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the nozzle on the water spigot broke
we read on this site how to run the tube down thru the door but we had some problems. we used tape to put together the old and new hose to snake it down and the old hose pulled apart from the new and was stuck in the hole at the bottom of the door. my husband propped up the door and took the bottom hinge off to get to the hole where the tape was stuck and I was able to get a hold of it to finish pulling it through. I think we had to thick of tape wrapped around the two pieces.
my drum was broken and would not put ice down to be used
I could not have done it without reading the repair story about this same issue. I DID take a digital picture before taking the blades out and that was helpful. NO ONE, except in the repair story, ever mentioned the reverse screw to get the blades off. It simply made it possible for me. I fixed it!!!! I am a 69 year old widow who loves crushed ice, so I am happy!! The PartSelect service is great!
Ice flap door closing mechanism very slow and noisy
Unplug refrigerator. 1. Using a thin screwdriver, slowly and carefully pry the front panel off that is around the ice and water dispensers starting at the bottom. Once the bottom side has been popped off, carefully lift up on the panel until the top tabs pop loose. 2. Remove the next panel (5 screws) which holds the light and two switches with a screwdriver or nut driver. I then taped it over to the side onto the freezer handle to keep it out of the way. I preferred not to unplug anything. 3. Remove the door mechanism with a nut driver. The same screw holds the water spout and door mechanism together. 4. Reverse the steps and you're done! I now have a silent ice door.
Freezer work perfectly, Refrigerator Stopped getting cold, water line froze, there was ice Forming around the condenser in the bottom of the refrigerator behind the drawers
Freezer worked great, refrigerator stopped getting cold and lots of ice formed around the condenser on the bottom of the refrigerator. First I had a serious ice issue, ice build up around the bottom of the refrigerator and all through the cold air vents, condenser and cooling fan. I unplugged of the fridg and let defrost over night. I also took all the cold air vents out and cleaned them. Then I followed the switch install video very simple switch install. Now the Refrigerator works Great nice and cold.
Freezer Temp was -20 to -30 degrees F. and did not defrost because of the extreme low temperatures.
The Video on U tube was helpful. I have a side by side model and it was difficult to work in such tight quarters to attach the new part . I found that by removing the cable assembly it was much easier to attach (cut and crimp) the new part on the outside , then reinsert the assembly. The new part resolved my problem. Don't panic when you try and remove the cable assembly. Hope this is helpful.
Refrigerator door on a side by side unit would not stay closed.
First empty the shelves on the refrig. door. Then removed the upper hing cover and removed the three screws holding the hinge to the body of the refrigerator. Lifted the door off the bottom hinge and placed it clear of the unit. Inspected the bottom hinge and cleaned off the screw holding the closing cam, then with a nutdriver removed the screw holding the cam and removed the cam from the hinge. Installed a new cam closer, secured the cam with a screw. Hanged the door back on the lower hinge and re-installed the upper hinge. Job Complete!
The plastic part that connects the fresh cold water to the ice maker in back of the fridge cracked. Do to the fact that Whirlpool has the part stick out on the back top part of the fridge. So if you push the fridge just an inch too far back the plastic part will crack. I ordered (The Part S&H)- came to about, $11.00.
1. Turned off the cold water under the sink. 2. In the back of the freezer section. I unscrewed the two screws that held the old broken part to the fridge. 3. I opened the freezer section and cleared out the top shelf till I could see the back of the fridge. 4. I removed the old plastic part by pushing & wiggling it about forward and it then extended out the back of the freezer side and then I pulled it out the back and it came out. 5. I slid the new replacement part in basically the reverse of step 4. 6. I connected the hose in the back. To the new, replacement plastic part, that fills the automatic ice tray with water.
7. Once finished I glued a small 2”x2” piece of wood next to the new part so the fridge will never get too close to the back wall so to never break that part that sticks out again. Before just a small bump could break the part and water is everywhere and this leak could happen slowly at first and the next day what a mess. Some fridges have this part recessed into the back of the fridge so this would never happen as my other fridge has. Also, this might seem like more work then it was. It was very simple. I was scared I'd screw it up, but just did it step by step. If I had someone do it. It would have cost me a bundle. It took more time to type this, then to do the work. I had no instructions to follow, but again, was easer then I thought it would be. I hope that this was helpful, Jim Vourakis
light on inside, fridge and freezer warm up after initially cooling
Fridge/freezer warm. After unpluging and plug in again, both would get cold. Then, ice would partially melt in the freezer only to refreeze later. Noted large temperature swings in freezer-up to 48 degrees during defrost cycle. Finally after a day or two, both sides warming up permanently to room temp. Tapping inside the fridge near the cold control (thermostat) would cause the warm fridge/freezer to cool again. Installation is simple. Remove knobs and snap on face plate in front top of fridge. Remove screws allowing plastic cover to drop down which houses the thermostat at the inside top of fridge. loosen two mounting hex head screws from thermostat mount. Remove two plastic covers concealing thermostat wire that travels to vent at back of fridge. Remove thermostat. remove plastic tube over wire on old thermostat by slipping it forward and slide tube on to new thermostat wire. Install is the same in reverse. A thermometer in the freezer confirms very little temperature variation after install (3-4degrees); ice no longer melts, unit stays on!
pryed out old stub of stud with the tip of a flat head screw driver. It really did not want to come out because of the metal wings on the side of the stud. When I finally got it out the hole was a little rough but the new stud fit in the old hole and was not to wobbley. The shelf is heavy enough to make it stable. The new stud is also long enough to support the shelf even though the hole was not really in new condition after the old stud was pried out.
Replacing the parts was easy. I am 62 years old and have been repairing all my own appliances for yerars. I have found more problems in recieving the corect parts in a timley mater more difficult than fixing the problem. I am impressed with the promedness of your delivery, and in rtecieving the corect parts. Thank you much!!!!!!!!!!! Bill
removed two screws and pulled part out of the unit. The local appliance store said they needed model and part # to try to identify and order the part. Found part select online, found the part immediately, ordered the part for $4.50 or so. Part was delivered in 2 days! Very easy installation and the part works perfectly. Thanks so much!
