31FA-3KW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

I simply followed the "general" instructions from the online video "Partselect" provides and perused the instructions included in the kit. The OEM igniter was much longer than the replacement but the new part was spec'd just fine. It was necessary for me to open up the back of the stove in order to retrofit the igniter leads to the original block connector and install the heat resistant padding included in the kit. The additional necessary hardware fit very nicely inside the oven. The stove's oven fired up without any problems and spared me the expense of purchasing a new oven. Thank you very much "Partselect".

I removed and replaced the igniter. I described these symptoms on the web site and it detailed that90% of the time by installing a new igniter it will fix the described problem. So I ordered the part and installed the part and everything worked OK. The only tool I had to use was a screw driver to remove three screws. It took about half an hour. If I had to do it again it would take about 15 minutes.

Unplugged oven. Removed door,racks,and bottom shelf. Removed screws from ignitor and unplugged it from connection. Installed new ignitor with screws and plugged in to connection. Tucked wires behind insulation as they were before. Installed previously mentioned items and turned on to check. Worked great and am very pleased with PartSelect and the assistance they offer.

We just installed the new rack in the oven. The amazing thing (after many unsuccessful attempts to find the correct rack) was having a friend recommend partselect.com. The gentleman I spoke to was extremely knowledgeable, helpful and efficient. We had our new rack 2 days after placing the order. We thought that kind of service didn't exist any more! Thank you so much. Now we can make 2 pizzas at the same time!!!

Slid oven out from counters. On each side there are 3 screws on the front and three screws on the back holding the side piece on. Once off, the spring was very easy to get at and replace. I had only one broken, but replaced both anyways. I think it took longer to clean the sides of the oven that haven't been touched in years than to replace the springs. This job was very simple and easy.

Ordered oven Igniter kit PS1573892 which cost $73.00. Received the kit with instructions easy to follow to install. I was surprised how easy it was to repair, with the help of my wife we did the job in about 2 hours, the oven now works great. I really saved a bundle of money doing this myself, a local repair service wanted $114.00 for the same part and $200.00 labor to install and this is the gospel truth. I am 96 years old. RMA Bluefield, WV

Take off oven door, remove racks, lift out bottom plate of oven, remove deflector shield, unbolt old igniter gently fish out the wire and plug from the back of the oven. Unplug and replace with the new igniter. re-assemble oven.

Followed the directions on the video. Very easy to do.

Once I noticed the oven failed to light, I checked the igniter and saw it was glowing. At that point I did some research and found that the igniter could still be bad even though it glowed. This was the most common cause of ovens not lighting. A bad igniter will not glow as bright as a new one. An igniter had to draw a minimum of 2.8 amps in order for the safety valve to open and supply gas to the burner. After checking the safety valve with an ohmmeter, I found it to be good, so I ordered a new igniter. Once I received the new part , it took about 20 minutes to install.

Range is a 1967 model Maytag. First I removed drawer under oven, unplugged the range and pulled it out from the wall. Removed oven door by positioning it in the partly-open detent position, then pulled up to remove the door. Next I removed 7 screws per side panel: 3 in front and 3 in back, and one on top under cooktop, which retains the cooktop hold-down clip. With side panels removed, I noted the oven door spring position on the intact left side, then replaced the right-side spring first using the same spring adjustment positions. As I replaced the spring, I applied lithium grease to the spring hook pivot points as well as the spring coils where they rub against the interior wall. I repeated the process on the left side. I reassembled the side panels, oiled the door hinges and reinstalled the oven door. Reinstalled range and bottom drawer. The oven door operates like new, and the new springs are totally quiet — good for another 47 years!

Replaced stripped screws with 632 by 3/8 bolts and nuts. Your video helped with the rest of the installation.

Unplug power cord to oven.Remove lower panel from inside of oven to access flame rail cover.Remove wingnut from cover to access flamerail and igniter.Using phillips head screwdriver,remove 2 screws from lower access plate located at rear of oven to access igniter wiring.Disconnect both wires, then using a nutdriver,unscrew and remove igniter from flamerail.To install, simply reverse instructions.It was extremely simple and fun to do.But most rewarding of all was the sense of accomplishment from doing the repair myself not to mention of course the money i saved not having to call a technician. Thanks guys!

Because of the video provided by Parts Select I felt confident before even starting and that confidence stayed with me to the end..I removed bottom of oven , removed the philips screw in the front end of the burner and removed it.. Losened and removed the igniter replaced it and reassembled..The only caution I can give, if you find the screws holding the ignited on the burner hard to take off, apply a SMALL amount of WD40 to the threads and wait a couple minutes before removing..I was fortunat in the fact that my plug matched the replacement part with no cutting of wires..I normally don't get breaks like that.. Thanks Parts Select.

First turn gas off at pipe. Remove oven door, racks and bottom cover. Go to back of oven and unplug oven igniter. Back in front, unscrew 2 nut screws from igniter. To make things easier I tied a piece of string to the plug of the igniter, once I unscrewed the igniter I pulled it out with the string attached. When replacing I tied the string to the plug of the new igniter and pulled it from the back so the plug was able to come through, plug in the new igniter, screw it in place, replace the racks, covers, door and you're ready to enjoy some baking

Based off the information I found online, I determined we had a bad igniter. 1- disconnect oven from any power sources. If you have a gas model, be sure to valve off gas at this time as well. 2- Remove the racks and bottom pan in the oven. There is 2 push/pull locking mechanisms at the back of the oven that hold the tray in. Once you have this out you should have access to the gas tube and igniter. 3- Using a 5/16 nut driver, remove the 2 bolts on the mounting plate and the igniter should be free at this time. 4- Remove the bottom drawer to the oven. This will give you access to the electrical connections. 5- Remove the 2-3 screws that hold on the access panel toward the back of the unit. 6- Following the wires down, find the plug for the igniter and unplug. After this is done pull the wiring up through the oven and it will be the same to put back together just in reverse order. Relatively simple project that should take anywhere from 10-30 minutes depending on how handy you are. After reinstallation our preheat times went from 45 minutes to 10