3LCGD9100WQ2 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

I took rear panel off with a nutdriver 8 screws.disconnected the 2 wires that went to thermal fuse and removed 1 screw holding it in place.replaced thermal fuse and reconnected wires and rear panel.turned dryer on. had heat. walk in the park!

Step 1: remove new latch from bag in which part comes. Step 2: push latch into hole where the other latch was. Step 3: enjoy having a dryer you dont have to hold closed with a folding chair.

Could not be any easier. For less than $20 and 15 minutes time, I couldnt be happier.
All that was needed is a nutdriver to remove a 1/2 dozen screws to take the back panel off. Then a phillips screw driver to remove the thermal fuse. Unplug 2 wires and then attach them to the new fuse. Put it all back together and done!. Working dryer.
PS: I had enough gas line and ducting connected to the dryer ,so thatt I was able to get behind it with out removing them. This may have taken another 15 min. if I needed to do this and two adjustable wrenches.

I checked the thermal fuse for continuity and had none.ordered part arrived next day. I took a picture with phone to idenify wires. installed in a short time.dryer works like new

remove&replace

To make sure the dryer didn't die catastrophically, I checked to make sure the timer, the light, and the push to start start switch and the door switch were still working. After they were diagnosed to be working properly, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it back from the wall so I would have enough room to work behind it. The first item you will need is the wiring diagram. If you do not have one, one can be obtained online by using your dryer brand and model number. The next thing you will need is a quality digital multimeter that measures resistance or continuity. The last thing you will need is a 1/4" nutdriver. The first thing you will need to do is remove the exhaust tube from the back of the dryer. The second step is to remove a small black plate located near a green ground screw. The 3rd step is to remove the large black cover on the back of the dryer. Once this is removed, you will need to locate the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is a small component that has 2 blue wires connected to it. It is located on the housing where the steam from your clothes leads to the exhaust port. The first thing you need to do is disconnect the 2 blue wires. Once the wires are disconnected, set the multimeter to resistance. The unit of resistance is ohms and the greek letter omega is used. The red lead of your multimeter goes one metal tabe of the fuse and the black lead goes on the other one. If the multimeter measures 0. L ohms, then the fuse is bad and needs to be replaced. If the multimeter reads 00.00 ohms then the fuse is good and you have another problem. I hope these instructions were useful.

Initially confused by instructions provided in that it stated to loosen a brass coupler. Disconnected power. Removed front bottom panel. Disconnected both leads to ingiter. Removed the 2 screws holding igniter bracket in place. Carefully slid igniter and bracket forward and removed from dryer. Removed screw holding ingiter and replaced with new. Reinstalled in reverse.

Watched several videos online and was suggested that the thermal fuse was bad, so i replaced it but no fix. So i checked the previews Q&A from other costumers and watched the videos on how to replace different parts. I first looked thru the peep hole on the bottom left part of the dryer and saw the igniter glow for about 10 sec every minute but no flame would start. So i replaced the igniter, the flame sensor, and the coils all at once. I know thats not the proper way to troubleshoot something but i was gonna take the drum out and everything so mind as well replace them all. Dryer works like new and dont have to listen to the wife complaint anymore!!!

Took the back cover off. Replaced fuse and put the cover back on. Worked great.

Watched steve on the video on changing the thermistor a couple times, it appeared to be straight forward replacement. Unplugged the dryer. . . Went through the front, my lent filter slides in and out from the lid so I had too remove two extra screws to detach it. After opening up the front it became very apparent my thermistor was not located in the same location as the one in the video. Dryer needed a cleaning (lint/dust) so I released the idler pully tension on the drum belt and went ahead and removed the drum/belt and shop vac/ blew with compressed air and shop vac once again. Gave my dryer a much needed cleaning since I had it apart. Put everything back together in about 20 mins. Pulled the dryer away from the wall and removed rear cover and presto there it was right next to the dryer air outlet. Replaced thermistor and replaced back cover, inspected out flex hose on dryer outlet, I clean it out (flex) yearly to prevent problems. Reattached flex on both ends, re-positioned dryer, plugged back in, and works great! Definitely fixed my problem. . . Replacing the drum by myself was a bit difficult. Still do able (there's a video on that also. . )

I ordered the Thermal Fuse, as it appeared to be the problem. A friend suggested that as long as the price was fairly reasonable, I should go ahead and get two of them and keep one for later. I ordered/paid for two of them. I put the Thermal Fuse in, and when I attempted to turn the dryer on, it ran for about 5 minutes, at a very hot heat, dried the towels, and then would not come on again. I thought it had kicked the circuit breaker, but after checking, found it hadn't. I watched the youtubes.com again and found that there were three other parts that it could possibly be. I ordered them, and replaced all of them. One of them had 4 prongs but two on the new one. I left two wires off, and sure enough, it would not run. I borrowed an ohm meter, and found out my old part was still good, but that in the process it had blown the Thermal Fuse, of which I just happened to have an extra, and after installing it, it is now in perfect running order. The total repair was about $80-100, rather than a $75.00 bill for service and heaven only knows for the parts at the repairman's price! Thanks youtube, Parts Select and my friend for his advice! Walter

My front- loading dryer is 4 years old and lint screen felt liner never lasted long without falling out. When I received my Part Select I knew the quality surpasses manufacture screen. It is so much better and we are your new customers forever Thank you Cheryl

I repaired this dryer after I did a little research online to learn about the thermal fuse. I took the back off the dryer and used the Fluke meter to test the thermal fuse for continuity. There wasn't any. I left the dryer disassembled and ordered the part. It arrived two days later. I installed it and reassembled the dryer in just a few minutes. It was a pretty simple repair.

1. Shut off power to dryer 2. Remove back panel covers with 1/4" nut driver 3. Use ohm meter to determine continuity at various thermal couples (3) and the one thermal fuse on the blower panel. . (This was the "bad "one in my case) 4. Remove two wires and remove the one screw that holds fuse. Did not have the model# for dryer, so I took the part# from the blown fuse and found it at partselect. Com. . They even showed an exact picture of the part I needed. . Ordered on tuesday/arrived by fed x on saturday. . . Reverse procedure to install. .

Follow instructions from online video supplied by Parts Select. Repair went very smooth!! Dryer started up and I am back in business. Thank You Parts Select!