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Dryer wouldn't turn on b/c door switch broken
It was simple once I figured out what to do:). I removed the 2 screws on the top of the dryer... they were a bit hard to find. Even with the other descriptions on this site. I was removing things I didn't need to. The 2 screws you need to remove are under the LINT COLLECTOR LID. Remove those 2 screws & lift the lid... it will be tight at first. the front of the lid has 2 "catches" in the corners.
The hardest part was getting the door switch assembly to "unplug". We pried it off -- eventually -- & then simply plugged in the new one.
Saved me LOTS of money & was worth the 30 minutes - 1 hour of work.
As I said previously, once you realize how to get the lid up & manage to pry off the plug, that's all there is to it -- easy!
I first disconnected the power. Then, I took off the back panel with about 8-10 screws. There were a couple of screws that held the heating element in place, which I removed. Then, I disconnected the heating element. The heating element was toward the bottom right hand side and was easily accessible. The connections to the heating element were a little bit tough to disconnect but not too bad. I had to use a flat head screw driver to kind of pry them off but looking back I think some needlenose pliers would have worked better. I then removed the bad heating element and plugged in the new one. I replaced all the screws and turned the dryer back on. It blew hot air again and all was well. I am not very mechanical and it was all pretty easy.
It was taking alomost twice as long for a load of clothes to dry.
First I had to take the back cover off. I removed the heating element and the thermostat and replaced them with the new repairs. It was relatively simple---any handiman could do it and would not require a repairman. We talked to a salesman at Sears to see what they thought the problem could be and then got on the internet. The best part was that the repairs came within a few days of placing my order. That was super!!! Thank you for your fast response.
took a couple differant parts to fix the dryer. i ordered one part at a time. i was expecting to wait the 5 days for shipping but i got home from work the next day of odering parts and they were there waiting for me on my doorstep. all three times i ordered. this website is the best site to order parts. i wont go to another website or store if i need to order parts for appliances. u guys have my business for life. thumbs up.
When my dryer suddenly stopped functioning, without any prior signs of pending failure, I guessed that it had to be something simple, like a fuse. I did a google search and stumbled across a forum post that described the symptoms (wouldn't turn on), and the poster said that Whirlpool recommends replacing the thermostat whenever the fuse is replaced. The reason for this is that the likely cause of the fuse burning is that the thermostat is no longer properly regulating the temperature range of the heating element.
I disconnected the power source, and then I removed the back cover, and both parts were in plain view, so I simply replaced the wires one by one.
I can't believe I waited so long to find this part and do this. I got the package very fast, opened it, took the piece to my dryer and popped it into place with my fingers. It worked perfectly! this took all of two minutes and saved me from having to hold the dryer door closed with a stick. Thank you, thank you!!!
I spent nearly an hour trying to self-diagnose the problem before I wised up and found PartSelect.com. After reading just a couple of postings I went back and tested the thermal fuse. It was bad. Other posts suggested I replace the thermostat at the same time, so I ordered both. The parts arrived within three days and the actual repair took less than 10 minutes.
unpluged the dryer, removed the back panel, I examined the heating coil, it seemed unbroken, so I used a amp meter to test the various sensors. Found the upper thermal sensor was bad, looked up the part and ordered it, had to get the thermal cut off kit to get the sensor I needed. Installed it no problem, put the back back on, and it worked great.
First, I replaced the heating element which was super easy but I still didn't have heat - frustrating! I then ordered the thermal cut-off kit and thermal fuse. I replaced the thermal fuse and still no heat. Then, I took one of the fuses from the kit and replaced that and finally got heat. There was another fuse in this kit that I still don't know where it goes but right now I don't need it. Had I known (by a volt tester) this would have been super easy to fix, but I didn't have one so it was trial and error. I did find out, however, that if the heating element goes it usually takes the fuse with it. The fuse I replaced (that finally gave me heat) was located in the casing just above the element. I hope this helps!
