3HLER5437JQ1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

My dryer was made so the fan was not removable and I had to reach through a narrow opening in behind the fan housing to put the belt on the motor pulley. The problem I encountered was that I could only use one hand to push against the idler pulley spring while at the same time try to catch the belt and slip it under the idler pulley. It repeatedly slipped off and every time it did the spring and idler pulley would come loose, and I would have to realign the the idler pulley shaft and attach the spring. After the fifth time I left the spring off, pushed the idler pulley shaft all the way in and put scratch a mark on the shaft on the inside of the first hole it enters. Next I drilled 1/16" hole in the shaft where I marked it, installed the spring and idler pulley then slipped a small cotter pin in the hole I drilled. Now if it slips off I only need to reach back and push the idler pulley up and catch the belt.

I tried all standard tricks: checking circuitry, switches, etc. Then I read other submissions on your site, which suggested this thermal fuse was the culprit on almost 50% of cases. I got yours in 2 days, installed in no time, easy as pie. One caution: it will take an entire day if you forget to close the dryer door completely.

Disassembled front & top of dryer, removed drum & replaced belt, idler pulley & one support wheel (which was the problem). Reassembled drum, top, & front of dryer. Tested good, much quieter.

I followed instructions from video -- although the model used in the video was different, the approach was similar. Really the only difficulty was laying on my back (72 years old) and, with one hand and through feel alone (work area was not visible), getting the belt on the drive sprocket and the spring loaded wheel.

Must remove 2 screws in the lint screen port anchoring the top of the dryer. Next the front panel of the dryer is removed from the machine by pulling up with a putty knife disassembling the clip holding the front in place. 2 more screws are then removed holding front panel of the dryer. The doors sensor switch is then removed freeing the front panel to be removed. At this point after the front panel is off and the top of the dryer lifts in an upwards position and you can now see the tub and the broken belt. The belt has to be reinserted around the tub into the pulley assembly before being pulled onto the motor. The pulley lifts upward towards the tub if it was put on correctly. It has to be placed underneath the pulley in order to have tension put on the belt firming the connection between the tub and motor. To reassemble just reverse what you have taken off in that order. Their is a DYI video which shows the process perfectly. Have a good one !

Went thru all the electrical connections, finally checked the thermal fuse. . It was the culprit. Next time I start there. Unlike older dryers, where one component gos such as the drum belt or the heating element and its only 2 years old. This thermal fuse shuts down the entire unit when it malfunctions

I took rear panel off with a nutdriver 8 screws.disconnected the 2 wires that went to thermal fuse and removed 1 screw holding it in place.replaced thermal fuse and reconnected wires and rear panel.turned dryer on. had heat. walk in the park!

Thousand dollars for a new dryer or twenty bucks for a new belt. Thank-you parts select. Ordering was easy and the instructions were bang on!

What a pain in the butt to route the belt thru the tensioner! There's room for only one hand in there. The guys who do this for a living must have some secret. My solution was to drill a 3/16 hole thru the side, make a j-hook from 8-32 threaded rod, use that and a wing nut to pre-load the tensioner, route the belt, then slowly back off the wing nut until the belt was tight. It works. . . .

Watched several videos online and was suggested that the thermal fuse was bad, so i replaced it but no fix. So i checked the previews Q&A from other costumers and watched the videos on how to replace different parts. I first looked thru the peep hole on the bottom left part of the dryer and saw the igniter glow for about 10 sec every minute but no flame would start. So i replaced the igniter, the flame sensor, and the coils all at once. I know thats not the proper way to troubleshoot something but i was gonna take the drum out and everything so mind as well replace them all. Dryer works like new and dont have to listen to the wife complaint anymore!!!

Pop off the top , Then one screw holds each side . slide belt around drum and then preload tensioner as per instructions . Simple!

Took the back cover off. Replaced fuse and put the cover back on. Worked great.

I ordered the Thermal Fuse, as it appeared to be the problem. A friend suggested that as long as the price was fairly reasonable, I should go ahead and get two of them and keep one for later. I ordered/paid for two of them. I put the Thermal Fuse in, and when I attempted to turn the dryer on, it ran for about 5 minutes, at a very hot heat, dried the towels, and then would not come on again. I thought it had kicked the circuit breaker, but after checking, found it hadn't. I watched the youtubes.com again and found that there were three other parts that it could possibly be. I ordered them, and replaced all of them. One of them had 4 prongs but two on the new one. I left two wires off, and sure enough, it would not run. I borrowed an ohm meter, and found out my old part was still good, but that in the process it had blown the Thermal Fuse, of which I just happened to have an extra, and after installing it, it is now in perfect running order. The total repair was about $80-100, rather than a $75.00 bill for service and heaven only knows for the parts at the repairman's price! Thanks youtube, Parts Select and my friend for his advice! Walter

After removing the back, I realized I absolutely did not know what I was doing. I went to google put in my model number, and went to your web page. The rest is history. Went to the video watched it and went back to the dryer and after cleaning up the back, put it back and removed the top and front as per video. The parts came in a few days and replaced the belt and idler arm n about 2 min. I am not kidding. The wife held the drum while I put the front back on. One thing I could not separate the door switch so I just unscrewed it from the fron panel. The dryeris 20 years old, and your web page will put the Maytag repairman on the unemployment line.

Watched the repair video once, it was real informative and easy to follow. The repair took about 30 minutes to complete. The video went step by step. Had no problems what so ever. Made the reapir and turned the dryer on and let it run for a few minutes and once again had all the heat I needed to make it operate correctley. I recomend that once you see your dryer is not dring your clothes like it once did, replace these parts. I let this go on for a year thinking my wife was putting way to many clothes in the dryer. It was not that at all. No telling how much money we could have saved on our electric bill by replacing these parts sooner. $30 dollars for the parts, I bet we spent that much a week on extra drying cycles. What used to take 2-3 cycles to dry now only takes one cycle. Runs just like it did when we purchased it.I will buy from this site again, easy to use all the information you need to make the repair and prompt shipping. Awesome site.