Removed the back panel in freezer compartment with the nut-driver. Then I cut off old thermostat connections, and spliced in new thermostat connections (repairman had already replaced defrost timer, and said not to trust connectors included on wires-they failed often). Then I snapped thermostat itself onto cooler coil. So far so good, fridge is running at 35-40 degrees a week later. Thanks Parts-Select!!!
Cooling coils would ice up and fridge would warm up
I removed the shelves in the freezer, took out the five 1/4" screws and lifted off the cover. It was a simple matter of using a blow drier to remove all the ice, then unplugging the two wires and unclipping the thermostat from the upper cooling tube. Then clipped the new one on and reconnecting the two wires.
My Freezer Was Frosting Up, My Ice Maker Was Not Working ,And My Fridge Was Warm.
Had to remove all screws on rear back cover of freezer inside, unplugged refridgerator, uncliped thermostat, unpluged thermostat. Replaced thermostat with new one in the same location, and let defrost fulley. Reassembled, pluged in, and tested. All was good. But I did also replace timer at first part of the repair so I suggest you replace both at the same time.
removed the screws/nuts; pulled the back panel off, removed the old thermostat (wires just popped apart) replaced the new thermostat (wires just popped back on) replaced the back panel and the nuts and TaDa!!
Controller showed signs of the plastic housing had melted.
I paid attention to how the old part came off. You need a small (very small) flat bladed screwdriver to release the two wires that plug into the controller. I checked that it was a bit difficult but it would had been easier if I could have found a screwdriver sooner.
Compressor Stopped Running. Fan and lights still working.
1. Ensure that the power is completely removed from the freezer. 2. Using needle-nose pliers and a screw driver, remove the wire retainer holding the controller assembly to the compressor and remove the controller assembly by pulling away from the compressor. 3. Cut the two wires from the existing controller assembly and strip the ends about a quarter of an inch. 4. Slide the heat shrink tubing over the wires of the connector provided with the controller kit. 5. Use the Blue Barrel connectors provided with the controller kit to connect the controller wires provided in the kit to the existing wires of the freezer. **Ensure that they are well crimped. 6. Using a heat gun, shrink the tubing to fit over the connector and wires. **Be careful not to overheat. 7. Plug the connector into the new controller provided in the kit. 8. Plug the controller assembly back into the socket on the compressor. 9. Reattach the wire retainer securely to hold the controller assembly to the compressor. 10. Plug in the freezer and adjust the thermostat so that the compressor energizes. If the controller was the issue your freezer should begin to cool.
freezer section remove ice trays ,shelves,unplug ice tray.use 1/4 nut driver remove back panel,use hair dryer thaw ice from evap coil ,unplug tstat remove install new one.plug in ice maker,put back panel back on ,ice maker and shelves plug refridgerator back in
Loosened the screws all around the door. easier if you take the door off the unit and lay it on a table. Cover the table with a blanket to protect the door finish. Old gasket just pulls loose. Press the raised bead on the new gasket under the plastic strip. Corners were the most difficult. Retighten the the screws and rehang the door. It took some practice to get the bead under the plastic strip.
This did not fix the problem. Call a repairman and he cannot come until 9/11. Food is staying frozen. Alarm sounds for awhile and then shuts off for a bit.
The freezer was too warm. The fan was running: the diagnosis tool did not work!
I used the tool at Partselect that in theory allows diagnostic of the problem to be repaired. The result was that more tan 90% of the time with the introduced symptoms it had to be the thermostat. I order the part, got it quickly and installed. It did not fix the problem. So, be careful with the diagnostic tool, because it is just based on what most people buy when they have a particular problem. Videos for installation are great. If diagnosis was better, this would be fantastic. In my case there might be a different problem.
Refrigerator = Circulator Fan Motor Made A Real Loud Noise !!
Remove All Interior Metal On Inside Of Upper Part Of Fridge, Then Remove Fan & Brackets. There Was A Total Of 6 Screws & 4 Electrical Wires That I Had To Remove To Have This Fan Ready To Replace. Then I Ordered A New Fan From This Excellent Online Appliance Part Select Ware House. And From There It Was Delivered To Pine Shadows MHC In Cottonwood, AZ Northern Arizona Largest Mobile Home Community In This Beautiful Verde Valley Desert. Where We Have Sunshine Every Day Of The Year. And I Thank You For The Prompt Response That Your Ware House Performed That Evening. From Yours Truly Jeff
