR5434BN1
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Dryer stopped working completely
Diagnosed the problem on parts select, ordered the part and watched the youtube video on how to install and done! Super easy - thanks for boosting my "chicks can fix anything" mojo and saving me a bunch of $$.
Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • Mary from Norwalk, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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No heat, took a while to diagnose
Saw no heat, web said probably the fuse. Replaced the fuse. Nope. Second guess was the thermostat at the exhaust. Replaced that. Nope. Finally got to actively troubleshooting and isolated one of the thermostats near the heating element. Replaced that and everything is fine. So now I have a good spare fuse and thermostat for the next repair. There was one tool I wished I had, a socket small enough to open the back. I had to use pliers and that was a pain. Other than that the repair was almost trivial, just unplug the bad one and plug in the good one.
Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • Matt from Newark, DE
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
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dryer would not heat up
Removed back panel of the dryer and located the thermal fuse. Disconnected two wires, and removed one screw holding the fuse in place. Installed new fuse and reassembled. Dryer works like a champ again.
Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • Anthony from Leander, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Loud screaching sound when dryer started running
removed front panel and drum and replaced drum support rollers
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Support Roller Kit
  • John from Bluffton, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Dryer would not start after it had been opened to remove an item.
Disconnect the power cord. Unhook the dryer vent hose. Remove the back. Find the Thermal Fuse. Use a ratchet and socket to remove socket head screw that holds the Thermal Fuse in place. Disconnect one of the two wires from the old Thermal Fuse and attach the wire to the new Thermal Fuse ensuring the wire is placed on the same end of the new Thermal Fuse as the old Thermal Fuse. Repeat procedure for the remaining wire and screw Thermal Fuse back in place. Replace the back, reattach the dryer vent hose and connect the power cord.
Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • Leonard from Covington, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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Lint Chute and Lint Trap Seals had Deteriorated
The on-line instructions were excellent; however, the man doing the demonstration used a brand new machine - not one where the old seals had melted and dried out and required serious cleaning before attaching the new seals. The new seals went on easily and I am very happy with everything about this task. I am also glad I now know what that lint chute looks like, so I'll do a better job of keeping it clean in the future.
Parts Used:
SEAL Lint Trap Housing Seal
  • Robert from Melbourne, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Lould nosie from Drum Whells
I watch and followed the three viedos that PartSelect emailed me and had a very easy repair job.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Assembly Rear Drum Support Roller Kit Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • FRANCIS from PHILADELPHIA, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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The dryer does not heat
I just knew it had to be the heat sensor unable to activate the actual ignition. I following the directions and video for the installation of the heat sensor #PS344761. It went very smoothly. Upon completion of the installation, the click, then the flame roared to life and I felt like a real do-it-selfer!! This was short lived. The wetness of the clothes had no effect. Something I did not do and I certainly know better was to check and see what was taking place before I replaced the "damaged" sensor. No, I was just so sure there was no need of that. You say, put the old back in and watch what happens....I recycled the old one immediately. Sigh! We have had two weeks of rain and I'm really tired of damp clothes everywhere. I will read other alternatives and report back. DClark, TX
Parts Used:
Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
  • Diana from Nassau Bay, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Dryer belt broke
Pulled up a You-Tube vid on how to install the belt. Went perfect.
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • John from Lexington, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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One Roller failed, causing loud noice eventually breaking the belt
Reviewed video on how to disassemble appliance by removing drum. Removed both rollers, replaced both rollers, installed drum with new belt, test ran it w/o gas attached, so quiet a baby can sleep beside it.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Support Roller Kit
  • Mark from Flanders, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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the clothes drum stopped turning
i first watched a video on U-Tube and did exactly as they did. removed screws from the lint tray, pried up the top panel of the dryer with my putty knife, unscrewed the 2 hex screws at the top, disconnected the plug for the dryer door,and installed the new belt it really was pretty easy. the only thing I would recomend would be when installing the belt put towel or anything that would protect your arm from the botttom piece of sheet metal. I got a pretty good cut on my forearm while I was putting the belt on the bottom pully.
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Joseph from E.Northport, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Would not heat clothes dry
unplugged dryer and removed front panel. removed the screw that holds flame sensor and unplugged electrical wires. then replaced with new. Did not solve problem so I ordered the replacement coil kit and installed them using phillips screw driver and this solved problem. Dryer is working fine now. I found this site very helpful and would recommend it to a friend.
Parts Used:
Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
  • rick from Burton, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Dryer was making loud noises while it dried clothes
Drum support roller bearrings went out. Had to replace drum support rollers! It's like a new dryer now!!
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Support Roller Kit
  • Karrie from Cypress, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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Dryer would heat up for a short time, then shut off
First I replace the Radiant Flame Sensor, but the problem remain. Then replace the two coils and the igniter. Dryer works like it should. If I were to do it over, I would have replaced all 4 components to start with. Thanks for good advice and great service.
Parts Used:
Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
  • David M from Watertown, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Broken belt and bent idler pulley
First unplug the unit. Take the lint filter out and remove the two Phillips-head screws at the edge of the opening. Then using the putty knife to unlatch the top panel of the dryer, insert it into the seam on the front about 3" from each side. When you feel the knife up-against the latch, apply a little inward pressure with the knife and pull up on the top panel. When you release both sides the panel, it will lift up and back against the wall(secure it so it doesn't fall forward while you are doing this repair). Looking down on the right-front corner you will find a connection for the door switch, Dis-connect it. Just below that connection, on the inside, is a 5/16" screw that holds the front panel on, take that one and another one just like it on the left side, out and the front will fall forward about an inch and then you will lift up on the panel while holding drum in place. Inspect the clips that hold the bottom of the panel on and be aware how the panel attaches to them. Try to keep the drum in place and set the front panel off to the side so you can easily grab it to put it back on. Looking under the drum remove the belt and idler pulley. The pulley is usually not in the position it should be in, it likes to fall over when it has no belt pressure on it. Hopefully you had already unpackaged the new belt and straightened it out. Loop the belt over the drum, rib side to the drum, and move it to where the old belt had been riding on the drum. Back under the drum, you should hold it in place with your shoulder, with idler pulley in hand-- install the idler pulley. There's probable a clean spot where the old one was and the humpback should point to the right side of the dryer. With right hand steadying the idler pulley, the left hand should pinch the belt together and feed it under the wheel and pull it out and hook it on the motor pulley. It may seem to be a tight fit but once its on you should be able grab the outside edge of the drum and slowly turn it without hearing any scraping noises. Double check that the belt isn't twisted. Before putting the front panel back on or if you had to take the drum out, make sure the felt seal on the back edge of the drum is not folded inward. the wheels that the drum roll on must be in the groove. Carefully reach to the back to check that they are in the groove of the drum. If everything seems to be in place, hold the drum with one hand and grab the front panel with other. Place the bottom of the panel against the unit and lift up about an inch and place the square holes at the bottom of the panel on the clips on the unit, it may take a couple of tries, then lean the panel forward making sure the drum goes around the felt seal on the panel. Once the panel is against the unit , install the two 5/16 screws securing the front panel to the unit. Turn the drum by hand to make sure drum was installed properly. Reconnect door switch. Lower top panel and push down to secure it. Install the two Phillips head screws at the edge of where the lint screen goes, install lent screen and plug the unit back into the wall socket.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Assembly Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Mollie from Walterboro, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the 3LGR5434BN1
1021 - 1035 of 1245