2VED21ZKFN01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

We thought we were in need of a new seal around the door but as my husband checked the door he found out it was a piece under the door that holds it up so the door was not sealing right when it closed. I went on line. Found this site and found my fridge. My husband viewed the pics of the parts and figured out we needed a cam. I ordered my part and could not believe it came the very next day!!! I didn't even pay for anything other then regular delivery. He took off the door and it was simple to just slip on the new part and replace and put the door back on.. Nothing much to tell here. Less then 30 minutes. Thank you so much for the quick service getting it out to us. I was about to put a child lock on the door just to keep it closed..

I just popped off the broken end caps and put the new end caps on. Very easy and new parts fit perfectly and work well.

I removed the items from inside the door and removed the door from the refrigerator at the upper hinge. Removed cam from the door and replaced with the new one. Checked for proper operation and it's quiet as a mouse. I love it.

supported the door on blocks. removed old parts with a socket and ratchet. the new parts didn't line up quite right, so some modification with a dremel was necessary. otherwise, the repair was very simple.

Removed the door and replaced the lower door cam. Old lower door cam was completly stripped. Insatalled new one and door sealed again! Yay!

I installed a Ice Door Kit. It works Great Now!

removed owner applied "tape" and broken end caps from shelf.replAced end caps and snapped back into door slots. very simple operation but
the highlight was relative ease in finding parts at partselect. i was afraid given the age of refridgerator i would not be able to find replacement parts.once i found their website and described part it popped up in-stock and in several different colors. THANKS PARTSELECT!!

Unplug Dryer. Remove 2 5/16in hex screws from lower panel and remove panel.Remove 3 5/16in hex screws attaching lint duct. Remove 8 1/4in hex screws attaching blower housing. Remove 2 1/4 hex screws attaching thermostat to blower housing. Using adj. wrench on back of motor shaft nut to hold, loosen fan assy. w/ 7/8in socket. Remove 3 5/16in hex screws holding fan housing to motor mount. Remove 2 5/16in hex screws holding housing and motor mount to base floor. Push belt pulley wheel up enough to loosen belt and take off rear motor pulley. Motor w/mount can be slid out bottom for replacement [wires are layed toward front].Using 6in flat tip screw driver press down to unlock front & back motor bushing holddown clamps. Pinch electrical wire connector ends to pull off old motor. Remove and Install new motor, reversing steps. Belt replacement [suggested w/new motor] requires removal of 2 5/16in screws to lift/remove door w/front panel [disconnect door switch wires upper right rear corner].Remove 4 5/16 screws holding front bulkhead. Once bulkhead is pulled up and off, allow front end of drum to sag and rest IN PLACE [removal not required to slip old belt off and install new belt]. Note belt location point around drum. Slide new belt on. Reinstall bulkhead and panel/door [Don't forget door swich wires]. Adjust belt into position and push spring-held belt pully up to allow looping of new belt around rear motor belt pulley. Complete w/hand turning of drum to ensure belt is aligned and feeding properly. Reinstall lower fan housing/covers/thermostat,etc removed for motor installation.

The repair went very smooth, and fast. First I made sure I looked at markings for correct side. I snapped bottom in first and top snapped right in.

Removed the old ones , this was easy because the clip part of the end cap was broken off. I simply
inserted the plastic clip part if the new end cap into the slot in the door and presto it was done.
Then I replaced the other end cap the same way

supported door with blocking and removed lower
arm and cam. Replace cam and re installed arm.
removed blocking from door and tested completed installtion of cam. all went well.

We dealt with this problem for well over six months. Last week while visiting our home my mother tried to schedule a repair man to come out. Upon hearing this conversation i urged her to hang up the phone and let me fix it. This prompted me to go on line and find the three dollar part needed to fix it. With the help of a friend to lift and hold the door i unbolted the black closer piece and replaced it with the new one. This whole process took less than 10 minutes and completely fixed the problem. The service visit would have cost upwards of $80.00 so this was well worth the two days shipping i paid for.

All food and drawers were removed from the freezer, including ice tray. The left side shelf brackets were removed to ease removal of the back panels which expose the the bi-metal defrost thermostat. Six screws to remove the large back panel, plus the shelf support rails needed to be loosened to remove the smaller upper panel. The bi-metal thermostat is mechanically clipped to the upmost coil of the condenser. The two wires must be cut and wires for the new thermostat spliced in. The wires were tinned with solder to insure a good connection, then twisted and crimped with an automotive end connector. With the smaller 22. 8 Cu. Ft. Refrigerator a lot of the work will have to be performed with one hand. The hardest problem here is diagnosing the malfunction correctly in the beginning. I was impressed that the replacement part was received in two days . . .

Replaced both since they came as a set. The only way it could have been any easier is if I had the wife do it. She had the remote this time. (•¿•)

Snapped the end caps in in seconds. Thanks.