1CLSQ9549PG1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

After watching the repair video by partselect.com I followed the directions exactly. It turned out to be a piece of cake. I found out that partselect.com has many, many do it your self repair videos on youtube.com. I intend to use them for future repairs. Thank you partselect.com.

Determined based on some Internet searches that the part that we needed was the motor coupling; washer would not spin or agitate. Once I figured out how to removed the cover (by the way, one of the guys at an appliance store told me how to do it), and reviewing the video on your website, I removed the two screws and four clips, dropped the motor, inserted the parts and put it back together - all in about 15 or 20 minutes. It was easy and clean and the washer worked again. Hopefully go for another 5-10 years. Thanks.

went to you tube and watched a video on how to take it apart and replace the clutch assembly.

Remove protective cover and inner seal with gasket from top of agitator. Use socket set with extension to reach bolt in bottom of agitator and loosen bolt. Remove assembly from washer. Take out interior disk and remove broken agitator directional cogs. Replace with new directional cogs. Reassemble parts in reverse order. Easy Peasy,took about 5 minutes.

Popped top cap off agitator, removed bolt, removed top agitator, replaced directional cogs, reinstalled top agitator, bolt, cap. This machine is 43 years young, it's happy again.

Used pliers to help disconnect hoses, unplugged power cord, laid washer on its back, unsnapped two clips holding pump to the motor, lifted pump off, and replaced it.

Popped agitator cap. Used ratchet to remove screw. Pulled off base unit. Inserted cogs into slots after removing worn and or broken cogs. Reinstalled......done!

Took out the fabric softener dispenser. Unbolted the 7/16 bolt and then pulled the agitator unit out. Separated the top and bottom agitator units and knocked out the agitator cam kit. Reinstalled the new cam kit, put the top of the agitator on the bottom unit and reinstalled the whole unit. I then bolted it back in and put the agitator cap on and the fabric softener dispenser on and now the wife is happy again.

I took the Agitator Cap Barrier out of the Top part of the agitator and than screw that holds the 2 parts together. I removed the part that holds the Cogs. I replace the Directional Cogs (dogs) into the holder, replaced the holder into the top agitator, replace the screw, put the new Agitator Cap Barrier in and it now works as good as new!! It took me 3 minutes tops!

After removing the outer shell of the machine, and disconnecting the supply hoses, I leaned the machine on it's back and disconnected the drain line. Then, it was simply a matter of removing and replacing the damaged pump with the new one. The pump is held in place by two easily removable clips. The hardest part of the whole process was making sure the shaft from the motor lines up with the corresponding hole on the pump.

Followed instructions on WEB site, they were very easy.

Found some youtube videos that explained it well. Pop off fabric softener dispenser - it pops right off - no tools required. Look down the middle of the agitator and pull off round plastic piece - it has a couple of handles on it. Use socket nut to remove the bolt that holds 2 piece agitator to motor shaft. Slide off 2 piece agitator. Put on floor. Gently hold down agitator w/ your feet, don't stand on it but hold it down w/ your toes. Pull off top of agitator. This is when you will have access to the old cam kit which slides right off. Remove old thrust spacer. Replace w. new thrust spacer, attach new cam kit - it snaps into place. place top of agitator on bottom of agitator. Place the entire assemble back in the washer. Retighten bolt. Replace plastic cap. Pop Fabric dispenser back in place.

watched the video piece of cake good job guys

So, the instructional video was great but be warned that you REALLY need to hammer the part into place. Basically hammer it into place so that the end of the shaft that it goes on is flush with the plastic piece of the coupler on both ends. Otherwise, you'll put the washer together and run a load and it'll squeal and smell like burning rubber. We had to take it apart like 3 times before we got it on there securely enough. We would then run an empty load and it would be fine but as soon as we would add clothes the squealing and burning would ensure. So, my advice is to hammer it in well and save yourself the time and struggle!

With no broke springs I thought that they might be weak so I ordered them but didn't install them as I found that the basket had a drag at one point of turning it, so I took it down to the clutch and found the nylon arm that released the brake had the small pins broken off. This would cause the brake to not release full enough that the eccentricity in it had a drag spot during the spin causing tremendous vibration. To disassemble I took the transmission off and the basket off and install new clutch assembly with the basket laying horizontal on a table. I did notice that the new clutch only had three pads on the band and the old one had six. I called you back with no satisfaction, but was given the phone # of the manufacturer and they confirmed that theirs had six pads but the part # checked out so I installed it. It now sits basically still during a cycle. I made and supervised the making of parts in a machine shop all my working carrier and I don't understand the weak link of the nylon pins milled / molded on a part that takes a lick from the actuator every cycle. It appears to me it was made to break, but it is about 20 years old. Thanks for your video help on the tube. Fred