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Freezer was not defrosting
Turned off fridge circuit breaker Removed all food from freezer and put in cooler. Removed shelves from freezer Removed ice maker Removed 2 hex head screws Tilted back evaporator cover and tried to unplug connection. Found connection was iced over with a huge block of ice coming from water inlet to ice maker Spent several hours trying to melt and chip away ice without damaging fridge. Finally was able to break up ice with long flat head screwdriver and hammer. Unplugged connector and was able to remove evaporator cover. Cut wires near thermostat and removed Stripped wire as needed and crimped new thermostat in place. Used heat gun and lighter to melt heat shrink. This took a long time and required a lot more heat than expected. Reconnected evaporator cover connection and reattached cover. Reinstalled ice maker Reinstalled shelves. Put food back in Turned circuit breaker back on.
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
Based on the website I decided it was most probably the defrost timer, and that was correct. I ordered it, watched the video, and two days later the part was at my door. Took the nut driver, removed 4 screws, then removed the old defrost timer, installed the new one, re-installed the whole plastic assembly with the four screws, and done!!! Couldn't have been easier.
From most posts I've read, the defrost timer was the culprit so I blindly ordered one. Easy install but did not fix the problem so I broke out the ohm meter. The only other 2 items it could be all tested good with my meter so I bypassed the defrost thermostat (per forum help...actually quite easy)and it defrosted fine, which told me I needed a new defrost thermostat. Installed fairly easy and problem gone.
Evaporator was freezing up and was running non stop
I tested the components in the refrigerator defrost function. I used digital multimeter and checked for continuity. Defrost thermostat must 32 degrees or lower.
I cut wires from bad thermostat and removed it . Stripped wires and crimped connectors on new thermostat and wires from old thermostat. Used heat gun to seal sleeves over connectors. Very helpful video from this site Thanks, you will be my go to parts supplier from now on!!!!!!!!!!!!
Freezer worked, refrigerator didn't. Ice build up on coils.
Unplugged refrigerator. Emptied freezer and removed ice maker and cover, need to unplug fan. Defrosted coils with hot water. Cut wires to thermostat as close to it ad possible to leave extra wire in case of an error. Stripped wire in new thermostat and put in shrink plastic then the wire crimp connector joining both light blue wires making sure wires were in before crimping them. Repeated with other dark blue wire. After used the heat gun to shrink the protective white tubing. The only thing i found not satisfying was tge tubing. It was too wide and too small. When i shrunk it did not cover the whole connector and was loose. I had to use a glue gun to cover both ends of each wire connector. Hope this helps other users.
Fan motor in the freezer was not working. The freezer was still cool enough to keep the food froozen, but the refrigerator was not keeping the food cool and the liquids were getting warmer than normal.
Very easy process. Watch the YouTube video, it goes step by step for the repair. The part was $33, shipping was $6. Take your time and fix it yourself or pay $500 for a new refrigerator.
removed the back panel of the freezer and unplugged the connector for the Motor. Removed the air diffuser, then removed the fan blade. Removed the 2 screws holding the motor to the bracket. Disconnected the old wire harness and installed the new one. Put the fan blade onto the new motor and installed the motor onto the bracket. Put the air diffuser back on, plugged the motor back in and fastened the back panel. Plugged the refrigerator into the outlet and tested, OK!
A little research told me the hum plus no cooling was either the compressor or the relay. I ordered the new relay and put it in but it didn't fix the problem. I ended up having to buy a new fridge, but it was worth the $30 gamble to see if I could fix it on the cheap and it saved me the money a service call would've cost. Pretty easy installation, just in a tight space on my model.
Fridge would not cool at all, because the compressor was not running. Fan running, lights working, just no cool.
Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.
Installation was fairly straight forward. The major complaint is that the problem returned 2 weeks later. I don’t know if I care to re-invest in another switch. Now what?
