11082822101 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I removed all of the screws on the inside of the door. Unfortunately, I found out that I only needed to remove four of the screws after the glass fell out of the door. After re-installing the glass and removing the correct four screrws, I figured out that I had to pry off the plastic face plate to get to the two screws that held on the handle. After removing these screws, I was able to get the broken handle out and the new handle in. I then reinstalled the plastic face plate and replaced the four screws that held it in place.

I saw some videos suggesting you remove the back panel.Then I saw a video where only the kick plate was removed and the element was removed that way.
I removed both the back panel and kick plate.At first I thought I was wasting my time however once I got started I was glad I removed both back and front.
There was a significant amount of lint in the bottom of the dryer which made it easier to remove.
It also made it easier to remove the heater element.
I hope this helps.

On this model do not try to remove the back. You must remove the bottom front panel and the lint screen unit. You can then loosen the heat coil assembly and rotate it to get to the high-limit thermostat and the thermal unit. I replaced both because I bought the kit. It actually took me longer to clean out lint than it did to replace the parts. A simple remove of the parts with a 1/4 inch nut driver did the trick. Now my dryer works fine.

Disconnected Power cord, removed vent pipe, removed back panel, had to slide top cover off to remove additional screw holding back on. Went down to where the Idler Pulley was, removed old piece by depressing on the spring loaded actuator and slid it off the belt and all. Replaced same as removal.

Replaced the heating element. Took the front lower panel off, 2 screws one on each end, removed cover on left side over blower 3 screws and removed cover lower right side over heating element 2 screws. Removed 6 wires plugged into heating element cover, turned heater element cover counter clockwise and pulled out. Removed 1 screw holding heating element inside of cover, pulled out heating element. Replaced heating element back in cover putting screw back in to hold it. Put heating element and cover into hole in back of dryer turning clockwise to secure. Then put cover holding heating element over the front of it and secured with 2 screws. Put blower cover back secured with the 3 screws and put the front cover back on securing with 2 screws. dryer is heating better than ever.

The repair was done by following the instructions on this website. I'm a 68 yr old female who has surprised myself by finding the part I needed, ordering it and did the repair all by myself. My son was at the house and said he would do it for me and I told him I wanted to try myself first and if I needed assistance I would let him know. He showed me where the Phillips screw drivers were and chose the correct size and then proceeded to take off the 4 small Phillips screws on the door and the 2 at the bottom of the door under the window area. Then I removed the panel and the broken handle and replaced with the new one. Then put the panel back on the door, screwed the 6 screws back where they belonged and the job was completed. I was so excited that I actually did the repair but best of all my son was proud of me for even attempting the project.

Simply followed the video that accompanied the part confirmation. Removed the top and front of the dryer. Removed the drum and belt. Unbolted (1 bolt) the Idler pulley and bracket and bolted on the new one. Reversed the sequence of disassembly and tried it out. The only minor difficulty was slipping the belt over the idler pulley after the drum was in place. This is where a second set of hands might be helpful to hold up the drum, while the other person puts the belt in place. Other than that, this was a simple repair and probably saved a couple hundred dollars for about 1.5 hours of my time. Thanks for the video...it was right on point, and made the job much easier.

I removed the bottom access panel, with 2 hands i reached in behind the blower, i released the belt, i used a screwdriver to pop the retainer from the pully spindle, i removed and replaced the pully, i snapped the retainer back on and replaced the belt. I made sure the belt was on track and all was good. I put the bottom panel back on, it took all of 5 minutes. The hardest part was the retainer clip faces the rear of the dryer so you have to feel it. Also , the space is tight, use a smaller flathead screwdriver to get behind the clip, it will pop right off.

I Googled a description of the repair, found a forum entry from another 'do-it-yourselfer'. They had posted instructions on which 8 screws needed to be removed. I followed the instructions and within 15 minutes, I was done.

take off front bottom panel. use ohm tester on the heater coil element, (It had broken in back) remove screw holding it in place and the two red wires leading to the element. Pull out and replace. reinstall in reverse. Done

After turning off the power to the dryer I removed two screws to the bottom front panel and droped it out of the way. I remved three screws hloding the lint screen in place just for better axcess to the element. I then removed the two wires attached to the element and then the two screws holding the element in place. I put everything back together in reverse. I also took the time to clean any dust and lint out.

Took the back and top off of my front loader. I had checked on you tube for the problem and how to fix it and ordered the part. Just followed the directions on how to remove the old idle pulley and installing the new one. Dryer runs like new!

Ezee pezee lemon squeezee.

I referred to the dryers tech sheet for troubleshooting. The start switch was found bad. However, all other connection looked good and control module board appeared ok until I removed it from the machine. Found bottom of board, directly under the motor relay, scorched and burnt. All other components checked out ok. A new $300.00 board would be needed to fix the problem. Not worth fixing a 10yr. old machine! New dryer on order. Sometimes you just can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear! I returned the start switch that took over 8 days receive it. Lesson learned; electronic control boards have two sides. Always visually inspect both sides. It will save you alot of wasted troubleshooting time.

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.