31211WAV Magic Chef Range - Instructions

I was afraid I would have to remove the built in oven from the wall to do the repair but it was simple. I pulled on the wire a bit and the connector popped out of the hole in the back. After that it was as simple as removing 2 screws, replacing the unit, plugging it in and pushing the new connection out the hole in the back. They included a piece of insulation with the kit that I then forced into the hole to protect the new plug from the heat of the oven.

Much easier than I thought it was going to be. In about 10 minutes I had the oven working again.

I removed the two screws holding the ignighter on, pulled it a few inches, disconnected the plug, plugged the new ignighter in, tightened the two screws, turned on the power, and it worked. 1,2,3.

Remove the the drawer of the gas range on the bottom, on the right side there is a alluminum cover with a bunch wires, held on with two screws,inside is the igniter kit module, make sure you unplug the range from the wall . unplug the wires from the unit and plug the new unit up and you are finish.Good luck.

First, I removed the racks, door, bottom drawer, and lifted the bottom pan up and out from the rear. Then, I unscrewed the bottom cover for the electrical stuff (under where the drawer is) as this is where the connector for the igniter is. I did a voltage test on the oven side of the connector, finding voltage there I removed the igniter by removing the 2 screws holding it to the burner. (pack lunch for that part, they will be rusted, I used a mini grinder to cut off the heads). Then I pulled the connector through the hole, and installed new igniter using self drilling screws. After i repacked the insulation, I put it back together, and it lit right up. The failed one had a bad ballast, confirmed by a continuity test.

Pulled out the plug, pulled out the stove, removed the oven door, pulled out the lower shelf and racks. Used a nutdriver to remove the 2 screws from the bracket, disconnected the old ignitor, new ignitor was an exact replacement, put back in the screws, pushed back the stove and plugged it back in....Was back in business in a matter of seconds!!

I unpluged the electrical cord first. Then pulled the stove away from wall. Next removed oven racks, the bottom of the oven. Then removed the deflector plate over the burner. The next step I removed the broil pan. Now the oven area is empty. Nice and easy to remove the igniter with nut driver. Two screws and wire nut that are behind the stove wall. Now I just reversed the procedure. Very easy. The only thing I'm not sure where the insulation block go's. The wires go through back oven wall hole. There was no insulation there before? So I put a small piece just behind the igniter over the wire. Will this catch fire I don't know? If someone knows let me know. Other than that it works.

I removed the two screws that hold the element. This took most of the time because one of the screw broke. Then I unplug the power,took the igniter out and disconnect the wire and reverse the procedure.

I unpluged the oven, removed the oven door by slideing it off the hinges, removed the racks, took the bottom pan out exposing the igniter,while attempting to remove the 2 screws holding the igniter to the bracket, I discovered that they where stripped so I had to use vise grips to remove them. I went to the hardware store bought replacements and installed the igniter. I then removed the protective cover over the wires, stripped them put on the wire nuts provided with the kit put the protective shield back pluged the unit in turned it on, checked it, then put it back together. The stripped screws were the only difficult part.

This is a no brainer. I am only doing this because you asked. Pull out the stove, tilt it back, remove broken leg, install new leg.

took oven door off easy just lift up took bottom tray to oven out took bottom draw of stove out removed tin panel cover 2 screws to unplug igniter took 2 screws out of igniter and pulled unpluged wire through insulation. installed new igniter 2 new screws put wire through insulation and pluged it in. The only thing to check is matching the plug ends correctly before pushing them together.

I tried to get black drip pans to replace the ones I had which were well in need of changing. They no longer make the black so I found the silver ones on your site and thought for the price I would try them. They are wonderful and very reasonably priced. I ended up buying a spare set for later. Thank you for such great products and prices.

Basic instructions provided were accurate. Most difficult part was bending down and reaching across the oven door. A general information note would have been helpful. The circuit that feeds the igniter and the gas valve is a series circuit. So, even though the igniter was glowing cherry red, the igniter was still the cause of the gas not flowing, The voltage drop across the igniter was larger then normal causing the voltage to the gas valve to go down and to be insufficient to allow the gas to flow.

After watching your do-it yerself video, I turned off the gas and unpluged ac power cord, I removed the stove door and then removed the bottom tray inside the stove unscrewed tray plate pulled buner out of its housing. I then unscrewed the two screws to the old ignitor and unpluged it. Pluged in the new one screwed it to the burner bracket, put everything back togher then tuned on the stove. IT WORKS!!

Removed the oven burner changed the igniter reinstalled the burner still didn't operate,gave up purchased a new range. I liked dealing with your sales department very friendly.

This is one of the easiest home repairs I have ever done. I shut off the gas and unplugged the oven. I removed the door and shelves. I then removed the two screws that secured the igniter and pulled the connector through the hole in the back of the the oven. No need to splice any wires as the replacement igniter came with the correct connector. It was then just a matter of reversing the process. Very simple and quick fix.