36-6262-66-09 Tappan Range - Instructions

I removed the oven floor and subfloor. I detached the old ignighter leaving the wires still attached. I then attached the new ignighter and fed each of the two new wires down through the bottom of the oven floor following the same path of the old wires which were still attached. I attached the new wires one at a time to make sure I connected them to the right place. Then, I pulled out the old igniter. I then attached the oven floors and turned the oven on which now works. The tough part is pulling the oven out from the wall to disconnect the power and turn off the gas. I did not remove the oven door.

Removed the broiler compartment door by depressing the slide stops inward and pulling the door off. Turned off the breaker to the oven. Used a nut driver to remove the old ignitor ( 2 screws ). Cut the wires off the old ignitor close to the porclin. Measured the new ignitor wires to match up with the old ignitor wires and cut them. Stripped 3/8 " off ends of newely cut wires of the ignitor and used the supplied wire nuts to secure them together. Replaced the new ignitor with the 2 screws. Turned on the oven and a cooking I went.

replaced it

I cut the wires from the old igniter near where it said to. I then connected the new wires to the old ones, put it back on, the way I remembered it being assembled, but still won't heat up. I tried to get an enlarged detail of where I was working on, but I couldn't enlarge it from your website. My friend, who knows about electricity, worked on it for several hours last pm(He's an electrician), but could not figure it out with the scamatic that was on the range, because he was not there when I disassembled it,

Unplugged stove, removed floor of oven, removed two screws holding igniter, cut wires to igniter, installed new igniter, cut and stripped wires on new igniter and leads, connected new ingiter with supplied ceramic wire nuts, tested (worked perfectly!), then replaced oven floor.

It was a snap!

I first removed the 2 screws that held the oven floor in place. Once removed, I remove the cover plate that covered the ignitor.

In order to get to the ignitor wires, I had to remove the drawer. Once the drawer was removed, I marked which wire went to which spot on the ignitor, then cut the wires. I then removed the old ignitor by removing 2 screws. I then attached the new ignitor with the 2 screws and attached the wires using the enclose wire nuts.

The complete process was very easy, taking less than half an hour. The part with shipping was just over $50. If I paid someone to fix my problem it would have cost at least $200. I'm sure galad I found this web site.

took out the old (2 screws) put clip on wires and put the new part in. Simple

wonderful went perfect!!!

Unplugged the oven
Removed racks and bottom plate
Removed two 1/4" fasteners on ignitor
Installed new ignitor with two 1/4" fasteners
Cut each wire on old ignitor one at a time and hook up using included wire nuts
Plug in oven
Test oven
If it works, put it back together

followed the instructions that come with the part. very quick and easy.

could not determine what part failed.Found Part Select on line useing Bing search.Using virtual repairman and typing in the problem it told me what I needed.Orderd that part on line and reieved it in TWO DAYS,can you believe that! Inatalled that igniter in 15 mins. and now it works like new. Thank You Part Select!!!!!!

Replacing the faulty ignitor would have been simple enough if my arms were a foot longer and the bolts that secured the old ignitor had not been baked on.

With an ample dose of WD40 and some Vise Grips I finally got them broke loose. An Ohm meter can tell you pretty quickly if the old ignitor is bad. My old ignitor measured more than 1 mega ohm while the new ignitor read only about 346 ohms.

followed posted repair procedure on Parts select site. . . straight forward and simple. . .

I removed the oven bottom which was held by two large head long screws. I then removed the heat deflector using a small socket. The only difficult part was when I went to replace the igniter. The screws that were holding it in place stripped I guess do to the amount of heat they were continually subject too. I had to apply pressure to the igniter bracket while removing the screw using a small socket. Even with that they did not come out easily. If I had not had trouble removing the screws the repair probably would have taken 15 min.

The philip head screws holding the igniters were frozen. Had to cut off heads with dremel cut off tool, then grabed residual screw with vice gripp pliers. Removed screws and mounted new ignighters. Used new hex head bolts. Attached wires per instruction sheet and tested unit. It worked.