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Noisey Compressor Cooling Fan
Wow, end result was amazing. I had to place my ear close to the refrigerator to find out if the fan was working. So quiet. Prior to this we could hear it in the bedroom. I replaced the fan motor, blade, grommets, i.e. the whole fan train. There were two screws holding the fan which were removed. (After removing the back panel.) Then removed the old blade and dust cap. Detached the wiring harness at the junction. Then reassemble in the reverse order. I screwed up the 1st time...installed the front motor grommet in reverse. Fan blade was not centered. Resulted in a few mins rework. Actually spent more time cleaning all the dust from the compartment and behind the refer than it took to install the new fan system. Did I say that I couldn't be more pleased with the no noise result?
Instructions say run capacitor is by motor, but on this frige its in the refrigerator compartment. The capacitors looks different, one square and the other long
I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.
The lights were on inside however the the water/ice dispenser did not work and the fridge and freezer side was not cooling
Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.
After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.
The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.
Fridge keeps cycling on and off and a clicking sound happens every time compressor cycles.
I opened the back panel of the fridge and exposed the compressor. Unplugged existing run capacitor and installed new one with the addition of the sleeve that is stated must be installed around the run capacitor. Everything I read and on this web site says that based on these symptoms, that the problem is the run capacitor. I searched and search for a part called a start relay which plugs in to the compressor. This run capacitor plugs in to this other part which I take as the start relay.
Installing this run capacitor did not solve the problem. The fridge compressor keeps cycling on and off. Freezer doesn't keep as cold as it should.
I first unscrewed the broken right rail from the back piece and replaced with the new rail. Did the same for the left piece side. Attaching to the front rail was challenging because I took a while to figure out how to remove the cover (where the pictures of the vegetables/fruits are). But if you just get a narrow flat-head screwdriver under there, it just pries off. Then you can get to the little screw that attaches the side rails to the front piece.
The refigerator not getting cold and the freezer coils where a solid block of ice while the refrigerator never turned off.
After finding your web site, the description of my problem was pretty clearly referenced as to what parts where the likely problem. When I received the parts it was only a matter of unplugging the refrigerator, removing the cover in the freezer and cutting and stripping the two color coded wires for the thermostat and wire nutting the wires and putting wire tape on them. Then put the coil cover back on. Then in the refrigerator section, remove the controls cover and then take the controls compartment loose and unfasten the old defrost control, and install the new one. Then put every thing back in place. Plug the refrigerator back up and set the temperature to medium.
Left Vegetable Drawer Slide Rail was broken thus making it impossible for the Crisper Drawers to function properly.
I removed the Glass Shelf on top of the Vegetable Drawer assembly, unfastened the front rail from the broken slide rail and removed the entire assembly. I cleaned the parts and then installed the new rail. I placed the drawers in the repaired assembly and placed in the refridgerator. It really went well. I didn't need the other parts order. I only had them just in case they were needed.
I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.
Icemaker waterline leaking inside by the grommet where the water line comes in the refrigerator . First removed the water line from grommet . Then removed grommet by hand from the fridge. Last, reversed prodedure.