1CWED5300VW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

For the door switch: I watched the supplied video first. Unplugged the dryer from the electrical outlet. Lifted lid to lint filter and removed 2 screws. Then wedged a putty scraper between the top lid and the front of the dryer, about an inch from each edge and pushed the scraper in and then up to loosen the catch. Did this on both ends. Lifted the lid and then opened the dryer door and removed 2 scews to the door switch. Then I pried off the plug from the door switch. There is a small tab in the center on each side you have to press down to get the plug apart. I installed the new door switch by pushing the two plug ends together and then put the door switch in the opening where the old one was and screwed it back on. I closed the lid and screwed the 2 screws back in by the lint filter opening. For the Push to Start Switch: I removed the top rear cover with the 1/4 nut driver. Pulled off the knob on the front side of the dryer. Pushed down on the tab that was at the top of the switch housing from the inside of the dryer and then had to turn it a little so it would fit thru the opening. Then I unplugged it and got the new switch and plugged it together and inserted it in the opening and turned it about a quarter turn and pressed it in a little until the tab was secured. Put the knob back on and then screwed the back cover back on. Good to go. Works like a charm. Was very easy to repair and I am a woman, so now anyone can do it. :)

Removed top and front of dryer. Removed drum. Removed old rollers from spindles. Installed new rollers and new retainer triangles. Replaced drum. Re-installed front and top.

I made it very difficult. I didn't research the repair. My back is old. It's easier if you just You Tube a video. The top roller you have to take drum completely out. The bottom one, The one that failed for me, you can actually do it without taking anything apart. Access it at bottom back, two holes. I do not have small hands, it would have been easier. Channel Locks inside, 9/16th socket outside. That will loosen main axle. Then use short screwdriver or socket driver on small bracket connected to bottom of unit. Mine had one screw holding it in. Easy bottom fix. I don't really recommend replacing top till it needs it. You can only buy them by the pair too. You will be ready when time comes. I found top roller didn't actually need replacing, did it cause I had it all apart. Don't fix if not broke, right? Trust, BUT, Verify. Smaller hands, would have helped me. All I got.

I removed about 10 screws to take the back cover plate off the dryer. It was very obvious where the heating element was; and, it only took the removal of two screws to remove the heating element for inspection. It was obvious that the coiled wires of the heating element were blackened and no longer able to do the job of providing enough heat to dry our clothes. I went on line and ordered the repair part from partselect.com about 3;30 P.M. on a Friday afternoon. I was really amazed to receive the needed repair part the very next day at about 1:45 P.M.---only about 22 hours after placing the order. I had the new part in and the dryer working less than 24 hours after ordering the repair part. This is the fastest service I have ever received from anything I have ever ordered. I used the cheapest delivery method---not the expensive overnight delivery service and still got my part in less than 24 hours. Three cheers for great service from partselect.com!

First I watched Partselect's wonderful videos on what could cause the dryer from having to use multiple cycles to dry and the parts involved. I then took the back of the dryer off and tested all three parts with a multi-meter to determine which part had no resistance. The thermal fuse did not register any thing, so I ordered the part and a few days later put it in. The dryer dries in just one cycle saving on the cost of repair and electric bill. Partselect.com is my first go to sight for any repair. They make it so simple and comprehensive that any one can do the repair. I then used duct tape to make a secure connection to the duct pipe in order for it to properly vent to the outside.

Previously I had repaired two washing machines and now a dryer, which is why my mom nick named me Josephine. So ladies you can make the repairs as well.

Followed the directions on the web site. made a hook out of a wire hanger to hold the drum in place (hook from the back frame to the front of the drum) while I set the belt tensioner in place. removed the hook and the rest was easy.Works Great!!! like a new machine.

The repair was easy enough with videos from PartSelect and the internet. The fusible link was the culprit and Whirlpool recommended replacing the thermostats at the same time. It took me less than 15 minutes to replace everything. Turn off the circuit breakers, unplug the dryer and you should be able to make the repair without worry. I used a nutdriver, needlenose pliers and screwdrivers and replaced everything one at a time, one wire at a time. It was easy. I actually spent more time vacuuming out the lint deposits and cleaning out the ducts than I did doing the repair. Thanks PartSelect for saving me hundreds of dollars!

I watched the PartSelect video once before the part arrived. Had the part replaced in under 15 minutes. Very quick and easy.

Removed rear access panel screws, disconnected the 2 wires on the upper thermostat, removed 2 screws holding upper thermostat in place and installed the new one. Heating element was held in by 4 screws. I removed these and while the element was out, I replaced the lower thermostat. Installing the new jumper was tricky. This was simply due to the small area of the laundry room. The jumper wire itself was simple.

I took off top of drier completely making sure to photograph wiring diagram for timer, then removed front. Laying drier on it's back, I could then install new belt and tensioner without needing a second pair of hands. I tried using bungee cord but found it easier for me to lay drier on its back. I completely vacuumed all areas including back of drier. I found the retainer clips for front of drier to be bent, so I straightened them. I also installed two sheet metal screws in case one of the retainers failed.

Remove the exhaust tubing connection and the back panel (five nut screws). Locate the fuse; it is just to the right of the lint trap shoot, midway between the top and bottom of the back panel area. Replacement is visually intuitive.

Went to YouTube It was real easy.

I ordered the part, watched the video and made the repair in less than thirty minutes. This was much cheaper than purchasing a new dryer.

Took the back cover off the dryer and replaced the heating element with the new one put the back on connected the vent hose and done . Have smiles now, saved money.

Pull off the front panel of the dryer, and replaced the thermal fuse. Very easy. Plus, vacuumed out the whole inside of the dryer, the rear and the tube running from the dryer to the outside. Will be doing this at least every 3 months to be safe. You would be surprised at how much lint builds up inside the machine. Eve though we clean the filter trap after every use of a load of clothes.