36275329100 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I loosened the three gas line fittings on the valve, removed the two screws holding it to the frame, and removed the four wires (spade connectors). Then I reversed the process to install the new valve. It was that easy. This was my last resort after replacing the temperature probe and the control unit. It fixed the problem.

While i was inserting the new lp,gas orriface to the right rear burner tube I dropped the oriface.Without looking i popped the top of the burner unit, like most older type stoves, and thats when i ran into my problem. I realized the burner tube assemblies are attached by 3 screws to the top cover.Not attached to the cabinet as the older models, Basically cracked both front aluminum tubes trying to retrieve the dropped oriface. so i had to replace the burner tube units, which involved removing 3 screws, and loosing up and removal of the nut to the main gas tube. extremely easy repair, next time i`ll try to remember look before i leap,total time to (r+r)burner tubes about 20 minutes.Parts select pulled me out of the fire on this one, great staff and service, with quick delivery.

This repair was fairly simple, just took the door off, then the 2 screws in the back, lift the bottom out. then remove shield to valve unplug the old igniter. then put it all back in reverse order. it worked great.

Here's how I fixed my problem.
I took the aluminum cover, the part that sits over the jet & the igniter, which simply comes off. It's the part that the igniter discharges to. I took this cover off & using a pencil I scratched the lead of the pencil into the area
which is around the igniter. I made sure to cover the area with as much lead as I could get on it. You need to make sure that you do this to all four burners. The only care you need to take, is not to block the gas jet which is in the igniter recess. It's been about 3 weeks since I added this & the burners click loudly & have lit without a problem. It appears that the aluminum may develop a coating on it of some kind which is highly resistive.

I removed the unit from the wall,removed the back panel to access the wires to the sensor,cut the plug off of the new sensor and strip the wires back,used the wire nuts to attach the new sensor,put all back together and slid back into the wall and works excellent.

I was very pleased with how quickly the new oven rack arrived and it was a perfect fit. Thanks.

As has been said shut down unit,Breaker fuse.If you do not have install info.Get a copy on line. If you have another set of hands it would not hurt.! this has been stated before. Remove door, Remove 4 screws , to slide unit out,I used a saw horse with some cribing secured to the horse to get height, Pull the oven out so that the two front supports are on the saw horse,and the back two are up to the edge runner.I used about a 1 ft stool for working height. Remove the top elec. cover sheet metal 2 screws. You will see were the wireing runs down the back. Get a small mirror,and flash light. Look down the wire opening in the back, you see the sensor connection ,I made a hook out of a coat hanger to grab it with. Pull it up before you disconnect it ,tie a piece of string to the sensor side of the connector , use 2 Ft. then disconnect remove two screws from inside the oven. And remove,sensor tie string on to new sensor connector pull through and connect.on top.Then replace everything cck every thing Twice!Doing this i didn"t have to pull the unit all the way out! LATER GOOD LUCK!

Pull plug and shut off gas! The lower oven burner is held in with two rear and one front screws. I removed the top floor of the oven (two hand tightened screws at the back), the bottom drawer, and the front door (just lift it off the hinges). This allowed me to access the burner, and I removed it by unscrewing the three screws, unhitching the igniter connector, and lifting the burner and igniter up and out. I connected the new igniter on the new burner before installing it in the oven, and found that the connector did not match (I was warned about this possibility on the PartSelect site), but instead of splicing the wires together, I cut off the connector on the new igniter and replaced it with the connector of the old igniter. Then I screwed the burner into the oven, recoupled the connector, replaced the floor, drawer, and door, and I was done! It took about 45 minutes.

first i removed the screws that held the element and put the other one on. still would not heat . so i took the back of stove ,sides of stove loose to trace wires and under the top of stove i found a wire that comes from oven switch had been bitten into by a mouse wire nutted and electrical taped the wire back togeather and it workes fine . keep in mind there are 3 thinge that could be wrong. it goes from the switch, to the gas valve in broialer to the igniter switch,gas,fire .

I removed the whole burner (3 screws) and the igniter (2 screws). IGNITER comes from Mfg. boxed with wrong plug on igniter - however they supply two porclean nuts so that the wires can be cut and joined. I recommend that you use the plug off the old igniter and splice it to the new part, so that it will plug into the stove's existing plug

It was very easy I removed two screws unpluged the sensor and wire spliced it together and also replaced the modual on the top of the stove and it was that easy.

Take out inside of oven.Igniter is held on with 2screws and electrical clip.take off old one and put on new one.

Repair was quite easy. Remove four screws and lay back sheet metal panel. Transfer wires from one module to the other and then put new module in place. replaced the sheetmetal panel. Spark now presen at all burners. One small thing worth mentioning. Each burner has a gas distrubution cap and that cap has a small hole to the spark cavity. One of these was pluged with grease and that kept the burner from lighting until this hole was cleared.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance