I had made a dry run at the repair after watching the instructional film provided by part select and it seemed easy enough. The only problem was that i needed to use the electrical cord extender (provided) to adapt to my plug type. That presented a problm because it needed to be tucked up out of the way to allow the ice bin to clear. Just needed to be creative in how you wrapped the cord behind the ice maker unit before snugging the attachment screws. Cranking out ice like crazy.
Unplugged the old ice maker, removed the two screws holding it in place and removed from freezer. Found the correct adapter cord that fit the plugin in my freezer. Started the two screws will hold the icemaker and then hang the icemaker and plug it in and finish tightning the screws.
To install the supply valve for the ice maker, I moved the frig away from the wall, loosened the two screws holding the water valve and supply line, unplugged the valve, cut off the water supply,
We replaced two old icemakers with two new for less than a local repair company wanted to charge us for ONE. Very easy to install, hardest part was cleaning under both refrigerators! Thanks!
My husband took out the old icemaker in about 5 minutes. The new icemaker was a perfect fit even though the refrigerator was >10yrs old. The only difficult part was the plug extension that was needed so that it would fit into an older appliance. The part was included, it just made the cord about 3 inches longer than it needed to. After working with it for about 20 minutes we were able to fit it on the back side of the icemaker. Now it works great!!
Un Plugged the frig. Unlocked the socket by pressing down on the latch. Pulled the socket out ensuring I had enough slack. Unplugged the old socket installed the new. Plugged the frig back in. Tested the switch . Very easy-to-use.
The control board generated clicking noise. Temperature display wrong values.
On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay. The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord, I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor. Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.
I didn’t do the repair because I ordered two grommets. When they arrived, one of the packages was empty! Instead of just sending me another one, they refunded the part so I still need one. By the way, I was not refunded half the shipping either which was more than the part itself.
Simple. Rolled the refrigerator out , unplugged the 120 volts AC outlet.(1) Unplugged the wiring from the cabinet to the fan (white (three pin connector)). (2) Removed the two 5/16 inch screws holding the rear motor bracket . (3) Removed the fan blade from the motor shaft by applying slight pressure, pulling if off the old motor shaft. (4) removed the rubber isolator from the frame and from the rear of the old motor. (5) placed the rubber isolators back on the motor and frame. (6) Pushed the new motor back into the frame and re-installed the fan assembly. (7) remounted the fan with the rear support and the two 5/16 inch screws. Reconnected the three wire connector. Just checked the fan blade assembly to make sure they were not hitting the fan shroud. Fan blades should sit just partially inside the shroud to make sure it produces maximum airflow. (8) Reconnected the 120 volt AC and waited for the compressor to cycle back on... Nice quite fan... Thanks
Separately (from a different site) purchased new compressor fan and motor. I purchased the grommets here because the other site listed the grommets as temporarily out of stock. I did watch one of the videos on PartSelect about the grommet replacement. Repair was pretty simple, biggest challenge was getting to the screw on the far side of the motor. Removed the two screws holding the fan motor into place. Removed motor and blade. Reinstalled with new fan blade, new grommet and new motor.
Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.
Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.
A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.
Unplugged the refrigerator then used the cordless drill to remove the 6 screws on the access panel on the back of the fridge to be able to get to the fan. Was able to pull the fan off by hand and push the new fan on by hand. Plugged the refrigerator by in and watched the fan run for a few minutes then replaced the access panel. Really quick and easy repair.
1- youtubed the potential diagnoses, 2- resourced and ordered parts, 3- removed old socket, installed new one :-)... My fridge is an older fridge and could've used a screwdriver for eyeglasses. Plug and play easy... YAY!
Ordered part came in 3 days. Removed plug and rear cover. Pulled off old fan . Installed new fan by pushing it on to shaft. Plugged unit back in to check operation, installed rear cover. Done. Part fit perfect. Thanks to this site you folks are great !
