2DATW4305TQ0 Admiral Washer - Instructions

After removing the front, sides and top of the machine (all one piece) the springs were relativley easy to access. I discover one of the brakets that held one of the springs had rusted and would no longer support the spring. I then replaced the bracket and springs. I Re-assyembled the machine and it work as good as new.

This is the first time I've ever fixed anything. I had no idea what I was doing but like the rest of you I decided to man up and get er done myself! I also didn't want to spend 200-300 bucks on a repair guy. So using this site and google. I figured out how to remove the back plate of my washer so I could correctly diagnose the problem...in fact I didnt' even have too remove the back plate to diagnose it because when I started to move the washer I found several broken plastic triangular pieces and a round rubber piece with 6 triangular holes in it. On one of the broken pieces was a serial number of some sort. So I googled what i found and matched what i found on underneath my machine with a part i found on this website which turned out to be the direct drive motor coupling...i figured i was in for a rough battle with the machine but it actually turned out to be pretty easy...in fact it would've been easier had this machine not been serviced before in the past...(i'll get to that later) first step was to remove the back plate...using youtube i figured out how to remove the metal clamps that hold the cabinet to the back plate (you will need a flat head screw driver). Rest was elementary it took me about 2 minutes to remove the back plate after spending probably 30 minutes of research online (i like to make sure i'm doing everything correctly so i watch several videos and do a ton of reading before i mess with anything)*also a side note make sure you unplug the machine before you do anything! Also turn off the water and remove the draining tubes from the back of the machine because you will need to tilt the whole thing on its back failure to do this will result in a watery mess and u could kink the drain tube which will lengthen your repair time like it did with me. Also remove the hot and cold water tubes from teh back...remember that the hot water is always on the bottom memorize where you put the tubes...u can always check which is which by turning the water back on but it will save you sometime* once i got the back plate off i tilted the machine on its back so i could get to the motor and the water pump...there are 2 metal clamps that hold the water pump to the motor. All it takes is a flat head screw driver to remove these clamps once you get the 2 clamps off you can lift the water pump right off the motor its really easy. This exposes the motor which houses the direct drive motor coupling. I inspected what was left of the coupling and if there was any doubt that it was the motor coupling there wasn't anymore because it was clearly broken and the rubber piece that was supposed to sit between the 2 plastic things was gone. Needless to say it was a mess and i knew it was gonna be a challenge to remove the broken coupling. It was surprisingly easy to remove the coupling from the top of the motor compared to the middle of it. There are 2 more metal clamps that fasten the motor in place so it doesn't move around...there are 2 screws that hold these clamps in place. I removed one of them with no problem but the other one was stripped extremely bad i was completely unable to remove it. If you are in this bad boat like i was in i have a solution for you...you only need to remove one screw if you can grab the motor and rotate it enough u can remove the clamp from the metal plate without ever having to remove the clamp at all...its a little difficult and you will have to use a bit of elbow grease to do it but it can be done. Once i achieved this it was a lot easier to access the broken coupling from the middle of the motor. I took the back end of a hammer and evenly jiggled the coupling loose until it popped off...it took a solid 10 minutes tho since the coupling had shattered so bad there wasn't much for the hammer to hold onto. Once i did this i was able to get the new pieces in place...it was a little tricky to line things up correctly but after awhile i was able to get it to fit perfectly...I put the machine back

I did like the video said about the removal of the control pnl. Now removal of the of the top and front cover was a bit more of a learn as you go to remove all the hoses that go to the fabrix sofner, bleach, and detergent compartments. It was done with the aid of a pair of pliers. There was 4 lines in the top at the back left that has to be removed to finish the cover removal! Now after that it was easy. the rest was like the video. Motor and pump removal simple. I would remember to inspect the inside of the pump to remove any trash that might get wrapped on the impeller.less than hour start to finish and it was a cheap fox and better than buying a new washer!

removed the two screws from the back of the dial bar on the top of the washer. removed original unit, and install the new unit.

disconnect the electrical and tilt the machine far enough to reach under and remove hose clamp.Remove old hose and replace with new one.

New hose arrived in 2 days in excellent condition. Repair was fairly easy and fit perfectly. Did notice, however, that new hose was upgraded with a thicker part and a clamp that fit much better. Old hose cracked from repeated shaking where clamp was not tight enough and the hose at this clamp was too thin compared to the new hose. We felt it seemed obvious that the manufacturer must have had many complaints about this original hose. But thank you for your fast delivery and excellent new part.

It was my Mothers washer & did find out the Direct drive Motor Coupling was a little warn & replaced not to hard but took more time to get top off because you have to really get under the top off hood & clips where really in there the vidio showed held on with screws & on this Kenmoore Elite the Clips are under the Hood which does make it alittle bit harder so you have to be careful not to bend up the Hood where all your controls are , But did not solve the issue. Looked at lid switch & it was damaged so now going to Replace it. If this was my machine probably would be a bit easier to have seen it is the Lid switch hopefully this next part will fix the problem.

Thanks to the video, this repair went very easy and quickly, the part arrived earlier than stated, my whole experiance with PartSelect from ordering to installing was fantastic, THANK'S

Parts Select is AMAZING!! It directed us to the correct parts. Ordering was easy. But the best part was the videos. The step by step instruction was a godsend. We followed it, paused it, compared it, did it. We had to battle grease and tight quarters, but got it done. The machine works good. We spent about $65 as opposed to $400+ for a new washer. Great website.

When my 13 yr old washer stopped working the timing was not at all good to spend money on a new one. I have two of my children getting marriied within the next year and funds are tight. I decided to troubleshoot it myself online by googling my problem. I found out what I thought would be the parts I needed, I took a chance and ordered them. The bonus was the videos that you emailed me with the complete installation instructions. I am a banker and a 53 yr old woman ...not exactly a handy man. With your videos I was able to fix my washer by my self for just the cost of parts...so my wedding budget is still in place. I highly reccommend PartSelect for anyone...cause If I can do it anyone can do it! Thank you PartSelect

Unplugged washer. Used paint scrapper to pop each side of control panel loose. Used nut driver to remove grounding screw. Pulled small gray tab toward front to pop switch loosen switch and pop it out. Lowered lid about half way to ensure cover arm engaged the switch as I snapped switch into switch cut out. Tighened ground screw with nut driver and plugged washer back into wall outlet. Snapped control panel back down.

I actually thought the job of replacing the clutch was more difficult than it actually was. I simply watched the video on how to do it and it was really a task that pretty much anyone could do. The only bit of trouble I had was putting the C-shaped wire clip back on the shaft to hold the clutch in place......other than that everything else was pretty easy.....I would definately use Partselect again...

After watching some on-line vids, I determined it was the center post, or tub, gasket at the bottom. A cheap part, and easy to snap-out the old and snap-in the new - But - I had to dissassemble the washer into individual washer component molecules. Luckily, I'd done this recently to replace the clutch drive, then the motor, then this. Not too bad, really. Washer body off (2 screws and two snap-links); agitator out (7/16" socket on extension); bang off tub nut (heavy hammer and punch); bang off drive block (hammer again); and pull tub up an out. Tub drain disconnected (pliers); pull off level sensing tube; three spring mounts (nutdriver); then just yank tub up. Poke out Centerpost gasket; snap in a new one; reassemble. Piece of cake.

Followed the video that was attached to the link where i ordered my part. Seriously, could not have been easier!! Thank you so much!!

i did the repair by myself but based on the video that part repair provided me with.