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Spark was present in only two of four burners
Repair was quite easy. Remove four screws and lay back sheet metal panel. Transfer wires from one module to the other and then put new module in place. replaced the sheetmetal panel. Spark now presen at all burners. One small thing worth mentioning. Each burner has a gas distrubution cap and that cap has a small hole to the spark cavity. One of these was pluged with grease and that kept the burner from lighting until this hole was cleared.
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.
While I was waiting on another part to arrive, I decided it would be a good time to do a thorough cleaning. When I lifted the top of the range, I lifted it to far and cracked both front burner tubes. The top of the range should not be lifted more than 4 inches without removing the 3 screws that hold each burner in place. When the new lines came in, I removed both front burners, knobs, and then removed the front plate behind the knobs using a Phillips screwdriver. The screws are located on the bottom of the plate. Using my adjustable wrench I replaced the lines. Then I CAREFULLY bent the gas tubes and remounted the burners. Over all an easy install. Just be careful, the gas tubes are aluminum and will break very easy. This is the second time I used PartSelect, and I am very satisfied.
the flame spreader through the years, developed a hole above the glow coil causing the above trapped gas between the oven pan and spreader to ignite. by replacing the flame spreader the problem is gone and is now working properly. thank you, parts select for being there when i needed the part and also being reasonably priced. mike marino
I thought that when the burner didn't light it was the control valve at fault. After shutting off the gas, I changed the valve by removing the wires, undoing the tubing, then unscrewing the unit from the back of the unit. This worked one time. It turns out that if there isn't enough voltage from the burner, the valve won't open. I found this out after I mistakenly thought that the new valve was faulty. Check the voltage from the burner before you do anything else.
From back, top of stove, removed 4 screws from panel to gain access to control unit. Removed 4 screws holding control and let hang from wires. Removed face plate from old unit and installed on new part. Installed new control and one at a time removed wires from old part and connected to new control. Replaced cover panel. Oven works fine now.
burner tubes both had pin holes in them and the ignighter didnt work
This was a real easy job and a success,of course any repair i do on a gas appliance and when finished It doesnt blow up i consider a success. Thank you,David Williams
stove top burner ignition spark progressively got weaker and then stopped on all but one burner.
I located the igniter module by following the wires to the top/rear of the stove. Removed two sheet metal guards and marked and numbered each electrical wire before removing them. Reasembled in reverse order. Wife thinks I'm a genius!