11076002011 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

unscrew the old part, slip it out, slip in the new part and replace the screws

Un plug the Elect. The two screws that hold the lent screen in place and the top. I took them out and I used a putty knife to open the top of the dry. un plug the switch And take out the two screws under the switch. That was all too it. Just like the instructor said .

Step 1: remove new latch from bag in which part comes. Step 2: push latch into hole where the other latch was. Step 3: enjoy having a dryer you dont have to hold closed with a folding chair.

Removed the top panel of the dryer via a couple of screws from the rear. Remove the rear panel swing it open light a door to the right, minding the electrical connections. Removed the belt from the pulley, removed the Tri-ring from the shaft and slid the pulley off of the shaft. The shaft was slightly rusted so I used a steel brush and brake cleaner to clean it up, placed the new gasket, pulley, and tri-ring on, replaced the belt, and put the panels back into place. As the dryer is about 7 years old, also removed the front lower panel and cleaned out unit which had quite a bit of accumulated dust and glitter especially in the vent lines. (3 girls live here). Pretty easy, most screws remove with just the one tool.

Could not be any easier. For less than $20 and 15 minutes time, I couldnt be happier.
All that was needed is a nutdriver to remove a 1/2 dozen screws to take the back panel off. Then a phillips screw driver to remove the thermal fuse. Unplug 2 wires and then attach them to the new fuse. Put it all back together and done!. Working dryer.
PS: I had enough gas line and ducting connected to the dryer ,so thatt I was able to get behind it with out removing them. This may have taken another 15 min. if I needed to do this and two adjustable wrenches.

The video instructions here were exact and very clear. I replaced the door switch but that did not fix the issue. I used the instant repair man tool and found that the next most likely part to have an issue was a the thermal fuse. After replacing that part which took 10 minutes... It works! My part was shipped to my home very very quickly. totally worth it.

I checked the thermal fuse for continuity and had none.ordered part arrived next day. I took a picture with phone to idenify wires. installed in a short time.dryer works like new

Followed instructions on the installation video you had on line. Really easy and fixed the problem.

remove&replace

I followed the video. Removed two screws by the lint filter, lifted up the 2 sides to the top of the dyer, removed the two screws by the door switch. It was that easy. The hard part came when I tried to remove the old switch that took the most time. I used the butter knife, since it was very flat I was able to lift it off. Put in the new switch, put all the parts back together again and it worked just fine. Thank you, PartSelect, I will come to you first. You saved me at least $150.00....

To make sure the dryer didn't die catastrophically, I checked to make sure the timer, the light, and the push to start start switch and the door switch were still working. After they were diagnosed to be working properly, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it back from the wall so I would have enough room to work behind it. The first item you will need is the wiring diagram. If you do not have one, one can be obtained online by using your dryer brand and model number. The next thing you will need is a quality digital multimeter that measures resistance or continuity. The last thing you will need is a 1/4" nutdriver. The first thing you will need to do is remove the exhaust tube from the back of the dryer. The second step is to remove a small black plate located near a green ground screw. The 3rd step is to remove the large black cover on the back of the dryer. Once this is removed, you will need to locate the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is a small component that has 2 blue wires connected to it. It is located on the housing where the steam from your clothes leads to the exhaust port. The first thing you need to do is disconnect the 2 blue wires. Once the wires are disconnected, set the multimeter to resistance. The unit of resistance is ohms and the greek letter omega is used. The red lead of your multimeter goes one metal tabe of the fuse and the black lead goes on the other one. If the multimeter measures 0. L ohms, then the fuse is bad and needs to be replaced. If the multimeter reads 00.00 ohms then the fuse is good and you have another problem. I hope these instructions were useful.

I watched the guy repair it on the video provided when i searched for the part. He made it look very easy and he explained it step by step. I ordered the part from partselect.com and 12 hours later i had the part in my hand and proceeded to replace it. Instructions and delivery were amazing. Thanks to all at partselect!!!

Followed the youtube video and it was very helpful. The repair was very simple. Just remove the lint trap, then the two screws under there, then use the putty knife to pop the two front corner clips. Disconnect power before you do anything of course..... once its all disconnected, you will see the switch. 2 Screws hold it in and then it unclips. Reverse to reassemble.

Initially confused by instructions provided in that it stated to loosen a brass coupler. Disconnected power. Removed front bottom panel. Disconnected both leads to ingiter. Removed the 2 screws holding igniter bracket in place. Carefully slid igniter and bracket forward and removed from dryer. Removed screw holding ingiter and replaced with new. Reinstalled in reverse.

I watched to replacement video from the website and followed. I did use the tip of a small knife to get the connector to come loose on the old switch. It was a really easy repair.