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water dispensor inoperative
the system has two dual valves. 1 for water, 1 for ice maker. valve 1 feeds valve 2 via water filter. Voltage to operate both valves was present when water dispensor switch was activated. Both valves are on bottom backside of fridge in opposite corners. Problem was valve plunger was stuck. Tip: valves come apart without removing the entire assmbly. the coil or plunger can be replaced. The nice thing is water lines feeding the valves don't need to be removed if valve problem is one of the aforementioned parts. Of course make sure water supply to fridge is shut off!
Removed 4 screws holding face plate onto ice bucket. Removed the 3 screws holding the ice crusher housing. Noted postion and rotation of teh s;ring loaded ice selecting rod. Removed broken crusher housing. Reveresed process for installion. Took for test drive. Operational...
The old ice maker had stopped working properly. The cycle was inconsistent, and inlet water would run over existing cubes in the tray, before they were dumped into the dispenser box.
This was really simple, much like changing a light bulb. Two bolts loosened beneath the old unit to allow it to be lifted off and free. The power supply plug was easily disconnected. The new unit was then placed onto the loosened bolts, power supply reconnected and secured with the supplied wire tie. A small angled bracket was removed from the old and reattached to the new as a support toward the from of the unit. The cycle adjuster was backed off a 1/2 turn as per the instructions....and the next morning....new automatic ice. Life is good!
At top of refrigerator compartment, took out screws to cover (where temp control is) and to the right took out 2 screws to remove defrost timer and installed in reverse order. In freezer compartment, unscrewed back of freezer wall and took off completely. Removed old freezer thermostat, the body of freezer thermostat snapped onto coil and wire plugged in. Let run for 24 hrs, then made adjustments to temps, so far temps are back in normal range.
My fridge is over 11 years old and for probably the past few years the water coming out of the dispenser in the door was painfully slow. I tried changing the filter and making sure the debris sceens were not clogged but it didn't help. I was so frustrated I was going to buy a new $3K refrigerator. Instead I found this website, bought both valves that control the water (I didn't know which one was faulty) and replaced them both. I figured $100 repair is an easier pill to swallow than a $3k fridge.
Repair took less than 1/2hr and worked flawlessly. It was very easy, just remove the screws that hold the valves in place and swap them out.
Thanks to the great website and quick service I'm very pleased with my refrigerator and have an extra $2900 in my pocket :-)
I had already removed the ice maker by loosening the two screws with a 1/4" nut driver, in order to compare the design and style to the intended replacement for size and critical measurements. The replacement was almost identical. The wiring harness was 2-3" longer than the original, but after snaping the wire plugs together I simply curved the wire up and to the left to be out of the way. The hanging brackets are slotted and it was easiest to slip the back hanger over the head of the screw and let it slip down, then the front hanger was already to line up even though you can't see the screw with the ice maker in the way. I had to transfer an L-shaped metal bracket to the bottom side, matching the old assembly, and adjusting it to hold the bottom side away from the freezer compartment a little so it would hang level and secure. You have to snug the two screws with a screw driver or 1/4" nut driver by feel, since you can't see them with the icemaker in place. It took about 10 minutes to take out the old and another 10 to put in the new. We now have a full bin of ice, and the old plastic trays have been retired. I should have done this a year ago.
Loosen two screws, unclip electrical connection, remove ice maker, remove l shaped leveling piece of metal from old one, put on new one. Install in reverse order. Hint.. when loosening two screws, use a mirror
The evaporator coil in the freezer would cake up with ice, choking off the cold air flow into the lower refridgerator compartment. A repair man had previously replaced the defrost heater element, but this did not fix the problem.
First, unplug the refrigerator since you're working with live wires.
Remove the 4 Philips sheet metal screws holding the plastic housing that holds the temperature control to the top of the refrigerator compartment. Pull the housing down then out since there is a tube on the housing where the water flows out the back of the refrigerator during the defrost cycle.
Remove the 2 Philips screws holding the defrost timer on the plastic housing. Pull the connectors off the old timer and attach them in exactly the same positions on the new defrost timer.
Attach the new defrost timer to the plastic housing with the 2 screws.
Reinstall the plastic housing, making sure the water tube is inserted into the back of the refrigerator wall.
The plastic slides on the Upper and Lower Drawers were broken from years of abuse sliding the drawers in and out. The replacement of the plastic drawers required removing the glass front pieces using a screwdriver and gently seperating the plastic drawer from the front panel from under the assembly. The front panel easily slide out within the drawer runners. Simply slide the front on the new drawer and insert back into the refrig. That simple.
Refrigerator upper section was warm - defrost system failure
remove all freezer items and remove back panel covering the coils - about 8-10 nuts using a nut driver. The coils in my refridgerator were covered with a heavy frost - thermostat was also frozen over. Manually turn the defrost timer so the fan turns off to observe if the heating element is working (defrost timer is on the bottom front of the refrigerator on the left side). My heating element did work so I decided to replace the thermostat and defrost timer. Unplug the refrigerator. Disconnect 2 wires connecting the thermostat and unhook. Replacing with new thermostat - red and white wires that have male/female connectors and hook onto coil as before. Note that two parts with similar names were offered by PartsSelect and you really couldn't tell which was the right one - I got both but returning the unused one was very easy but cost a couple of bucks in shipping. Next, take out two screws and the bracket that holds the defrost timer in place and unplug it. Plug in the new one and screw it back in. Reinstall the back panel - throw out all that stuff in the freezer that you've had in there for 10 years and turn it back on - very simple and it worked perfectly. Very good experience with returning parts - excellent customer service.
Water in the ice bin freezing all the existing ice into clumps
You have to blindly unscrew the two screws along the side of the ice maker. Once that is done simply remove the ice maker to the side to gain access to the electrical plug. Undo the plug and remove the ice maker completely. Install the adapter on the new ice maker and install it in much the same way you removed the old. I started the (2) 1/4" screws before installing the new ice maker to make it easier to hang. Pay careful attention to the wire harness and dress it out of the way. Finally tighten the two screws and make sure the bail wire is down to begin ice making once again.
- Unsnapped old light socket from top of Frig - Disconnected elect wires - Reconnected elect wires to new light socket - Snapped new socket in place - Done in less than 2 min.
