3CEP2910DW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

I took rear panel off with a nutdriver 8 screws.disconnected the 2 wires that went to thermal fuse and removed 1 screw holding it in place.replaced thermal fuse and reconnected wires and rear panel.turned dryer on. had heat. walk in the park!

Thousand dollars for a new dryer or twenty bucks for a new belt. Thank-you parts select. Ordering was easy and the instructions were bang on!

Step 1: remove new latch from bag in which part comes. Step 2: push latch into hole where the other latch was. Step 3: enjoy having a dryer you dont have to hold closed with a folding chair.

Motor was tight, very hard to turn by hand. take the back motor mount strap off and you will be able to put an adjustable wrench on the shaft of the blower. you should be able to put vice grips on the pulley end and turn motor counter clock wise (CCW) to let handle of vice grips rest against the bottom of the machine and turn adjustable wrench CCW to turn off blower wheel. However, the one I did, the wheel was so tight I ended up having to break the blower wheel down small enough so I could pull the motor out. remove the front motor mount strap and pull the motor out. Install the new motor wheel and motor in the revers order. Set motor in place, install front motor mount strap, put blower wheel in from the back of the machine and start treading on the motor shaft. Then,from the front, tighten the blower with wrenches turning clock wise and put machine back together. Always unplug machine whenever working on it. If you go to Whirlpool web site there is a step by step video that will walk you through this entire process.

follow video and fix.

Could not be any easier. For less than $20 and 15 minutes time, I couldnt be happier.
All that was needed is a nutdriver to remove a 1/2 dozen screws to take the back panel off. Then a phillips screw driver to remove the thermal fuse. Unplug 2 wires and then attach them to the new fuse. Put it all back together and done!. Working dryer.
PS: I had enough gas line and ducting connected to the dryer ,so thatt I was able to get behind it with out removing them. This may have taken another 15 min. if I needed to do this and two adjustable wrenches.

I lifted the top of the dryer. I unhooked the hangers from the door and took it off. I pulled the drum out, took the broken belt off, slid the new one around the outside middle of the drum, turning the rib side of the belt out,and ran the belt through the pulley attached to the bottom base of the dryer (tension pulley, right hand side), slid the drum back inside the dryer frame, reattached the door, closed and snapped the dryer lid and it worked great!!

Installed new filter and it is working great!!!

Your customer service was great, but your video wasn't particularly helpful because of the extreme age of my dryer. For one thing, with these really old dryers, you don't have to slide the drum out at all; you just unscrew the front panel and slip the belt in that way. The printed diagram that came with the belt helped me figure how the belt slips through the pulley assembly, but the drawing could have been more clear. In spite of my bickering, I probably saved $50 fixing it myself.

Disconnect electric power, the top & cabinet are connected by 2 reusable locks about 4 inches from each front corner, use a thin flat putty knife or similar object, push inward on a lock while lifting gently on the front of the top piece, then let the top rest against the wall. ( a wire on each end of a safety switch for the dryer door may need disconnected) Remove a screw from each front corner of the cabinet, then pull upward on the loose front panel to access the drive motor, remove old belt. install new belt by lifting the front of the drum just high enough to allow the new belt, place groves of belt against the drum and around the motor pulley and belt tensioner, re-install cabinet front, (re-connect safety switch wires) return top and push down at cabinet locks.

I checked the thermal fuse for continuity and had none.ordered part arrived next day. I took a picture with phone to idenify wires. installed in a short time.dryer works like new

It was really easy I watched your video on how to do it the video went step by step and was very helpful

First I watched a instruction video online.. It made the job easy. I have done it before but I did not remember exactly how to proceed, After watching the video i knew exactly what screws needed to be removed and what tool I needed for each step. Anybody sees the video before tackling this job, they can't go wrong.

followed video on line

To make sure the dryer didn't die catastrophically, I checked to make sure the timer, the light, and the push to start start switch and the door switch were still working. After they were diagnosed to be working properly, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it back from the wall so I would have enough room to work behind it. The first item you will need is the wiring diagram. If you do not have one, one can be obtained online by using your dryer brand and model number. The next thing you will need is a quality digital multimeter that measures resistance or continuity. The last thing you will need is a 1/4" nutdriver. The first thing you will need to do is remove the exhaust tube from the back of the dryer. The second step is to remove a small black plate located near a green ground screw. The 3rd step is to remove the large black cover on the back of the dryer. Once this is removed, you will need to locate the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is a small component that has 2 blue wires connected to it. It is located on the housing where the steam from your clothes leads to the exhaust port. The first thing you need to do is disconnect the 2 blue wires. Once the wires are disconnected, set the multimeter to resistance. The unit of resistance is ohms and the greek letter omega is used. The red lead of your multimeter goes one metal tabe of the fuse and the black lead goes on the other one. If the multimeter measures 0. L ohms, then the fuse is bad and needs to be replaced. If the multimeter reads 00.00 ohms then the fuse is good and you have another problem. I hope these instructions were useful.