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Water and Ice Dispenser power board failure
The symptom was a fried power board located in the freezer door behind the ice/water dispenser. Replacing the board was fairly easy. However, the new board also cooked soon thereafter. I discovered that the root cause for this failure was a failed diode Part Number 5303918287. The diode is located in the wiring near the three water solenoids in the rear (lower right) where the water enters the unit. Unless the diode is also replaced, the board will fail again. Replacement of these components is fairly easy. One trick that work well for me during re-assembly was to use a long wood screw to thread up through the water dispenser panel and into the end of the water tube, and then pull on the screw head to gently feed the tube down into the dispenser.
The radiator was not being properly defrosted and the refrigerator and freezer could not keep the temperature. Two things can be causing this, the defrost module which defrost the refrigerator on a regular basis ($110) or the thermostat ($18). I tried the thermostat since it is very easy to do (remove cover plate inside the freezer, cut wires of old thermostat, connect new thermostat by stripping wires. Presto...however the thermostat was NOT the problem. The problem was a blown timer circuit board that controls the regular defrosting. That repair was done by a technician. The board was $110, it seats inside the refrigerator in the control panel area.
Unplug turn water off Removed two screws with nut driver loosen one Disconnected three solenoid valves Disconnected four water lines Plug tubing in, tighten one flare fitting Reattach wires to solenoids Slide under loose screw, replace two screws Turn water on check for leaks plug in get a drink of water
When the ice maker is over filling, either the valve is defective or clogged, or the ice maker is at fault signaling the valve to stay open too long. My problem was the latter. I had already replaced the valve, thinking that being only 2 years old, how could the ice maker be faulty. I was wrong. Ice maker unplugs and comes out with 2 screws. A quick swap with the new ice maker and all is well. Simple
The door has nylon gear teeth that wore out and needed replaced. The ice chute came off very easy with 6 screws. I used a punch and pliers to remove the hinge pin. Then the door came off and the new one put on. Very easy. The part was ordered on Sunday and arrived on Tuesday.
Unpluged the item. Turned off the water source. Removed the card board cover. Dis-connected the water hoses. Unpluged the connetors. Matched up the colores and put it back together, very easy. Everythings was color coded.
The plastic lever of the "in door" water despenser broke off
The tray at the bottome of the "in door" unit pulls straight out. I then removed the 3 screws at the bottom, shifted the cover upwards...and removed it from the fridge door. You then have to remove the green circuit board to get at the actuator. The tricky part is the water line feed...there's not much slack at all and it's hard to get at. I ended up removing the entire assembly to put the new actuator on. When it came time to reassemble...I disconnected the 4 wire connectors (two brown, an orange, and I forget the other) so I could have enough room for my fingers to grab the water line and insert it back. The connectors were easy to reconnet w/ needle nose plyers. (make sure you diagram them before you remove...so they can be reattached correctly). Putting it back together was pretty easy. It all works...lights, buttons, etc. so I must have done it right.
I shut off the water supply and removed the 4 screws from the cardboard back revealing the water valve. I removed the 2 screws which attach the valve to the refrigerator and removed the water valve. Once out it was a snap to unplug the electrical leads and unscrewed the water lines, Insalling the new part was a matter of reversing the above procedure. Everything is color coded which made this replacement extrememly simple.
I will definitely use you guys in the future. The ordering process was great and delivery time was ultra quick! Thanks for an easy part replacement and simple install.
most importantly on the page with the necessary part..cripser support for the refrigerator--- there was a brief insructional video on how to properly dislodge the broken part and replace it with the new showing the simple tools needed. I am not handy at all but it took me all of two minutes thanks to the helpful video.
My fridge temp was warm. Freezer temp was ok, but fluctuated some.
I checked the dampener, it worked. The compressor and fan worked. I knew because my freezer was still hovering around 10 degrees. Coils were clean. Thermistor was the only thing it could be. Took all my shelves out. Removed four screws. Took the back panel off. The thermistor sits tucked in on the side. I piped it out, in clipped it. Used my multimeter to test the numbers. Numbers were off just a bit. Ordered the part. Crossed my fingers.,took less then 5 minutes to put the part in. Plugged in the fridge. It was sitting at 33 degrees in about an hour and a half. I can’t believe I fixed it. I knew NOTHING about refrigerators. For how big my fridge is, it would have cost 3,000 and up to get a new one with the same cu ft size. Instead, it cost me $44. That includes shipping. Thank you Parts Select!! Made it so easy to pick the correct part for my model fridge!
- Unsnapped old light socket from top of Frig - Disconnected elect wires - Reconnected elect wires to new light socket - Snapped new socket in place - Done in less than 2 min.
Removed the trim screw on top of the door then removed the two hinge bracket bolts. lifted the door off placed on the table. Remove the two screws on holding the bearing bracket on the bottom of the door. removed the bearing and replace with the new one. Reinstalled in reverse order.
First removed the drip tray with a firm tug, Then removed the 2 screws to remove the trim, had to remove the board to get get to the connector. (there is a clip that holds the wire tight) connected the new ribbon cable and secured it with the clip, screwed the board back in and pushed in the other end of the cable. and screwed the trim back and the drip tray. surprisingly Very easy to do.
Most of the time was spent removing frozen food and removing the plastic clip holding one of the shelves in place. Removal of bottom panel took less than a minute. Thermostat easy to find, clipped wires a the unit and removed unit. Used included wire jackets, but not white shrink wrap. This did NOT fix the problem. This was the attempt at a 'cheap' fix. My refrigerator required the 'control box' to be replaced.