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Dryer would not stop - Would heat and dry but never shut off
Replaced the Thermal Fuse first - 30% chance - didn't help! Then I replaced the resistor - Not an in-kind replacement - looks different-Guessed the wrong place first [no specific directions :( ] and got some sparks - Yikes! Picked the second place and installed the resistor and it work PERFECT. Spent Less than $50 and back in business = GREAT!!
The repair was really easy and I loved the DIY videos they were great, not many tools needed to do these repairs that was great. The only thing is this didn't solve my issue.
Dryer belt worn out, rear seal worn replaced drum baffle
Unplugged unit and removed top and front of dryer. Removed drum and belt. noting how belt ran through the belt tension-er. Removed old felt seal from rear of drum. Replaced broken baffle, replaced rear seal. reinstalled belt. Put unit back together and test ran.
Poor drying and took excessive amount of time to complete partially dried loads
Took back cover off. Cleaned out the lint that had built up inside the dryer. Replaced the lint trap housing and lint chute seals. Also replaced the drying vent hose. Works great now.
The wiring on the new motor is not compatible with older motor (ours is over 30 years old) so we had to clip off old connectors and wire on new ones. There was only one motor clamp (should have read description more closely). The new one was difficult to put on. This would only be a one hour job if
Numbet one - unplugged the dryer. Then disassembled dryer (front panel, loosened vent from top panel and removed drum). Removed motor after carefully documenting wires and their corresponding numbers, along with pictures. Read directions several times to assure we understood process. Followed instructions for replacing connectors. Used pliers and screwdriver to install motor clips. This took numerous, patient attempts. We also had to partially remove the vent in order to reinstall the motor. Then replaced drum, front cover, reattached vent to top cover. Reattached outside vent hose. Plugged dryer in and tested it. Motor replacement worked fine and fixed the problem (squealing).
Take out 2 philips screws in lint trap holder on top. Use flat screwdriver to pry up front left and right of dryer top near outside edges and tilt up out of the way. Remove 2 push-on AC connectors on door switch and remove plastic clip holding wires to dryer's front top metal edge. Remove (2) 5/16" sheet metal screw on inside top left and right edges to free up front panel. Lift front panel about an inch and it'll then pull off. It helps to have a second person to help hold or remove the drum at this point. It took 3 times for me to guess right on the squeak. First time I replaced the belt, second time I replaced these rollers, third and final time I replaced the idler pulley, the shaft of which had worn completely off so clearly i can't figure out how we didn't see (or hear) it the first two times! Dri-Slide lube helped stop the squeaking the first two times, but it always returned until this time, now I have a thoroughly rebuilt dryer for the next generation! (PS vacuum out the bottom of the dryer while it's open to remove both lint and greasy roller shavings - do this FIRST and you'll have cleaner hands & clothes!)
I did what any novice would have done. I took the entire thing apart to get to the gas jet. I did not know about the thermal fuse until I got to the schematic behind the timer and controls. I was a tech back in the 70's and 80's and only worked on electric dryers. Back then I would remove the heater core and twist the coils together to save money. So I had no idea how a gas dryer heating unit worked. So now any one that reads this. You do not have to take the dryer completely apart, I did that for all of you. Just replace the thermal fuse on the back of the unit by unplugging that wires and removing the screws! It looks like a long white piece of plastic with 2 wires to it. You will find this under the full metal shield on the back of the unit. This should be about a 1 hour repair at the most!
I simply removed the rear panal of the dryer. Removed the two wires from the fuse at the rear of the dryer. Attached an OEM meter across the two fuse connections and had no continuity. Ordered a new fuse and recieved it in 2.5 days.Replaced the fuse,reconnected the wires and replaced the rear panal. Started dryer and it now blows hot air and runs like new. I can't say enough about PartSelect. Great diagnosis using their website, the delivery was fast and I recieved the correct part at a good price. Very satisfied, Thanks PartSelect. Fred F
Raised the top of the dryer then took the front of the dryer off. Took the drum off. Replaced the pulley and support rollers. Then, put the new belt on and put it back together.
Found that when the dryer continued to run after the door was opened that the door switch had gone bad. I unpluged the Dryer, opened the top of the dryer to get access to the switch by lifting top up with fingers and a gentle prying of a flat screwdriver to release spring clips holding it down. I then unplugged the wires from the switch and removed the 2 screws that held the switch in. Then reverse this process when you get your new switch from part select (which we received in 2 days) and the total time to fix it took aprox. 10-15 min. total to do. Easy fix for ANY handy person at home!
I removed the top panel, then the front panel. Removed the belt and the drum. Saw what I needed to replace. Ordered the parts then put back together. It was a really easy job.
Followed the PartSelect instruction video. Basically opened the dryer. Took the drum out. Took the broken motor out. cleanned the dryer since I had everything opened. Replaced motor, pulley, old belt. My 20 years old dryer is running like brand new.
I watched the video or I would have likley just called a repair man. It took longer to clean behind the dryer than to install the new thermal fuse. After taking the back off the dryer is was as simple as changing a fuse. Dryer works like new for about $20 bucks and we avoided the hasle of getting a repair man, especially since we live in the country. Thanks for having a web site that is so easy to use and full of good information.
I am a teacher and teaching is my game. I have always, with my four children, taught them to do mechanical work themselves. I and most of my children have a PhD, but in having said that, I confess, we come from a very mechanically talented family. It shows and proves to be of great benefit. OK, so much for the intro.
I gave my daughter the tools and said, "What do you think is wrong with the dryer and where would you start?" She tested it and said, "The motor is running, but the tub is not turning thus I conclude it is the belt because I can hear the motor running eliminating that as a cause.
She then opened the top, looked around and removed two screws from the lint catcher. She looked it over, looked a me, I shrugged my shoulders and she then took a rubber hammer and popped the top off. Don't ask me how she knew that, but I think she saw the rubber pins through the crack between the case and top. She raised the top after removing two screws in back to relieve the simple hinge and also disconnected the wiring clip and sure enough, the broken belt was inside the cabinet. We called you, the best, fastest and most accurate service on the Internet and ordered a replacement. I would like to add, the price is always more than fair and delivery very prompt.
When the part came, my daughter took it up to our laundry room and within twenty minutes, she tested it and everything was fine. She did smell a little burning smell which might be attributed to a new belt or the fact that there was no clothing in the dryer. Thank you so very much. Dr Robert E McGinnis
![](https://partselectcom-gtcdcddbene3cpes.z01.azurefd.net/346995-1-S-Whirlpool-341241-Multi-Rib-Belt-92-1-4-amp-quot.jpg "Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" – Part Number: 341241")
