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no heat in oven
removed element found a crack and replaced with new one I got from PartSelect.com. with fast fast shipping,thanks you saved me for spendin more money on a new one. it happened on christmas day of course......
First we removed the screws inside the oven. Next, the oven backing was removed by unscrewing one side and one bottom bolt which exposed the clips for the burner. The clips were removed from the old burner. The old burner was pulled through the fiberglass protection and out of the oven. The new burner was inserted into the oven and the prongs were pushed through the fiberglass protection. The screws inside the oven were reattached. The clips were attached on the outside of the oven. The backing was slid into the right holding piece and the bolts on the left and bottom were attached.
Replacing the Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit was very easy.
1. Pull the stove from the wall a little so you can have space to work. I unplug the stove from lthe 220 outlet. Then remove the Surface Burner element.
2. Then we removed the back pannel from the stove by removing the screws with a nut driver. Only four screws to remove.
3. Once the pannel was removed. I Unpluged the wires from the stove pannel. Being careful not to damage the plug in. There were only two wires to unplug. So trace the wires to make sure you are unpluging the correct one.
4. Lift the top up on the stove and unscrewed the Terminal Block from the top of stove. We only have one screw there.
5. Pull the Terminal Block and wires out and replace with the new Terminal Block, making sure the wires were feed along the side under the top of stove so they can not be damaged. Plug in wires and replace pannel.
The wire to the burners were old and needed replacement. When the new terminals arrived, my husband had gone hunting. When the parts arrived, I pulled the stove away from the wall and found the nut driver that I needed. I removed the screw on the terminal box under the burner and realized I had to remove the back panel of the stove. I unplugged the old wires and plugged in the new ones. I installed the new terminal boxes under the burners and plugged the burners back in. My stove works like new and I am thrilled that it was so easy. Thanks
I watched the video on this website and it couldn't have been easier. The only thing I did differently was I took the door off for an easier reach. To take the door off, you open just a little and pull up. It makes it so much easier to get at the screws, and maked the repair a snap.
Wall oven: light flickered or did not work in a loose poreclain socket.
Shut off power at the panel to the electric oven. Removed 2 phillips screws holding bulb unit in place in the top of teh oven chamber. One wire was so frayed it came out of the push on connector. Stripped off insulation and reinstalled onto the connector, using pliers to snug the wires down. Installed the new porcelain socket from Parts Select, replaced the unit in the top of the oven unit. Installed a new bulb, then snapped the new glass housing into place with the existing retaining wire clip. Presto: works like it's brand new. Thanks to Parts Select for the right parts, and for such quick delivery. I will use them again!
Moved stove out away from wall .Unplugged stove, turned gas off. Unit is a dual fuel convection. Burners are gas, oven is electric. Removed 4 screws from back shield and exposed the 2 electrical leads connected to broiler element. Disconnected the electrical .Inside oven I removed the front bracket holding element in place, then removed the 2 1/4 screws in the back holding element in place. placed new element in and finger tightened the 2 screws, next I installed the front bracket and finger tightened those. I then snugged the rear screws in followed by the front. I went to the back and reconnected the 2 electrical leads. Replaced back shield and plugged unit in and turned gas back on.Caution; Make sure your gas line is flexible before moving your stove out to far. Repair was very easy
Remove light bail, glass cover held by two nut screws. Pull socket, removed clips in back, replaced wire connectors, placed new socket in, then glass cover and bail. Wire connected in back, cover plate replaced.
I pulled range away from the wall and pulled the electrical plug. I removed all of the heating elements and raised and secured the top panel.I then removed the one screw that held the terminal block in place.now I went to the rear of the range and remove six screws that held the top cover in place.I now cut the two wires going to the old block,I pushed the new wires through the back panel.I installed the new terminal block using one screw. Now I went to the rear and removed the old wires and installed the new wires. I rolled up excess wire and secured with plastic ties. I installed the rear cover using six screws,I put electrical plug back into outlet,pushed range back in place,lowered front panel,replaced all the elements and turn on left rear element.FINISH EVERYTHING WORKS. P.S. I ordered two terminal blocks,if it happens again in any of the blockes I'll be ready. total costs for both $25.55 plus shipping.
The new drip pans are great. I had purchased generic ones locally that were supposed to be universal. The problem was that they did not fit right and the burner coils did not sit flat. The new drip pans fit well and look great too.