My wife had been complaing about excessive noise from our 25 year old dryer so after DISCONNECTING the dryer from the wall outlet I popped the top panel loose @ the front with a screw driver @ each front corner @ took a look. No cause was visible so I removed the rear cover & still nothing so I laid the dryer on it's back to remove the front cover. First the 2 wires to the door switch were disconnected then the 2 screws @ the top corners that hold the front panel to the side panels were removed. The front panel then slid up & lifted off exposing the front of the drum, belt & support pulleys. Upon inspection I found the bottom support pulley sleeve bearing to have worn out. Both pulleys were replaced because they only come as a pair now along with the tensioner pulley (idler pulley), the belt & the rear lip seal on the drum since it had a 4" section missing from the edge @ one point (all of these were the original components). Replacing the rear drum seal took the most time because the old adhesive had to be removed. I did this first so the glue could set while I installed the new pulleys & belt. By the time they were installed, the glue had set enough & I could continue the re-assembly. We now have a 25 year old dryer that sounds like it's new & @ a fraction of the cost
After realizing that my dryer was no longer heating, I took off the back and examined the heating element. I saw that a coil was broken and knew that it needed replaced. When the part came in, I basically changed out the wires that were plugged into the old element on to the new one, replaced the screws in the heating element housing and back panel, plugged in the dryer and was back in business! Oh, by the way...I am a 49 year old WOMAN!!!!
When I opened my dryer door while it was running, the drum continued to turn and the light would not come on.
First unplug your dryer. Then, I removed the two screws on the lint trap leaving the lint trap in place--do not pull out the lint trap--only remove the two screws. Next, slide the top of the dryer slightly forward in order to release the top of the dryer. I did this with my hands. Once the top of the dryer is released, raise the top of the dryer and unplug the door switch assembly. Then, remove the two screws that hold the switch. These two screws were located on the front panel of my dryer and are visible when you open the dryer door. Remove the old switch and install the new switch by putting the two screws you previously took out from the old switch back in place and plug in the new switch. Lower the dryer top. Push the top back to lock in place. Line up the lint trap holes for the two screws that hold it in place and replace those screws. Plug your dryer back in and it should work properly. Very easy repair. We ordered our part one morning before noon, and it was here the next afternoon with regular shipping. GREAT SERVICE.
1. Removed the screws from the lint catcher 2. Removed the bolts from upper rear of dryer 3. Pried off the dryer top from the front (it rests on rear hinges) 4. Disconnected dryer door wiring 5. Removed bolt from inside upper front corners; removed front panel (be careful: the edges are sharp and the tumbler will fall when it loses support) 6. Removed broken belt and lint from interior parts; removed tensioner (which had fallen out of place). Note: The newer models have a tensioner pulley; my older model had a smooth semicircle that was confusing at first glance 7. Flipped dryer onto its back (for easier reinsertion of new belt and tumbler) 8. Placed new belt on tumbler; reinserted tumbler 9. Inserted new belt through tensioner, inserted tensioner "legs" into grooves on floor. Note: The belt will pull the tensioner upright when it's inserted properly (which isn't obvious at first) 10. Made sure belt and tumbler seal were properly installed 11. Replaced parts in reverse order The process took over an hour because I couldn't figure out how to insert the belt through the tensioner. The trick is to insert the folded belt through the tensioner and onto the motor pulley. If I had to do it again, it would take about 30 minutes (including cleaning lint)
This repair was a cinch. Pliers to pull out the metal piece and a screwdriver to pry out the 'catch' part in the door. Both replacement pieces went right in. I cannot believe how easy and CHEAP this fix was, and I'm so glad I found this site!! I figured I would have to call a repairman and pay big bucks, so I put it off, but the door was getting worse--slamming it so hard to keep it shut. Again, thanks for this great site.
after watching many videos on my problem and finding Partselect i read about others with same type issues and i decided to attempt my own repair.the first thing i did was go to home depot and buy a ohm meter around $10 then started testing all switches etc.first unplug the dryer then removed the rear panal and tested all circuits.my heating element tested bad so i removed it following the instructions from partselect taking about 5min.my heating element was broken.its funny but my dryer kept on running continually when it stopped heating,but the timer would move to the very end and just not quit.after reading on partselect i determined that my resistor not my timer was the problem.so i ordered the resistor without testing it first from partselect.turns out it was the problem now my dryer heats up fine and goes off like its supose to.i do advise to test things first like i should have but i just got lucky on the resistor.partselect is the only place i will buy from they are fast getting your part to you 2 days for me,and very cost effective.i spent around $84 including the cost of a ohm meter to repair my dryer which is 18 years old.beats the cost of replacing the dryer which i think many will agree.good luck on your repair hope this helped it was my first time ever repairing any home appliance.