3468VVV Magic Chef Range - Instructions

removed cover over burner section ,removed power to burner section ,removed burner assembly, replaced ignitor assembly, wire in to control circuit ,replace burner section in oven,turnon power chech operation ,replace cover.

I think the installation instructions are fairly self explanatory. This is the second item I've ordered from Parts Select and I'm thrilled with their service. The items are always less expensive than other sites and they deliver what they promise. I would highly recommend them.

Removed door, took off old igniter. Had to redo plug , simple, because kit had wires to splice to make it work. Whole job was 30 min. Recomend to anyone. Saved $75 on a service call. Bill

removed inside trays and grill inside large oven door on front to get to ignitor,removed ignitor with 1/4 drive socket,followed the wires off the ignitor thru the hole in back of oven and disconnected the connector,put on in reverse order.To simple to even write about,anyone can look at it and tell what needs to be done

Remove old igniter ,,again had to remove rear panel of unit to get to connecter..reverse procedure to install igniter. Video very helpful.

DISCONNECT AC ELECTRICAL POWER TO RANGE AND TURN OFF GAS SUPPLY TO RANGE 1. Removed door (slide up and off hinges), no tools required. 2. Removed grate/s and burner cover to expose burner and igniter. 3. Used hex socket tool to remove two igniter bracket screws. 4. Carefully pull two woven glass insulated leads connected to igniter until connector is in reach. 5. Use care not to put unnecessary strain on leads and connector body. 5. Squeeze locking tongs of connector, and unplug igniter leads. 6. While holding female end of connector, insert new igniter electrical plug, making certain they latch together. 7. Carefully push excess leads / connector body into recessed area and wrap insulation supplied with igniter kit around glass woven leads of igniter, to re-insulate the cavity opening. 8. Position igniter on burner tube bracket and replace hex screw fasteners. 9. Plug in electrical power to range, turn on gas supply. Check oven for proper operation. If oven does not light, shut off gas supply, unplug electrical power and contact qualified service technician.

really easy thank you to your video

Removed stove from slot in wall. Bent rear left leg would not unscrew due to bent metal bracket. Used hacksaw to cut out leg, then straightened metal bracket with small hammer and was able to screw new leg in and adjust height by using level on stove before reinserting stove its slot. Recheck level after pushing back in place and adjust front legs if necessary. If not for bent metal receiving bracket, would have taken much less time. Still easy tho. R'cvd part in two days. Very quick.

I have and in the wall Magic Chef oven CGW3330ADW seriel 10799876US that came the purchase of my home 10yrs. ago. After a black out and 2 brown outs my oven would not start and the F3 code is beeping and the "door lock" light was on but the door was unlocked. The clock was working fine, but could not use the timer or set the temperature. I googled "FLASHING F3 code" and one of the results was the comment thread on the Parts Select website. When I clicked the link I read several customers sharing their story that was very similar to mine. I was able to click on a video and see a short demonstration on "HOW EASY" it was to replace the "Short Oven Sensor Kit." I though, "Yea right!" I left a comment on that You Tube video with my make and model and a brief explanation of my problem. I received a reply to my comment with in 24 hours, confirming what other consumers had shared...The "Short Oven Sensor Kit" was needing to be replaced. I ordered the part for around $30 VERY late on Thursday evening and when I woke on Friday morning, I a shipping confirmation email. I received it VERY early on Saturday morning! I was able to replace the part very easily with in about 10 minutes. I was VERY LUCKY that I was able to to the repair WITHOUT having to remove the oven for the wall! I would have had to pay for help if I had to remove it from the wall. The Parts Select web site save me over $400 which was the estimate for the parts and labor from a local appliance repair business! I was told that it would probably be cheaper or about the same as buying a new over which was their recommendation. I am so glad that I decided to do the research and in less that 1 hour I had my order placed. Thank You Parts Select!

removed the top plates, the burner heads and their ignition wires. removed the four screws from the range top that hold the gas orifices to the top.Lifted the top off of the stove. used a 1/2 inch open end wrench to remove orifice tube assemblies. put the new tube assemblies in place, wrenched them down, secure but not overly secure. replaced other materials in the same way the they were removed. it took about thirty minutes. had some difficulty replacing the stove top.the stove is an older model and some of the pieces moved when the top was removed.

Repair was super easy, Remove Screws. (the hardest part was trying to remove the edging of the door without cracking it, or breaking the tabs used to secure it) Once I got the edges off, I slid the front of the door off, removed the screws and braces holding the outer glass. Picked out the broken pieces, cleaned all the glass and inside the door and put it all back together. If I didn't clean everything, it would've taken half the time.

I replaced the Dual Oven Safety Valve and that didn't fix it. Turns out that even if the igniter glows it still can be the problem. Since the igniter is in the circuit of the Dual Oven Safety Valve, each igniter is responsible for their half of the Dual Oven Safety Valve. Apparently as the igniter ages the ohms of the igniter go up reducing the voltage below the 3.3V to 3.6V necessary to open the valve (bi-metal strip wrapped with cal rod wire inside of Dual Oven Safety Valve). Once the ohms go up and the voltage goes down no gas is released from that half of the Dual Oven Safety Valve. So it will appear that the Dual Oven Safety Valve is bad but that is not the case. It will be the Igniter corresponding to the burner that is not lighting.

Make sure power to the oven is disconnected. Remove all shelves. Partially open the bottom door and yank it out so it is out of your way. The igniter is next to the back and upper wall of the oven inside the lower (broiler) compartment. The igniter is held by two screws which I opened using a 5/16 or 8mm nut driver. After removing the two screws, remove the back plate using a regular phillips screwdriver. Next, pull out the two igniter wires until the connector comes out. Pressing the side tabs disconnect the igniter from the connector. Connect the new igniter. If nesessary, replenish some of the insulation with new insulation that arrived with the new igniter. Push excessive igniter wiring back, remount the backplate using the phillips screwdriver. Remount the new igniter using the nutdriver. Remount the bottom door. Put all shelves back. You are done.

I removed the sensor from the oven using a philip screw driver. The sensor was removed by removing the two screws holding it in place in the upper left hand corner of the oven. I had to disconnect the sensor on the back of stove. Then I pulled the old sensor through the hole inside the oven. Then I installed the new sensor by putting the wire of the sensor through the hole where the old sensor was removed. Then I hooked up the wire in the back of the stove. Then took the screw driver and replaced the two screws holding the sensor in place. It was very easy to do and the oven is doing fine now.

Cut off the electricity at the junction box. Removed two screws from the sensor at the back of the oven. Then pulled the sensor with the wire out of the installation hole in the back of the oven. Disconnected the quick connect plug from the sensor and reconnected the new part. Reversed the process and screwed the two screens back into the oven wall. Turned the electricity back on and started up the oven. (Everything ran well for about three days when the oven again signaled "F-5" indicating the oven was again not functioning properly. Restarted the oven and is currently running properly. My spouse does a lot of baking with this oven for cookies, roasts, etc. Next time it fails I will be forced to call a repairman as I believe there is something wrong other then the heat sensor.