31FG-3KX Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Removed the two screws that support the hot surface igniter. Removed the rear cover to disconnect the igniters wire harness and removed old igniter. Installed replacement igniter by fastening with the old screws and sending the plug harness through the ovens rear opening. Connected igniter into the harness and installed the rear cover.

I unpluged the oven, removed the oven door by slideing it off the hinges, removed the racks, took the bottom pan out exposing the igniter,while attempting to remove the 2 screws holding the igniter to the bracket, I discovered that they where stripped so I had to use vise grips to remove them. I went to the hardware store bought replacements and installed the igniter. I then removed the protective cover over the wires, stripped them put on the wire nuts provided with the kit put the protective shield back pluged the unit in turned it on, checked it, then put it back together. The stripped screws were the only difficult part.

I removed the two screws that hold the element. This took most of the time because one of the screw broke. Then I unplug the power,took the igniter out and disconnect the wire and reverse the procedure.

I unpluged the electrical cord first. Then pulled the stove away from wall. Next removed oven racks, the bottom of the oven. Then removed the deflector plate over the burner. The next step I removed the broil pan. Now the oven area is empty. Nice and easy to remove the igniter with nut driver. Two screws and wire nut that are behind the stove wall. Now I just reversed the procedure. Very easy. The only thing I'm not sure where the insulation block go's. The wires go through back oven wall hole. There was no insulation there before? So I put a small piece just behind the igniter over the wire. Will this catch fire I don't know? If someone knows let me know. Other than that it works.

Repair not going well. Can't get the old part out. Have used needle nose plier and still can't get ahold of whats left of the part to pull out. Not for sure what to do next.

installed new control unit had to use the old dial so it would match . Toughest part is the cleaning! needed it.

took oven door off easy just lift up took bottom tray to oven out took bottom draw of stove out removed tin panel cover 2 screws to unplug igniter took 2 screws out of igniter and pulled unpluged wire through insulation. installed new igniter 2 new screws put wire through insulation and pluged it in. The only thing to check is matching the plug ends correctly before pushing them together.

Basic instructions provided were accurate. Most difficult part was bending down and reaching across the oven door. A general information note would have been helpful. The circuit that feeds the igniter and the gas valve is a series circuit. So, even though the igniter was glowing cherry red, the igniter was still the cause of the gas not flowing, The voltage drop across the igniter was larger then normal causing the voltage to the gas valve to go down and to be insufficient to allow the gas to flow.

After watching your do-it yerself video, I turned off the gas and unpluged ac power cord, I removed the stove door and then removed the bottom tray inside the stove unscrewed tray plate pulled buner out of its housing. I then unscrewed the two screws to the old ignitor and unpluged it. Pluged in the new one screwed it to the burner bracket, put everything back togher then tuned on the stove. IT WORKS!!

Removed the oven burner changed the igniter reinstalled the burner still didn't operate,gave up purchased a new range. I liked dealing with your sales department very friendly.

This is one of the easiest home repairs I have ever done. I shut off the gas and unplugged the oven. I removed the door and shelves. I then removed the two screws that secured the igniter and pulled the connector through the hole in the back of the the oven. No need to splice any wires as the replacement igniter came with the correct connector. It was then just a matter of reversing the process. Very simple and quick fix.

Replaced the oven igniter and oven works perfectly 30 seconds to light

I watched the video of the repair that was on the page, and said, "Oh, it can't be that easy." It was. I just followed the steps he did, and the had the old igniter out and the new one in in no time. I did have to go back in and add the new insulation, as I thought the old would be sufficient for the new igniter, but, other than that, I had it in and out in just a few minutes. The video was really, really helpful! If you don't know what you are doing, just watch it!

The oven in my Jenn-Air range started to leak gas whenever I turned it on and a visit from the local gas company indicated the ignitor had probably gone bad. I had assumed the older range wasn't worth repairing but didn't want to spend $800+ for something in otherwise excellent condition. Internet research yielded lots of tutorials on how to make the swap and I decided to see if I could get the old part out before going any further. It wasn't too tricky except one of the two screws holding the ignitor in place had stripped and it was in a location that was very difficult to reach. I used a part of tin snips to cut around it. The new part ordered here came very quickly and exactly matched what I had removed; the wiring harness fit perfectly. It was a snap to put back in and now the oven works perfectly. All for under $50.

My oven would not come on so my wife could bake a cake. The glow coil that ignites the gas for the oven had burned out. The replacement went very easily and fast. This web site was very helpful with all the information I needed to get it up and running again. I enjoyed the cake she made after I got it fixed.